Fuseta or Fuzeta, a place worth visiting at the Algarve, Portugal
Finding an excellent place to go at a reasonable price in the Algarve requires little effort. You need to steer clear of the most touristic destinations and consider Fuseta.
Fuseta, alternatively spelled Fuzeta, remains a forgotten gem in Algarve travel plans, but it shouldn’t be overlooked.
The village offers more than the typical beach destination experience.
Fuseta, alternatively spelled Fuzeta
Nestled as a small fishing village by the sea, or more precisely, by the sea-river Formosa, it presents a unique blend of beach and marsh landscapes teeming with biodiversity.
Armona’s sand island is opposite the Ria Formosa (1), boasting expansive beaches with minimal crowds.
While Armona Island’s allure is undeniable due to its beauty, the need to take a ferry across the “ria” deters many potential tourists from visiting Fuseta.
Fuseta, the village itself
The village itself isn’t the most exciting destination to visit.
One can imagine that the village evolved from a fishing village due to the rising demand for summer houses.
However, this development occurred without adequate architectural supervision from local authorities—or at least, not enough supervision.
Consequently, the village is filled with old buildings that have potential interest but fail to live up to it.
Instead, what one finds are numerous aluminum doors and windows, houses that appear out of sync with the surroundings, and so on.
Nevertheless, the positive aspect of this situation is that the natural setting outside the village compensates for these shortcomings and offers much more.
Moinho das Marés lodging at Fuseta, Portugal
Moinho das Marés lodging
I recommend staying at “Moinho das Marés,” (2) an old tide mill beautifully converted into summer lodging.
By staying here, you gain access to an area where a colony of flamingos resides for most of the year.
You can easily approach flamingos to capture photographs, even without expensive nature or bird photography equipment.
In addition to flamingos, the area hosts various other bird species, although I’m not an expert on identifying them.
The lodging itself is charming, simple, functional, and impeccably clean, meeting more than just your basic needs.
Both the wifi and air conditioning function well, and outside, you’ll find chairs and a table for relaxation, although I primarily used them for writing in the early morning.
This is a highly private location with only 3 or 4 bedrooms, along with a delightful restaurant and bar, all within an enclosed area.
If you’re passionate about photography, this place is a must-visit.
As the surroundings are water-rich, mosquitoes can be bothersome, but the rooms are equipped with mosquito nets on the windows for your safety.
Simply carry insect repellent when venturing outside, especially during sunset, and you’ll be fine.
Flamingos at Fuseta, Portugal
An advertisement or a genuine review?
Although this may read like an advertisement, it genuinely reflects my experiences each time I’ve stayed here.
I’ve never received a single free night, nor am I receiving any compensation for this endorsement.
In summary, it’s a truly beautiful place to stay.
If you’re interested in experiencing this adventure or any other from my repertoire, feel free to contact me via my travel agency, Iberactive.
Enjoy your time,
David Monteiro
(1) A “ria” is akin to a river (known as “rio” in Portuguese), yet it is characterized by water flowing from the sea. Sea-river.
(2) Moinho das Marés: the translation for “moinho de maré” is tide mill.
How to divide the time to spend nine days visiting the Azores Islands?
The Azores Islands, constituting nine islands, are an archipelago of the Portuguese territory.
São Jorge, Azores Islands, Portugal
Understanding the Organization of the Azores Islands
The islands are organized into three groups based on their relative position and proximity: the Oriental Group, the Central Group, and the Occidental Group.
Oriental Group: Santa Maria Island and São Miguel Island
Central Group: Pico Island, São Jorge Island, Faial Island, Graciosa Island, and Terceira Island
Occidental Group: Flores Island and Corvo Island.
Many websites offer geographical information about the Azores Islands, so I won’t dwell on this subject.
To find its geographic position, you can visit Google Maps or access it here.s here.
São Jorge, Azores, Portugal
Distinguishing the Azores Islands from Portugal mainland: Exploring the Unique Characteristics of Each Island
Despite being part of Portugal, the Azores exhibit stark differences from the mainland.
Describing the Azores as merely possessing a unique environment is inadequate; it’s akin to visiting a different country with the same language, albeit with a distinct accent.
Among the various Azorean islands, significant disparities exist.
While some islands boast lush greenery and numerous lakes and waterfalls, others feature darker landscapes punctuated by imposing mountains.
These distinctions extend beyond the physical terrain to encompass traditions and ways of life.
São Miguel, the largest island in the archipelago, typifies this lushness with its vibrant greenery and architecture characterized by black and white buildings.
Conversely, Pico Island presents a darker, drier appearance due to its volcanic stone, and locals enhance the aesthetics by painting their dark stone houses’ doors red—a striking contrast.
Each island in the Azores is unique, offering its own distinct charm.
Terceira Island, Azores
Exploring the Nine Islands of the Azores? A Comprehensive Guide to Island Selection
With nine islands and considering the difficulties of access to some of them, visiting all in one week is either impossible or highly challenging.
I believe it’s not worthwhile to attempt such an itinerary.
If you’re planning a one-week tour, or even a nine-day tour, you will need to make choices regarding which islands to visit.
In this post, I will focus on a nine-day tour.
However, I will also write another post considering a two-week tour, as these two possibilities will differ significantly.
When deciding where to go and what to do, your choices will naturally depend on your personal preferences.
However:
– If you’re more inclined towards trekking, consider visiting islands like Flores or São Jorge.
– But if you’re more of a general tourist, you might want to spend more time on São Miguel and Terceira.
São Miguel Island, Azores, Portugal
Self-Reflection: Do You Identify with a Relaxed or Active Lifestyle?
To facilitate explanation, I will categorize individuals interested in visiting the Azores into two main groups:
Relaxed Group: These individuals resemble general tourists. They seek cultural activities without excessive tedium, leisurely walks that aren’t overly challenging or time-consuming, opportunities for photography, relaxation moments, and a desire to explore and understand the destination.
Active Group: These individuals are keen on exploring the area through physical activities such as walking, trekking, scuba diving, photography, sea kayaking, etc. Despite their active pursuits, they are equally interested in immersing themselves in the local culture and environment.
Note that both groups include experiences such as tasting local food and wine, interacting with locals, and engaging in relaxation activities.
I acknowledge that dividing people into two groups in this manner may not be entirely fair, but please understand that this is a blog post, not a scientific study. Allow me some leeway.
Flores Island, Azores, Portugal
Optimizing Your Nine-Day Itinerary for Exploring the Azores Islands
Now, consider how to divide the time for spending nine days visiting the Azores Islands.
Please note that I prefer not to travel with tight schedules or feel rushed all day. It’s important for me to feel that I’m maximizing my time in a balanced manner.
What suits me may not be the best approach for you, so you should make your own decisions.
The Relaxed Group will embark on a mixed tour comprising cultural activities, photo opportunities, and leisurely walks. They will spend 3 days on São Miguel island, 2 days on Pico island, 1 day on São Jorge Island, and 3 days on Terceira island.
The Active Group will have ample opportunities for walking, scuba diving, serious photography, surfing, rock climbing, and other activities. They have two possibilities:
Spending 3 days on São Miguel island, 2 days on Pico island, 2 days on São Jorge island, and 2 days on Terceira island.
Opting for 3 days on São Miguel island, 3 days on Flores island, 2 days on Pico island, and 1 day on São Jorge Island.
This is merely a suggested itinerary for dividing time between the islands. Ultimately, you will determine what works best for you.
Pico Island, Azores, Portugal
The Azores Islands: Among My Top Favorite Destinations
The Azores Islands have secured a spot on my list of favorite destinations. Over the years, I’ve explored these islands extensively, gaining intimate knowledge of each one.
There’s an abundance of activities to indulge in, ranging from leisurely walks and photography to beach relaxation and cliff jumping, not to mention cultural excursions.
Selecting which islands to visit within a week is a challenging task, as it means leaving out numerous other breathtaking locations. However, such decisions are an inevitable part of real life, constrained by considerations of time and budget.
I won’t delve into the logistical challenges of booking flights to the Azores, as these can vary depending on your departure point. Rest assured, though, I’ll delve into the reasons behind the islands I’ve chosen to highlight.
Pico Island, Azores, Portugal
More about the Azores and other adventures
For more texts about the Azores Islands, please access here.
If you’re interested in experiencing this adventure or any other from my repertoire, feel free to contact me via my travel agency, Iberactive
Calheiros and the manor house, Ponte de Lima, Portugal
Calheiros is a small parish in Ponte de Lima’s municipality, Portugal, with less than 1000 inhabitants in 9 km2, and where we find the manor house “Paço de Calheiros”.
Paço de Calheiros, or Paço of Calheiros if you prefer, is a 17th-century manor house, belonging to the family Calheiros, today also serving as a hotel unit.
This manor house is owned by the Count of Calheiros, Francisco Calheiros, the third Count of Calheiros. The family name was given to the village where it is located.
The history of this manor house will be written in another article. In this article, I want to develop an approach to a very different angle that will take us to the beginning of the 20th century.
It all started when I was watching a helicopter taking water from the swimming pool at Paço de Calheiros. Right after, while I was still under the commotion of the events, thoughts about living in a small village came to mind.
In small communities, the spirit of mutual help is in the essence of its existence.
Throughout my experience with communities such as this one, I learned that the importance of mutual help goes beyond the apparent need.
It is a behavior valued and recognized among its most dedicated members.
In the community that received Count Calheiros’s family name, it is not expected anything else from one of its most illustrious members, the Count itself.
If I am asked if this was not supposed to happen, my answer is yes, it is supposed to happen. Still, it may not be so obvious, especially in light previous century’s history.
Implementation of the Republic in 1910
From the XII century, with the establishment of Portugal as an independent country, a monarchy regime was in force until October 5, 1910, when, during a coup d’état, the Portuguese Republic was initiated.
In 1911, with the Constitution approved on August 18, great social changes were implemented. Some of those changes were the social equality that would deny any privilege of birth and the suppression of the legal representation of the nobility titles.
In short, a new constitution dictated the end of the aristocracy in Portugal and the end of its privileges.
In theory, a count or a marquis was equal to a peasant in terms of rights towards the law.
Theory and practice are two distinct worlds. If that is true today, then the differences would be even more striking in 1910.
Of one thing we can sure, aristocratic families suffered a great setback.
The period between 1910 and 1926 in Portugal, is known as the First Republic.
It was a very turbulent period in terms of the administration of the country, and great upheavals were happening with devastating social consequences for the Portuguese. For the former aristocracy, it was no different.
Carnation Revolution of 1974
Let’s make a leap from 1910 to the Carnation Revolution on April 25, 1974, a revolution that put an end to the fascist regime in Portugal and initiated the democracy in which we live today.
Following this revolution, there was again great persecution of those who held large estates or formerly held nobility titles.
Although the nobility privileges ceased with the implantation of the Republic in 1910, the nobility titles per se did not become extinct, they simply ended to have legal representation.
Thus, in the aftermath of the Carnation Revolution, holders of old titles were viewed with suspicion, and some old families saw their estates being confiscated.
Note: I do not intend to convey a political opinion with this text, only historical facts.
Considering this very dense past, which is hugely summarised here, it is not difficult to think there could be some distance between these families and the communities in which they live in. This is why I previously mentioned that the sense of responsibility from these old families towards the community might not be so obvious.
Yet, at least for what the Paço de Calheiros is concerned, everything indicates to me a great sense of responsibility and cooperation from the Calheiros family towards the community to which they belong.
I have been visiting the Paço de Calheiros very often since the end of 2010, spending several nights there each year. I accompany groups of tourists walking the Portuguese Way of Santiago(the Portuguese Saint James Way), in the Peneda Gerês National Park, and visiting the Minho region.
Throughout these years, I have had the opportunity to spend some time with the owners and employees of this manor house and had a comfortable feeling of proximity while witnessing the most diverse moments.
There are three situations, between occasional and continuous cases, that reinforce my idea of proximity between the Palace and the community.
The Folk Dances Group of Calheiros
On various occasions, this group of folk dances group acts in the Paço de Calheiros to the satisfaction of the guests who are there at the time.
In a region where excellent folk dancing groups abound, it is most of the time the local group chosen to perform.
Indeed Count of Calheiros could contract with other groups in the vicinity. Still, he is keen to support the local group.
The workers at Paço de Calheiros
Whoever has a property or a business knows how difficult it is to find suitable employees. It is even more difficult if you limit your search to a small geographical area, as is the case with Count Calheiros searching in the vicinity of the manor house.
The overwhelming majority of Paço de Calheiros’ employees are members of the community, with few exceptions.
The same happens during the grape harvest periods when first, Count of Calheiros employes all the available local people and only then resorts to workers coming from other locations.
Some of the employees are hardly distinguishable from family members. Ana, the cook, for instance, has been with the family for more than 60 years … yes, 60 years.
Participation in fire control efforts
Ponte de Lima and surroundings belong to the region called Minho, perhaps the greenest part of continental Portugal.
At Minho, there’s an abundance of diverse cultivated land, chestnut trees, pine trees, several types of fruit trees, and, of course, also the eucalyptus.
The eucalyptus trees were introduced in Portugal in the middle of the 18th century and are of extreme importance for the paper pulp industry.
The paper industry weights 2% on Portugual’s GDP. Quite important, I can say.
The eucalyptus grows very fast, adapting itself to a great variety of soils and is very resistant to all sorts of pests. All these combined make it to be a profitable activity.
Unfortunately, the eucalyptus has harmful impacts on the ecosystem where they are inserted, if other than its native ecosystem.
According to what I know, with eucalyptus plantation, the regular animal life ceases to exist, other crops can not coexist and, as a medium-term result, the soil becomes irrecoverable.
In case someone has contrary data, please send me by email what you have.
In recent decades, this tree has been at the center of the debate motivated by forest fires.
Every year Portugal is the stage of an immense amount of forest fires that consume large areas of the country, with huge material and human losses.
To give an example:
2017 – 21,006 forest fires were reported and 539,921 ha (1.334.174 acres) were burned
2018 – 12,273 forest fires were reported and 44,578 ha (110.155 acres) were burned
Average 2009/2019 – 21,250 forest fires were reported/year and 135,000 ha (333.592 acres)/year were burned
Note: Portugal mainland has an area of approximately 9,221,200 ha (22.786.081 acres), means that more than 10% of Portugal has been burning per year, on which the year 2017 tremendously affects these figures.
According to a report drawn up by an Independent Commission, there are a few reasons for the fires:
40% of the fires occurred by reignitions
40% for intentional criminal reasons
20% occurred due to negligence
I believe the same or similar conclusion can be extrapolated for other years.
So, although there is not a large amount of eucalyptus near Calheiros, there are enough reasons for concern in case of fire.
One fine day, after arriving at the Paço de Calheiros with a group of tourists with whom I was walking the Portuguese Way of Santiago, I could smell the smoke in the air.
That clearly indicated me there was a fire going on not too far from the Paço.
I wasn’t afraid for the tourists with whom I was. Paço de Calheiros has a wide-open space that would keep us safe, but naturally, I was a bit apprehensive.
When I looked for the Count of Calheiros, I saw he was swamped, organizing people and possible equipment to go and help in whatever was necessary to fight this fire.
At the same time, I heard the unmistakable sound of a helicopter approaching, and I saw the Count de Calheiros heading towards the pool area, making approval gestures to the pilot.
I quickly understood what was going on and had no time, but to pick up my camera, let my photographer spirit take over and record the moment.
The helicopter repeatedly pulled water out of the pool until there was not enough water worth collecting.
Although the fire reached considerable dimensions, it was eventually contained without causing any major damage.
After this situation, I could feel in Count of Calheiros a mixture of sadness for the burned trees but also the pride of being able to serve his community without expecting any recognition.
It is when I witness these kinds of situations that I feel there is hope for the world.
In Portugal, the term “Quinta” is frequently associated with wine-related subjects, commonly signifying a wine farm.
Depending on the region in Portugal, the meaning of the term may vary.
With a history spanning over 200 years, Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo occupies over 120 ha of land, and has been listed since the first demarcation of the Douro wine region, in 1756, during the Pombaline era.
It can denote a farming estate without necessarily producing wine.
On this website, the term primarily pertains to the wine estates in the Douro Valley.
For those interested in delving deeper into the term, an intriguing read is “Port and the Douro” by Richard Mayson.
Mayson, in this book, portrays Quintas as the foundational elements of the Douro Valley, underscoring their importance ranging from modest farms to large country estates.
Despite the term’s association with grand wine farms, Mayson highlights its broader meaning as “an area of agricultural land.”
The well-known Quintas prominently feature in this universe, but understanding the Douro Valley requires acknowledging the thousands of smaller farms.
These smaller entities form wine production communities, each contributing to the valley’s rich history and heritage.
As Mayson notes, “It is impossible to quantify the number of quintas in the Douro, but suffice to say that there are over 20,000 growers in the Douro, farming over 110,000 registered holdings.”
To complement this article, I’ve included a few photos from various Quintas in the Douro Valley.
Quinta da Roêda, Douro Valley, Portugal
I intend to explore and write about each of them, although I can’t specify when this comprehensive endeavor will be completed.
For a comprehensive understanding of the Douro Valley and its Quintas, Mayson’s book serves as an invaluable resource.
Fatima, in the heart of the Portuguese way of being
Many are the topics we can share with those who visit us. However, there are themes that, such as Fatima that by their nature or because of their history and social background, need more time to get the message across than we usually have.
The sequence of events during 1917, which had its high points in the apparitions reported by the three young shepherds, are essential and straightforward to tell.
However, by only mentioning those events, one cannot explain Fatima’s importance for the country.
Fatima goes beyond the belief, or not, in the events with the so-called young shepherds, and goes beyond the Catholic Church. It is very revealing of Portuguese culture.
I will then relate, in a chronological manner, the events that I consider essential in this case, and I will also write about some other essential side matters.
But, before I go on, I want to make a contract with whoever will read this article.
It is a simple contract, with few clauses but which I think will benefit both the reader because it will reassure him about some issues, and it will also give me more peace of mind to be able to develop this text.
So the contract is as follows:
I am a Catholic. I will do everything in my power to remove my religious convictions from this text. In return, I ask you to remove your prejudice against my beliefs, if any.
In this site, I usually write about a great diversity of subjects, and I always try to do it as rigorously as possible, confronting various sources and producing my text. In this case, a good part of the article will be of opinion, and another part will be facts.
To simplify the account, I will sometimes identify as a phenomenon cases the Catholic Church calls miracles, apparitions, or cures. This practice says nothing about my convictions on the subject.
Now that we have a contract to read this article, we can proceed.
For ease of reading, I will divide this text into blocks:
Who were the little shepherds?
The relevant places to begin understanding Fatima.
Before the apparitions of Fatima – notes on chronology.
During the apparitions of Fatima – notes on chronology.
After the apparitions of Fatima – notes on chronology.
Fatima, my personal notes.
Between the end of the 19th century and the first quarter of the 20th century, Portugal underwent profound and fascinating transformations. However, in this account, I will not deviate from the central theme that is Fatima, and I will only point out occurrences that had significance for this theme.
Anyway, still within the context of Fatima, there are matters I will have to leave out of this. Covering a more extensive number of angles will result in a massif work.
Who were the three little shepherds?
The apparitions, or phenomena, were witnessed by three children who were out in the fields shepherding their cattle.
These three children were Jacinta, Francisco, and Lucia, often identified as the three young shepherds. They were the central protagonists in this story.
In 1917, the year in which the apparitions of Fatima took place, the young shepherds were just children. Lucia was 10 years old, Francisco 8 years old, and Jacinta 7 years old.
Lucia was the cousin of brothers Francisco and Jacinta.
As it was usual at that time and in that place, children spent the day with the cattle. They did not go to school, and therefore they could neither read nor write.
The three of them came from very humble families. They lived from agriculture and lived in Valinhos, a small village next to Aljustrel.
Aljustrel, Fátima, and Cova de Iria are three villages about two kilometers apart, and geographically, their locations draw a triangle on the map.
Francisco Marto was born in 1908. He was 8 years old at the time of the first apparition and died in 1919 even before his 11th birthday after five months of suffering caused by the Spanish flu.
Jacinta Marto was born in 1910. She was 7 years old at the time of the first apparition and died in 1920 before turning 11. Also infected with the Spanish flu, she spent long periods on various hospitalizations, but, in the end, she could not resist the severity of the illness.
Lucia dos Santos (Sister Lucia) among the three little shepherds she had the most extended life. Lúcia survived the Spanish flu and dedicated herself to religious life. She was born in 1907 and died in 2005 at the age of 97. At the time of the first apparition, she was 10 years old.
The relevant places
Fatima is about 130 km north of Lisbon, and today one can get there in about 1h30m by car. However, in 1917, it took about a full day to do that.
Fatima had no more than 50 houses, and Aljustrel, a village two kilometers from Fatima, and where three little shepherds were born, would have no more than 30 homes.
Cova da Iria, where today we find the shrine of Fatima and the Chapel of the Apparitions, is also two kilometers from Fatima and Aljustrel.
It was here that the Apparitions of Fatima took place.
Here, Lucia’s father had a piece of land where the little shepherds used to take the sheep and goats to graze every day.
Valinhos is a small village next to Aljustrel. This is where the little shepherds lived.
The Chapel of the Apparitions is located in Cova da Iria and is the oldest building in that area. It was built in 1919 on the site of the Holm oak tree was, and the apparitions were recorded.
The Sanctuary of Fatima, its official name is the Basilica of Our Lady of the Rosary of Fatima. It is located at Cova da Iria, it is the largest building in the area, and it should be the most photographed building in Fatima. The first stone was laid in 1928, but the Basilica was inaugurated only in 1953.
Before the apparitions of Fatima – notes of chronology
1908, 1 Feb – The royal family crossed Terreiro do Paço Square in Lisbon. They came from a stay in Vila Viçosa, Alentejo. In the carriage, the four members of the royal family, King D. Carlos I, Queen D. Amélia, the heir son D. Luís Filipe and the youngest son D. Manuel. Two men approached from the carriage, Manuel Buiça, and Alfredo da Costa, and shot the king and the oldest prince.
1908, 6 May – At the age of 18, D. Manuel II was acclaimed king. During the monarchic regime, the Monarchy and the Catholic Church formed a unique political entity.
1910, 5 Oct – Implantation of the Republic that meant the end of the monarchic regime and the beginning of the republican administration. Teófilo Barga becomes the first President of the Portuguese Republic and the period called the First Republic begins. This government had a strongly anticlerical policy.
1911, 20 Apr – The Law of Separation between the State and the Church is published. All cults are declared free, is forbidden the teaching of Christianity in schools, and the assets of the Catholic Church were nationalized. Consequently, relations with the Holy Church were cut off.
1916, 9 Mar – Germany declares war on Portugal after German cargo ships were seized on national territory, following an English request. Until July of that year, Portugal took more than 70 German cargo ships.
1917, 30 Jan – The 1st Brigade of the Portuguese Expeditionary Corps (CPE) departs commanded by Colonel Costa Gomes, bound for Flanders. The actual participation of Portugal in the First World War begins.
1917, 8/10 Mar – Start of the Russian Revolution. February Revolution and Petrograd tumults.
1917, 4 Apr – The first Portuguese soldier was shot down at the front of the First World War, where about 10,000 soldiers died from the approximately 200,000 men mobilized at some point.
1917, 9 Apr – The CEP suffers heavy casualties at the Battle of La Lys.
Note: the secrets of Fatima will involve Russia, so it was essential to mention related events in this country.
During the Fatima apparitions – notes of chronology
1917, 13 May – The three young shepherds claimed to have seen a woman in white on a holm oak tree. During this apparition, there was more interaction between the woman in white and Lucia, and less with the other two little shepherds, there were differences in that interaction. Lucia reported having had words about the end of the war. The lady in white scheduled apparitions for the 13th of the following months.
1917, 13 Juni – The phenomenon was beginning to be known in the vicinity. Dozens of people came to the place, and the apparition was again witnessed by the children. The accounts of other people present are ambiguous.
1917, 13 July – On this date, the reports of “secrets of Fatima” begin. On the spot, apart from the little shepherds, there may have been between 1000 and 2000 people.
1917, 13 Aug – The little shepherds were retained by the Administrator of Vila Nova de Ourém and by a priest and could not be at Cova da Iria. There may have been 5000 people with ambiguous reports.
1917, 13 Sept – The phenomenon, having already been reported in newspapers, is beginning to be known to the general population. About 30,000 people attended the site. Reports say they saw Lucia talking to someone invisible.
1917, 13 Oct – Close to 100,000 people may have participated at Cova da Iria on this previously announced date. There was the phenomenon of the “sun dance,” which is described by very diverse people.
Note: the three secrets of Fatima can be found here .
After the apparitions of Fatima – notes on chronology
1917, 7 Nov – Assault on the Winter Palace in St. Petersburg. It is the beginning of the October Revolution, Bolsheviks take over strategic points in Petrograd.
1917, 5 Dec – Another military uprising in Lisbon. This time it results at the beginning of the presidential and authoritarian regime imposed by Sidónio Pais, who was called the “President-King”.
1918, 9/10 Jul – Sidónio Pais re-states diplomatic relations with the Holy See.
1918, 9 Apr – The CEP suffers heavy casualties at the Battle of La Lys.
1918, 11 Nov – The Armistice of the First World War is signed.
1918, 14 Dec – Sidónio Pais is murdered, which causes a significant impact on the country. Fernando Pessoa will praise him posthumously with the poem “President-King”.
1919, 4 Apr – Francisco Marto dies, he is the first young shepherd to die.
1919, 15 Jun – The Chapel of the Apparitions is built.
1920, 20 Feb – Jacinta Marto, sister of Francisco Marto, dies.
1921, 13 Oct – Authorisation to celebrate Mass in the Chapel of the Apparitions.
1922, 6 Mar – The Chapel of the Apparitions is attacked by radical anticlericalists. The Chapel is reconstructed.
1926, 28 May – Coup d’état ending the disastrous period of the First Republic, where Portugal had forty-five Governments and nine Presidents in sixteen years. The Military Dictatorship was imposed, followed by a regime called “Estado Novo” (New State), which lasted 48 years.
1928, 13 May – The first stone for the construction of the Basilica of Our Lady of the Rosary (Fatima) was laid.
1953, 13 Oct – The works of the Basilica of Our Lady of the Rosary are finished.
2005, 13 Feb – Lucia dies at 97 years of age.
Note: the secrets of Fatima will involve Russia, so it was essential to mention related events in this country.
Fatima, my personal notes
The Fatima phenomenon occurred at a particular moment in the history of Portugal when there was a tremendous widespread resentment towards the anticlerical measures implemented at the beginning of the First Republic.
Please bear in mind that, although the Republican faction succeeded in overthrowing the Monarchy and imposed a secular state, it was made up of people from an urban environment and who represented a small minority of the population.
The rest of the country’s population consisted overwhelmingly of profoundly Catholic and illiterate peasants. They did not share these secularist ideals.
To reinforce the idea of populations’ displeasure, for the troops sent to the front it had to be given religious support, which was a fundamental part of their culture, but which, at the same time, made no sense in the political context of the time.
It seems to me that there was a fertile ground for a phenomenon with the characteristics of Fatima nature to take hold.
But I do not mean that this could have been the work of the Church, not at all. As a matter of fact, the apparitions of Fatima took place at a time of severed relations between the State and the Holy See. Because of this, the Church was very fragile in Portugal.
It should be noted that in the case of Fatima, the central protagonists were three illiterate children. They had no connection with the outside world beyond their limited geographical area. Words like Russia were not part of their vocabulary.
When these apparitions occurred, the Church was very cautious in dealing with this issue. The Church took two years to authorize a place of worship for Our Lady of Fatima, which happened with the Chapel of the Apparitions and later the Basilica.
Nor can we invoke obscure interests in these children, and even their parents, who knew little or nothing more about the world than the humble reality that surrounded them.
In the short life of the two brothers Marto, there was little more than much suffering after the Apparitions, and Lucia, who had a longer life, dedicated her existence to religious life without material goods.
What about the scheduled phenomena?
There are not only believers stating they saw the apparitions. You can find all combinations, believers that couldn’t see anything but also nonbelievers reporting they saw the lady in white and the sun phenomenon.
Towards Fatima, there were always very diverse positions. There are defenders, and their respective publications, of all possible theories.
The massive popular support for the Fatima apparitions confirmed Portugal as a Catholic country at the time. Any different ideas that might exist would be confined to urban minorities.
The growth of the phenomenon, the construction of the Basilica, the appearance of shops near the enclosure, the popularity, the sacrifices made by penitents and pilgrims, and the dissemination of information which many refer to as propaganda, have been subjects of debate, discord, criticism, and veneration from day one.
Of course, there is much more to say about Fatima. Still, I think that here I conclude my aim with this text, which is to give a context and a starting point for those who visit Fatima or want to know more about it.
Not developed in this text, there is the subject “the secrets of Fatima”. Because I think it is a subject that can be dealt with in a separate text, I will leave it for later.
Visiting Fatima does not imply adherence to the cult.
Fatima represents an opportunity to better know the deepest and most intimate reality of Portuguese culture.
I can say that Fatima, and all its history, is a synthesis one of the complex ways of being of the Portuguese.
Did you know that until recently, the Azorean tea was the only truly European tea? Tea grows in the Azores, islands since the 19th century. Learn about it.
Well, maybe you didn’t know that tea is also produced in the Azores, but now you do.
The Azores no longer has the exclusivity of tea production in Europe. A tea plantation can also be found in Portugal’s mainland.
Even so, I am going to tell you that China, because of old trade relations with Portugal, is doubly involved in the reason why tea started to be produced in the Azores.
Relax, this has nothing to do with modern world politics matters.
Chinese oranges – the first reason why China is is doubly involved in the tea plantation in the Azores.
In the 16th century, when the Portuguese sailed around the world, they traded with various cultures in the countries they contacted. China and other Asian countries were good examples.
There are very curious cases of products brought by Portuguese to Asian countries of these relations.
The Portuguese Navigators discovered Brasil in 1500, and from there, they brought chili. Then they took it to Asia on their many journeys.
Nowadays, chili is the dominant flavor of many Asian Kebabs and also of the most well-known chili-based sauce in the world, curry.
Curry is generally identified as having its origin in India. But this sauce – Kuri in Hindi means sauce – could not have appeared without the Portuguese.
Also, it was through the Portuguese that Europe started to drink tea. Following the marriage between Portuguese Catarina de Bragança and the English King Charles II, in the 17th century, the queen consort took with her the habit of drinking tea in the middle of the afternoon. From there, the habit spread throughout Europe.
During the relations with southern China, during the 16th century, the Portuguese gave them products that did not exist there, such as sweet potatoes, green beans, and lettuce.
Among a long list of products the Portuguese brought from China came the orange.
It is in the Algarve, the southern region of Portugal, where the oranges best adapted. Some say that it is in the Algarve where the best European oranges can be found.
It was still in the 16th century that oranges were taken to the Azores. There, they also found a very favorable soil and climate, becoming one among the agricultural products with the highest yield in the archipelago. From the Azores, oranges began to be exported to many destinations, England being the preferred market due to its strong, long-lasting commercial relations with Portugal.
In 1834, two lemon trees were taken to the island of Faial. It was not known that these lemon trees carried Coccus Cochonilha, a pest that would decimate the production of Azorean oranges.
And, as if the said plague was not sufficient evil, also, the orange groves contracted a disease known as “the tear,” causing premature fall of oranges from the trees.
The economic impact was brutal, and it was urgent to find new possible crops for the Azores, to replace the devastating loss of income associated with the end of orange production.
It is in the context, new cultures were introduced in the Azores, primarily in some nurseries on the island of São Miguel.
Thus tea, pineapple, tobacco, and other less relevant crops appear as part of Azorian productions.
Although tea plants found the perfect soil and climate to thrive, no one in the archipelago knew the method of producing tea for drinking.
Here I need to pause just to say something that I do not think is generally known.
The tea drink is made from a specific type of Camellia, Camellia Sinensis, and only from this plant can we have tea. All the other beverages that we commonly call tea, such as chamomile, are actually infusions.
Having the plant but not the method of preparing it to drink was a significant problem.
There is no general consensus on who and when the tea plant was introduced in the Azores. What is known is that the plant appeared before knowing how to prepare it to drink.
None the less, it seems to be well known when and what was done to acquire and spread the needed knowledge among the farmers.
One of the most prominent Azorean figureheads of the last quarter of the 18th century will play a fundamental role in the recovery from the depression caused by the loss of orange culture. José do Canto.
Tea maker experts from China – the second reason why China is is doubly involved in the tea plantation in the Azores.
José do Canto, was a great Azorean landowner and intellectual, extraordinarily dynamic and with immense dedication to his native land, the Azores.
Through the Sociedade Promotora da Agricultura Micaelense, José do Canto, obtains means and contacts for hiring Chinese tea maker experts who would introduce the knowledge of cultivation and production of tea in the Azores.
Thus, on March 5, 1878, the master Lau-a-Pau and his assistant Lau-a-Teng arrived on the island of São Miguel.
In the year and a half that they were in São Miguel, it was possible to train a substantial number of farmers who joined the new tea plantation momentum.
But the impact these men had on the island was not limited to agriculture. Whenever they went out on the streets, they had the Azoreans fascinated.
We need to remember that São Miguel island, at that time, was a very isolated community in the middle of the Atlantic, and these Chinese were perhaps the first Asians that most of the population had seen in their entire lives.
But this fascination was reciprocal. It was not only from the Azoreans but also these Chinese men were curious about everything around them.
These Oriental technicians were simple people who were now in a totally different environment from the one they were used to.
At the beginning of the 20th century, there were five major tea producers in the Azores and around forty small producers.
Today only two companies remain Gorreana and Porto Formoso, both on the island of São Miguel.
The visit to these factories is a mandatory stop on a trip to this island. We can visit the plantation and the production of the different types of tea produced there.
The original production must have been very well assembled from the beginning because even today, we can see the original machinery. Perhaps due to the factory’s vintage look or because of the pungent tea aroma ambiance, I find this visit fascinating.
It is said that olfactory memories are the ones that last the longest.
What was left to say?
In the course of this article, and until the end, I purposely left some open doors for further development:
How did tea spread throughout Europe?
Why in Portuguese do we have such a different word for tea such as “chá”?
If oranges originally entered Europe through Portugal, why are the English sour orange marmalade so known?
The Sao Jorge Castle overlooks Lisbon from its hilltop perch.
Cobbled sidewalks beneath your feet reveal the meticulous craftsmanship of its construction.
Each stone cube, carefully laid, measures no more than three fingers wide, held together by compact sand that both unites them and allows water to seep through.
Adorned with caravels, waves, and geometric shapes in darker stones, the castle’s light-colored stones contrast with occasional hues of dark pink or blue.
Amidst 18th-century architecture, the castle stands as a magnificent protector of the city, dominating the skyline.
Lisbon view
Long lines to visit Sao Jorge Castle
Should you brave the long lines to visit? That’s the question.
Fernando Pessoa, the renowned Portuguese poet, famously wrote, “Everything is worthwhile if the soul is not small.”
However, one’s perspective on worthiness depends on personal interests and available time.
I’ve previously explored this question in another article.
If your interests lie in urban art and you have only two days in Lisbon, there are likely better options than the Castle.
Nonetheless, consider engaging a guide for a richer experience if you want to visit.
The Castle of São Jorge holds more than meets the eye.
Without a guide, you’ll see a medieval castle with a stunning view over Lisbon and the Tagus river.
Perhaps you’ll do some research beforehand or bring along a tourist guidebook, discovering that the Castle was conquered by our first king, D. Afonso Henriques, in 1147.
That’s perfectly acceptable.
However, with guiding services, you’ll interpret the breathtaking view and delve into centuries of the monument’s existence, including sieges, earthquakes, and monumental building works.
I won’t delve into the Castle’s entire history here—it’s too vast for this context, and I’m not a historian.
There are excellent books on the subject.
Sao Jorge castle
Alternative ways to learn about Lisbon’s castle
Moreover, history books aren’t the only valuable reading before visiting a site.
Novels can ignite our imagination, enhancing tourist experiences.
Picture the Castle’s conquest by the Moors through ‘History of the Siege of Lisbon’ by José Saramago.
Explore key moments in the Castle’s history, offering insights into Lisbon’s diverse wartime scenarios.
Roman Period (BC)
138 – Decimus Junius Brutus, a Roman, conquers the future Olisipo (Lisbon), previously Felicitas Julia. He discovers a Celtiberian fortification, enhanced by the Romans.
Post-Roman era witnesses Barbarian and Christian occupations:
411 to 418 – Alans occupy without significant resistance.
418 to 453 – Visigoths, serving the Roman Empire, conquer the city. Alans retreat to North Africa.
457 – Suevi seize the town after tumultuous clashes and shifting alliances with Rome.
460 – under King Theodoric II, Visigoths recapture Olissipo by Emperor Avito’s order.
469 – Suevi, led by King Remismundo, reclaims Olissipo.
During the 5th century, the town adopts names like Ulixbuna or Ulixbona.
585 – Visigoth King Leovigildo asserts control.
6 ?? – Construction of a new fortification (15 hectares / 37 acres) and initial Christian churches commence.
Muslim occupation
714/719 – Abd al Aziz Muça’s Muslim army seizes the city, renaming it Ulisbona, Al-Lishbuna, Aschbouna, or Al-Ushbuna, marking the start of Muslim rule.
798 – Afonso II (Christian) sacks the town.
800 (beginning) – Period of confusion.
844- Vikings, with over 100 ships, besiege the Castle for 10 days, damaging walls and looting the area.
857 – Another Viking assault fails, leaving scant records.
966 – Third Viking attack, repelled by strong Muslim resistance. The Vikings are defeated near Silves, Algarve.
The city’s name evolves to Lisipona, Lisibona, Lisbona, Lixboa.
956 – Ordonho III, king of Leon, plunders Lisbon, damaging the walls.
1015/1093 – Moorish taifas of Badajoz and Seville alternately dominate the city.
1060 – King Fernando Magno of Leon briefly conquers Lisbon.
1109 – Lisbon falls into the hands of Sir, son of Abu Becre, ushering in a period of stability until 1147.
Christian occupation
1147 – D. Afonso Henriques, Portugal’s first king, conquers the Castle.
1384 – King Juan I of Castile, Spain, lays siege to the Castle. The Spanish army abandons the siege due to a plague outbreak, which devastates the troops and the king.
No significant wartime events occur after these dates.
Modern era
In the 1940s, significant rehabilitation efforts are undertaken on the Castle.
To conclude
Romans, barbarians, Moors, and Christians have both constructed and razed this fortress for nearly two millennia.
Some tales of bravery endure, like that of Martim Moniz, a Portuguese captain who sacrificed himself by blocking a door during the Castle’s conquest in 1147, allowing his troops to enter.
Yet, some shameful acts by the Christians during that same event linger as a reminder to avoid repeating such mistakes.
São Jorge Castle is one of the city’s most visited monuments. Whether you choose to explore its history is yours to decide. Regardless, seize the day.
Do you want to learn more about this subject? Please join me for one of my Private Tours.
Enjoy your day.
David Monteiro
PS: In Portuguese, the correct spelling is São Jorge, not Sao, as written in this text. However, I’ve simplified it for your convenience, considering keyboard limitations.
The cork stopper is the first thing we see when we open a bottle of good wine, and there is a 50% chance of it being a Portuguese cork.
A bottle of good wine requires a top-quality cork stopper. The cork’s physical characteristics and the sobriety and distinction it adds to the wine are essential.
However, cork has vast applications beyond stoppers.
Nowadays, we find cork used in footwear, clothing, mechanical joints, thermal insulation, acoustic insulation, flooring, steering wheel covers, mobile phone covers, etc.
Please note that Cork has a very discreet but classy presence.
Cork piles from Portugal.
Have you ever wondered where cork comes from?
Well, Portuguese cork is one of the topics that generate the most questions during my tours, alongside questions about wine.
It indicates a specific knowledge about Portugal, considering cork is one of the country’s most important products.
Allow me to present some quantitative data to explain the importance of cork in Portugal and the world:
Portugal produces 49.6% of the world’s cork (100,000 tons, 2010).
Portugal exports € 985.2 million out of a total of € 1578.2 million, representing 62.4% of the world cork market share.
The cork oak is Portugal’s second most prevalent tree, occupying 23% of the forested areas in 2010.
The cork tree with the harvest year painted on it
How is cork made from the cork oak?
I will outline the essential sequence from planting cork oak trees to producing cork stoppers.
However, I need to separate it into four sections: the “montado,” the cork oak, the cork, and the cork stopper.
What is a “montado”
The “montado,” predominantly found in Portugal’s southern region of Alentejo, comprises an ecosystem where cork oaks, holm oaks, livestock, various bird species, and cereal plantations coexist.
It significantly influences Portuguese culture, shaping lifestyle, gastronomy, and traditional music.
Despite its prevalence in Alentejo, cork oaks also thrive in scattered areas across the country.
Notably, the “montado” fosters biodiversity and sustains vital agricultural practices.
During winters, it evokes nostalgia with its golden cereal fields and warm breezes.
Cattle like Alentejo sheep, Mertolenga cows, and black pigs forage on cork oak acorns, enhancing local delicacies. However, not all cork oak clusters constitute a “montado.”
Those lacking a comprehensive ecosystem are termed “sobreiral.”
These areas lack biodiversity and often have trees planted closer together for more intensive cropping.
Despite variations, the “montado” remains integral to Portugal’s identity and environmental sustainability.
It symbolizes the harmonious coexistence of nature and human activity, preserving traditions while supporting modern agricultural practices.
As visitors explore the “montado,” they encounter painted numbers on cork oak trees, marking the last cork stripping year—a testament to its enduring importance and cyclical nature.
Whistler, the oldest cork tree
Facts about cork oaks
The cork oak, scientifically known as Quercus suber, is an oak family tree.
Like other oaks, it bears acorns, which black pigs feed on, enhancing pork taste.
These medium-sized trees, about 15 meters high and never more than 25 meters, can live for 200 years or more.
The oldest cork oak in the world is in Portugal, in Águas de Moura village, called Whistler, or Sobreiro Assobiador in Portuguese, due to the numerous birds often found there.
Whistler was planted in 1783 and stands over 14 meters high.
2018, this Portuguese cork oak won the European distinction of “The Tree Of The Year.”
Since 1820, this cork oak has been stripped about twenty times. In 1991 alone, 1,200 kg of cork was removed, yielding over 100,000 cork stoppers.
Portuguese cork production
The outer layer of the cork oak trunk consists of dead plant cells, known as cork.
Removing cork from the tree does not harm it; it is comparable to trimming nails for humans.
Cork extraction is exclusive to cork oaks.
The process of cork growth is lengthy.
In Portugal, it is believed that cork harvesting from self-planted trees is rare. This is because of the following reasons.
The first stripping occurs when the tree reaches 25 years of age, provided its trunk perimeter is at least 70 cm at a height of 1.3 m from the ground. This yields cork known as “virgin,” with low commercial value.
At 34 years, the second stripping takes place, nine years after the initial one. Although not suitable for cork stoppers, this cork is ideal for granules and other products, termed as “secundeira” or the second one.
Subsequent strippings occur every nine years from the age of 43 and onwards. This cork, known as “amadia” or reproduction cork, possesses the quality required for cork stoppers or other cork products.
Following this, cork-stopper production begins.
Before delving into this, let’s discuss the stripping process.
Stripping cork oaks remains a manual process, with no foreseeable replacement with machinery.
It involves skillfully using an ax to remove large cork boards, done during the hot period from mid-May to late August when temperatures can reach up to 45º C.
The boards are then transported to the factory, where they are boiled to remove impurities and flattened for calibration before being used in production.
Different products are manufactured based on the quality of the boards.
Though I can’t detail all cork products here, let’s focus on cork stoppers. Additionally, I’ve included some informative links for further exploration.
In 2016, Portugal’s cork industry generated a turnover of €1,466 million, with €785 million attributed to the manufacturing of cork stoppers, constituting 53.5% of the cork market in Portugal.
Yes, astonishing!
Did you know that cork stoppers were initially crafted from rectangular cork pieces, which were then manually adjusted to the desired diameter?
It wasn’t until the early 20th century that the machine, known as Galorpa, was invented for this purpose, initiating industrial production of stoppers.
While I won’t delve into the entire production process, two steps stand out:
Visual selection. Although each cork stopper undergoes electronic inspection, human discernment is crucial in determining their quality.
Marking is also vital. Each cork stopper is branded with ink or fire, bearing the distinctive mark of the customer, ensuring the wine’s authenticity upon opening. Now you understand why the sommelier presents you with the cork stopper after opening an expensive bottle of wine.
The well-known commercial threat posed by plastic, rubber stoppers, and metal caps to the cork stopper market persists.
While artificial stoppers are increasingly prevalent in less expensive wines and in many countries, this trend has yet to catch on in Portugal.
However, some cork alternatives, such as the Helix system by Corticeira Amorim, are being introduced to compete against artificial corks, for which I extend my sincerest wishes for success.
Montado area – cork trees and much more
The environmental impact
This section may offer many pleasant surprises.
In an era where the world is increasingly attentive to environmental concerns, understanding how each industry contributes to reducing its ecological footprint is crucial.
The Portuguese cork industry’s contribution couldn’t be more significant, as it absorbs more carbon from the environment than it produces.
According to a document by Corticeira Amorim, the largest cork company in Portugal:
The worldwide scientific community acknowledges that greenhouse gas emissions cause global warming.
Forests play a crucial role in combating this phenomenon by absorbing carbon dioxide through photosynthesis, storing it in trees and soil.
The long lifespan of cork oak trees makes them particularly effective at storing carbon.
Studies comparing cork stoppers to alternatives like aluminum and plastic show that cork is the most environmentally friendly choice, minimizing carbon footprint.
Cork oak forests have the remarkable ability to absorb 14.7 tons of CO2 per hectare, with the Western Mediterranean alone storing around 30.66 million tons of CO2.
To conclude this subject, I’d like to recommend one of the best documentaries I’ve encountered: “BBC Cork Forest in a Bottle.“
I hope my insights have contributed to enhancing your understanding of Portuguese cork and helped you appreciate the cork products available for purchase in Portugal.
Gran Sol Bar and Restaurant, Basque Country, Spain
In Hondarribia, Basque Country, there is a pintxo cathedral, and it is called Gran Sol.
Don’t you know what a pintxo is? Are you kidding? eheheheh
Of course, you might not know what a pintxo is. Pintxo is the Basque word for tapas.
Gran Sol is a bar and restaurant that offers a comprehensive option of high-quality pintxos, or tapas, as you prefer.
A trip to the Basque Country can be a delight for many reasons, and gastronomy probably leads the list.
In this list of delusions this bar and restaurant in Hondarribia, needs to be included.
I strongly suggest the experience of tasting the pintxos in this bar.
The moment you go into the bar, you will get hooked by the total madness: a counter full of possibilities… there are so many variety and quantity of options that we get lost. We want to try EVERYTHING.
In the Basque Country, it is common to have pintxo bars, of course, I know that. But this one is special.
In three consecutive years of walking around here, leading tours, I had the opportunity to visit many bars and restaurants. Still, this one is on the shortlist.
The owners of this bar/restaurant systematically participated in pintxos contests where they compete with the best Chefs in the region… and win.
Wining such contests in the Basque Country, which is the land of excellent cooks, is like playing in the First League.
At Gran Sol bar, we can taste these winning delights.
I wouldn’t be able to describe all the pintxos here, so I selected Hondarribia and Jaizkibel. Please access their posts to know more about each one.
