Embark on a Tagus river cruise at Escaroupim, Portugal, and experience endless days.
Escaroupim, perfect for a Tagus river cruise
About Escaroupim
Just a 45-minute drive north of Lisbon, lies the quaint village of Escaroupim, nestled along the left bank of the Tagus River, known as Tejo in Portuguese.
Escaroupim stands as one of the many “aldeias avieiras” dotted along the river. Perhaps you’re unfamiliar with the term “aldeia avieira,” but fear not, for its intricacies will be explored in another article.
River boat at Escaroupim
What is an “aldeia avieira”
An “aldeia avieira” is a traditional riverside village along the Tagus River in Portugal.
These villages were historically inhabited by fishermen and their families, known for their unique architecture and cultural practices.
Today, they offer a glimpse into Portugal’s rich maritime heritage.
Tagus river cruise at Escaroupim
About the river cruise itself
Within this charming traditional village, you have the opportunity to board a boat and set sail on a Tagus river cruise, navigating through a network of winding river canals, where flocks of birds converge for their evening feast—an awe-inspiring spectacle.
Moreover, immerse yourself in engaging narratives about the indigenous birdlife from knowledgeable guides.
Come rain or shine, the boats have covers to shield passengers from the elements.
However, the true magic lies in the timing of your excursion, with the sunset reigning supreme.
Capturing memorable moments on the Tagus River
Keep your camera poised, for you never know when a bird or even a horse will emerge before your lens.
Indeed, I once beheld horses leisurely grazing on the riverbank, their hooves submerged in the water, appearing seemingly out of nowhere around a bend.
Now forewarned: keep your camera at the ready.
Exploring off the beaten path: unveiling hidden gems along the Tagus River
This is an escapade far removed from bustling city crowds, where you can also explore neighboring riverside hamlets known as “aldeias avieiras.”
To enhance your journey, consider indulging in the local gastronomy at a riverside restaurant nearby. You’ll find culinary delights to savor just a short stroll from the pier, where the boats await.
Savor every moment; this will undoubtedly be a day etched in memory.
Embark on this adventure or any other wonderful tour with me at Iberactive.com.
Tour operators, brochures, travel books, and other tourist information sources actively promote Tram 28 as the foremost choice among tourists in Lisbon.
This tram, also known as 28E, holds significance, especially for those waiting at bus stops.
Let’s explore its history.
Why it garners such extensive promotion warrants attention.
Whether riding Tram 28 is truly worthwhile is a question worth exploring.
While there’s much to delve into regarding these topics, the finer details are best reserved for my guided tours.
Lisbon tram
Let’s delve into the history of trams in Lisbon, focusing mainly on Tram 28.
Let’s begin with the inception of Lisbon’s tramway system, which includes the rich history of Tram 28.
On August 31, 1901, the “Companhia de Carris de Ferro de Lisboa” launched the tram services in Lisbon.
Initially, sixteen vehicles traversed a route from Cais do Sodré square to Ribamar in the Algés area, tracing the banks of the River Tagus.
The introduction of trams wasn’t without controversy.
Critics voiced concerns over the perceived breakneck speed of these trams, which could reach up to 12 km/h (7.5 mi/h), a significant pace for the time.
They also decried the trams as perilous to pedestrians and sources of infernal and unhealthy noise.
While such arguments may seem quaint today, they resonated in an era accustomed to animal-drawn carriages.
Despite the initial skepticism, trams swiftly ingrained themselves into the fabric of Lisbon’s daily life.
And the Tram 28 was born
In 1906, the first segment of the iconic Tram 28 route was established.
Over subsequent decades, the route gradually expanded, culminating in its present form, stretching from Campo de Ourique to Martim Moniz, bridging two bustling Lisbon districts by the 1930s.
However, starting from the 1960s, as buses proliferated, the popularity of trams waned.
By the end of that decade, discussions arose about removing trams from circulation entirely.
In the early 1970s, many tracks were already dismantled from public roads, and numerous routes were suspended.
However, the tide turned in 1974 with the aftermath of the Carnation Revolution, which halted many of the country’s structural investments, including plans for expanding the bus fleet in Lisbon.
Decline
Despite this, the city’s population grew, creating a pressing need for more public transportation.
With no available investment for new solutions, the revival of some old trams became imperative, once again rendering them invaluable to society.
In any case, shortly thereafter, the surge in the number of cars in Lisbon, coupled with the acceleration of daily life, and the inherent limitation of trams to increase their speed, compounded by their confinement to rails, led to their gradual decline.
Even now, contemporary trams akin to those found in major European cities have been introduced into circulation.
However, they are limited in number and primarily operate on longer routes, such as the one between Praça da Figueira and Algés.
Why it garners such extensive promotion warrants attention.
Understanding Lisbon makes it clear why this route garners immense popularity.
It winds through picturesque Lisbon districts, characterized by narrow, winding streets, where trams glide slowly along aged steel rails, offering a glimpse of Lisbon’s traditional landscape.
Whether riding Tram 28 is truly worthwhile is a question worth exploring.
The renowned Portuguese poet Fernando Pessoa once remarked, “everything is worthwhile if the soul is not small.”
Whether taking Tram 28 is worth it for you remains subjective, but I can outline some of the trip’s advantages and drawbacks.
Pros:
– Trams like the iconic 28 are emblematic of Lisbon’s charm and character.
– Tram 28 follows a picturesque and informative route, offering a glimpse into the heart of Lisbon.
– Riding these vintage trams can be a delightful experience.
Cons:
– Long queues often form for these trams, potentially consuming significant time, a precious commodity, especially if you have limited days in Lisbon.
– Due to its popularity, Tram 28 can become crowded, detracting from the enjoyment of the ride.
– The bustling environment of Tram 28 can attract pickpockets, posing a risk to passengers’ belongings.
Inna Korneeva Drawings
Inna Korneeva
Before concluding, I extend gratitude to artist Inna Korneeva for the illustrations accompanying this article.
Inna Korneeva, a Russian artist who resided in Portugal for a period, developed a deep affection for our country and culture.
The featured illustration depicts Tram 28, while the one directly above showcases Route 15.
Route 15 closely resembles the inaugural tram route established in Lisbon in 1901.
The illustrations, perfectly suited for this article, pay homage to the trams, capturing their essence in the artist’s work.
For more of Inna Korneeva’s artwork, you can explore her portfolio here.
Embark on a journey to Lisbon and immerse yourself in the experience. Join me for a Private Day Tour.
Upon arriving at Quinta da Regaleira in Sintra, Portugal, visitors naturally want to learn about its history, sculptures, paintings, and interpretations.
They seek to understand the ideals represented, uncover the mysteries behind the artworks, explore the particularities of its architecture, and gather other pertinent information.
Our instinct drives us to delve into Quinta da Regaleira’s depths.
However, merely acquiring such information, while crucial, is insufficient to truly comprehend the monument.
In this case, understanding the life history of its original owner, António Augusto Carvalho Monteiro, becomes essential.
Henceforth, for practicality, António Augusto Carvalho Monteiro will be referred to as Carvalho Monteiro or simply CM, as he frequently identified himself at Quinta da Regaleira.
Quinta da Regaleira, Sintra
The chronological sequence of significant events related to Quinta da Regaleira
To provide context within the historical milieu of Carvalho Monteiro’s life and the construction of Quinta da Regaleira, I present a list of pertinent dates:
– 1848, Nov 27th: Carvalho Monteiro is born in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. – 1859: Carvalho Monteiro travels from Brazil to Portugal. – 1871: Carvalho Monteiro graduates in Law and leaves his degree in Philosophy incomplete. – 1879: Luigi Manini arrives in Portugal. – 1893, Dec 11th: CM purchases Quinta da Regaleira for 25 “contos de réis,” the currency at the time. – 1898: CM commissions the project to Luigi Manini. – 1900: Construction of the palace, chapel, and garden commences. – 1905: Construction of the palace gardens begins. – 1908, Feb 1st: King D. Carlos I is assassinated in Terreiro do Paço, Lisbon. – 1910, Oct 5th: Transition from the monarchy regime to a republic. – 1912: Completion of palace works, chapel, and garden. – 1913, Oct: CM is arrested, implicated in the monarchic attempt of 1913 against the republican Afonso Costa. He is later released. – 1913, Dec 25th: Death of Perpetua Augusta Pereira de Melo, Carvalho Monteiro’s wife. – 1918: Conclusion of the garden’s floral decorations. – 1920, Oct 25th: Carvalho Monteiro passes away at Quinta da Regaleira. – 1949: Waldemar Jara d’Orey purchases Quinta da Regaleira. – 1988, Jan 12th: Sale in favor of Aoki Corporation. – 1997: Sintra City Council acquires Quinta da Regaleira from the Japanese group Aoki Corporation. – 1998: Quinta da Regaleira opens to the public.
Where did his money come from?
I take the opportunity to mention that Carvalho Monteiro’s fortune was inherited from his father. The latter traded precious stones, in addition to other ventures.
Carvalho Monteiro’s social network
To comprehend the work undertaken at Quinta da Regaleira, it’s crucial to consider that during his time at the University of Coimbra, Carvalho Monteiro maintained close friendships with notable figures such as Hintze Ribeiro, Bernardino Machado, Guerra Junqueiro, and other prominent personalities of the era.
As this text will primarily cater to non-Portuguese speakers, I recommend researching the aforementioned names.
Given such friendships, one can infer that Carvalho Monteiro was undoubtedly a man of significant cultural stature.
The mysterious Initiation Well of Quinta da Regaleira
A proclivity for esoteric subjects
As a man of the 19th/20th century, he possessed extensive knowledge of esoteric subjects and maintained a remarkably high general culture, akin to contemporary standards.
Historical records indicate that he spoke Latin with fluency comparable to Portuguese and possessed a unique collection of books by Camões.
A devout Catholic, he staunchly supported the monarchy and maintained a personal friendship with King D. Carlos.
Consequently, when D. Carlos was assassinated on February 1st, 1908, Carvalho Monteiro draped the palace with black and purple crepes for several days in a gesture of reverence.
Carlho Monteiro’s personality
Studies on Carvalho Monteiro depict him as a reserved individual with refined tastes, which he enjoyed in the company of family or friends rather than displaying them ostentatiously.
However, following the establishment of the Republic, CM, being a personal friend of the king and possessing considerable wealth, became the target of a shameful campaign aimed at discrediting him.
Although the campaign achieved some success initially, it appears to have ultimately failed to withstand the test of time.
Those seeking to discredit CM portrayed him as miserly.
Yet, for those who knew him intimately, he was recognized as a profoundly generous individual, albeit cautious in his expenditures and humble in his interactions, yet resolute in his convictions.
Carvalho Monteiro within Lisbon’s social circles
He played a significant role as one of the founding members of the Lisbon Zoo. He anonymously supported various charitable endeavors such as the Misericórdia de Sintra and the artistic initiatives of the Royal Theater of São Carlos.
References to Carvalho Monteiro’s purported affiliation with Freemasonry abound, yet this topic remains a point of contention among scholars.
While many argue for his involvement with Freemasonry and interpret various symbols in Quinta da Regaleira through that lens, others assert that no concrete evidence supports such claims.
Carvalho Monteiro’s profound cultural background, religious devotion, and unwavering support for the monarchy are evident throughout Quinta da Regaleira.
And thus, Quinta da Regaleira came into existence
Its owner envisioned Quinta da Regaleira, the palace, and gardens, which appear to have sprung from a fairy tale, and found in Luigi Manini the perfect collaborator for its realization.
What CM articulated, Luigi Manini meticulously recorded and brought to life.
As we explore Quinta da Regaleira, we encounter remnants of Carvalho Monteiro’s personality, and only by considering the characteristics of its original owner, coupled with the expertise of its architect, can we truly grasp the purpose behind each element.
To conclude about Quinta da Regaleira
I hope this brief text has piqued your curiosity to visit Quinta da Regaleira. I aspire to serve as your guide through this monument in the gallery of my favorites.
The Sistelo walkways represent one of the numerous walkway constructions in Portugal.
As implied by the name, these walkways are located in Sistelo, or more precisely, one end of them connects with this village.
Determining the exact length of this walkway proves challenging, as it is unclear where to commence and conclude measurements.
Furthermore, defining the points from which measurements are taken becomes even more problematic when a length is provided.
Sistelo Walkways – bathing in the river Vez
Walking the Sistelo Walkways
So, I’ll state that from the point where we depart from the road until we reach the center of Sistelo, the distance is 6 km.
This is the distance we must traverse if we request a taxi to transport us to the “start” of the walkway. (1)
Additionally, considering the direction towards Sistelo, there is an elevation gain of 250 m and an elevation loss of 160 m.
The route proves highly captivating as it predominantly follows the crystal-clear waters of the Vez River.
Along the way, there are numerous resting spots and opportunities for river bathing, provided the weather conditions permit.
Irrespective of the day’s temperature, the river waters remain consistently cold – almost freezing.
This route has served me well as a pre-planned destination, ideal for its length and pavement type.
Moreover, it has served as an escape from the sweltering heat experienced on trails in Gerês, partly due to its ample shade coverage.
In the photograph below, I am depicted with a group of fellow hikers enjoying a refreshing river bath, seeking relief from the heat… it was truly spectacular.
(1)
The length of the Sistelo Walkways exceeds what has been mentioned here.
The decision to discuss the above-mentioned 6 kilometers was a personal choice.
Sistelo walkways along the river Vez
Cycling
Under certain conditions, bicycles are permitted on the pathways; however, cycling is prohibited on the Vilela/Sistelo section from July 1st to September 30th.
I chose to cycle from the specified starting point to Arcos de Valdevez, a distance of just 16 kilometers but deemed worthwhile.
On the same day, I added approximately 45 kilometers more to my ride, extending it close to Viana do Castelo on another route. I will detail this journey in a separate post.
Near Sistelo, the river valley narrows compared to the area closer to Arcos de Valdevez, and the terrain becomes steeper.
Upon reaching Arcos de Valdevez, the path becomes flat, and the valley widens.
Sistelo Walkways Map
Concerning walkways in Portugal
Walkway installation sparks hiking controversy.
These individuals are often criticized for their lack of respect for nature when access is made more accessible, among other arguments.
However, these walkways have been highly sought after by less experienced hikers, contributing to Sistelo’s growing popularity.
The introduction of walkways has brought prosperity to the people of Sistelo, which is undoubtedly a positive development.
Indeed, there is room for debate regarding the increased environmental impact resulting from the construction of the walkways.
What do you think?
If you want to embark on this adventure and others like it, you can contact me through my company, Iberactive.
Have fun.
David Monteiro
Note: If you’re passionate about this topic, you might find the Paiva Walkways worth exploring in your reading.
The Paiva Walkways are suspended wooden walkways that meander through the Paiva River gorge, offering breathtaking views of nature’s splendor.
The English translation of what we refer to in Portuguese as “Passadiços do Paiva” is walkways.
I found several translations for “Passadiço” on the Internet: passageway, boardwalk, trailhead, and even catwalk. Here, we’ll call them walkways.
What are the walkways?
Walkways, often constructed from wood, provide easy access to natural areas that might be challenging for less skilled individuals.
Approaching these walkways reveals paved corridors, typically made of wood or other materials, extending through valleys, rivers, or other scenic locations.
Difficulty levels vary based on elevation gain rather than technical obstacles.
Paiva Walkways map
The Passadiços dos Paiva or Paiva Walkways
The “Passadiços do Paiva” specifically span 8700m in length.
This linear route, running from Espiunca to Praia Fluvial do Areinho, involves a 627m elevation gain and 475m elevation loss.
While GPS measurements may have inaccuracies, they offer a general idea of the terrain’s challenges before walking.
Rio Paiva
A success story
Perhaps the most successful case of walkways in Portugal, these walkways inspired the construction of many others.
The decision to build them occurred in 2013, with inauguration at the end of June 2015.
Unfortunately, about two months after the inauguration, a significant fire in September led to their closure for repairs.
They reopened in early 2016, only to suffer another fire in August.
Fully reopened in 2017, they have since been operational.
In 2015, during their two months of operation, they recorded close to 200,000 visits, with some days registering 8,000 visits.
Later, a maximum daily limit of 3,500 visits was imposed due to their popularity.
Despite their success, there have been protests by environmental organizations, citing damage to the ecosystem caused by tourist pressure.
Nevertheless, the success of the Paiva Walkways has encouraged the construction of many others, such as the Sistelo Walkways.
I will share information about some of these walkways I frequently visit.
To conclude
I hope you’re curious about these structures, and I look forward to your visit so we can explore one of these walkways together.
If you want to embark on this adventure and others like it, you can contact me through my company, Iberactive.
