Cova’s walking trail, the volcano at Santo Antão, Cape Verde

Cova's walking trail connecting to Paul Valley

Cova’s walking trail, the volcano at Santo Antão, Cape Verde

While in Santo Antão, Cape Verde, completing the Cova’s walking trail was one of my objectives.

However, I had not yet decided whether to walk it downhill or uphill.

Ultimately, I chose the uphill route because walking downhill tends to strain my knees.

So, I will describe the walk from Cabo da Ribeira to Cova.

The hike between Cova and Cabo da Ribeira in Santo Antão, Cape Verde, is probably the most famous walk on the island.

Cova's walking trail — Cova’s walking trail

Let’s embark on the Cabo da Ribeira to Cova walking trail

As the taxi neared Cabo da Ribeira, situated at the top of the Paúl Valley, I grasped why the locals had advised me against walking uphill from Cova to Cabo da Ribeira, contrary to my preference.

Before me lay the daunting 750-meter ascent from Paul to Cova.

It appeared both challenging and time-consuming, yet unalterable at that moment.

Our driver, Neu, jokingly queried us one last time about our chosen course of action, cautioning, “It might be difficult.”

Having previously researched these trails, such warnings came as no surprise.

Mentally prepared for the arduous task, I anticipated encountering a few fellow travelers.

As I veered off the road, a trail information sign reiterated details I was already acquainted with.

Nonetheless, it was heartening to note Cape Verde’s investment in trail information infrastructure.

During the ascent, we briefly shared the path with a handful of intriguing companions.

A young lad confidently rode a donkey, seemingly unperturbed by the task.

Additionally, a cheerful young couple ascended with evident enjoyment and mutual understanding.

Much of the trail consisted of either dirt or cobblestone paving, with terrain that was uneven yet manageable without excessively tall steps, facilitating both uphill and downhill travel.

Although occasional steeper sections posed potential challenges, especially in wet conditions, the region’s infrequent rainfall and scarcity of water mitigated such concerns.

Progressing steadily uphill, we encountered numerous groups of hikers accompanied by local guides descending from their adventures.

Walking from Cabo de Ribeira to Cova, Santo Antão, Cape Verde

Opportunities for landscape photography

This trail provides numerous opportunities for landscape photography.

However, on that specific day, thick clouds obscured the view, and within moments, the weather deteriorated, completely obscuring my visibility.

The long cobblestone road

The long cobblestone road, depicted in the attached photos, extends on a winding path.

Constructing this centuries-old road was no easy feat when it was initially built.

As I observed it, my mind swirled with thoughts, envisioning the immense effort required to undertake such a monumental task in a country with limited resources like this one.

Undoubtedly, the construction of this road relied heavily on the manual labor of countless Cape Verdeans and the assistance of donkeys transporting materials to remote locations.I express my gratitude to all who contributed to this remarkable endeavor.

Here, we have time on our side

Despite having a schedule to maintain and acknowledging the physical effort required to ascend this walking trail, one can still experience a sense of serenity here.

Time, an abundant resource in this place, is a precious commodity essential for life’s pleasures.

In this environment, there is little rush for nearly anything, mirroring the likely unhurried approach taken in constructing this path.

This walking trail occupies a prominent place in my mind

My maternal family hails from these valleys, specifically the Paul Valley.

As a child, I often heard my parents and uncles discussing this trail as an incredibly challenging endeavor.

Ascending this trail now serves as a tribute to those memories.

Enjoy the walk and photos.

David Monteiro

February 23, 2024December 2, 2024

Ribeira da Torre walking trail, Santo Antão, Cabo Verde

Ribeira da Torre walking trail, Santo Antão, Cape Verde

Ribeira da Torre walking trail, Santo Antão, Cabo Verde

The Ribeira da Torre walking trail fascinated me and ranked among the most beautiful trails I knew in Santo Antão, Cape Verde. However, I found it challenging to walk downhill or uphill.

On the day I tackled it, I hiked the Cabo de Ribeira to Cova trail in the morning, enjoyed a pleasant lunch, and then set out on this trail in the afternoon.

I wouldn’t recommend following my footsteps due to the intense afternoon heat. Nevertheless, given my time constraints, I had no other option.

The beginning of the Ribeira da Torre Walking trail

After relishing a delightful lunch, I set out on my journey.I’ll have to detail that lunch in another post.

Locating the beginning of the trail posed a bit of a challenge.

It took a couple of attempts on similar tracks before I finally found the right one—the one I had been aiming for, naturally.

This path served as the only possible connection with the other side of the valley, originating from Ribeira Grande valley.

From our vantage point at the top, we could see the steep descent to the valley bottom.

It was nearly a 5km downhill journey to reach the end of the valley. But what made it even more daunting was the 1200m of elevation loss we had to navigate.

Nevertheless, the breathtaking view over the Ribeira da Torre valley will forever be etched in my memory as a highlight of my hiking experiences.

Anyone with some walking experience and physical preparation would have found it hard to resist the allure of this scenery.

Challenge accepted.

The Ribeira da Torre walking trail

The Ribeira da Torre walking trail spanned a total of 8km, featuring a diverse terrain with 1300m of elevation loss and 160m of elevation gain.

After lunch, I ventured to an area with relay antennas and explored the surroundings, adding to the overall length of the walk.

In total, I estimated I covered about 2 km before beginning the descent.

The start of the walk presented steep and rugged terrain. Peering down almost vertically, I pondered how to navigate the descent.

Thankfully, steps carved into the rocks provided a solution, offering a more manageable alternative to descending on extremely steep trails.

These steps, though, seemed tailored for giants; even as a tall and naturally long-legged person, I found them challenging. Meanwhile, my hiking companion grumbled with each step.

The descent felt endless, and fatigue became a constant companion

Some sections of the trail offered breathtaking views, resembling balconies jutting out from the slope, while others resembled cobblestone pathways winding along the contours.

Eventually, we reached a flatter area, forming a platform amidst the long descent. Here, we encountered a plantation area teeming with life.

I observed potatoes, cassava, various vegetables, and a stream of water—a source of vitality in this picturesque landscape.

Xoxô

From the top of the valley, I observed the cluster of houses making up the little village named Xoxô.

Beside the village, a majestic rocky pillar stood proudly, towering over the landscape. Its somewhat phallic appearance caught my eye.

I couldn’t shake the thought of the isolation in which these people lived. However, the beauty of the entire scene overwhelmed me.

As I traversed the village, a group of children joyfully surrounded me.

It was clear that we were the highlight of their day, and I couldn’t resist capturing some photos of them.

Interestingly, they weren’t particularly interested in seeing the photos; rather, they were thrilled to be photographed themselves.

The trail was a dream come true for every walker.

Ribeira da Torre, Santo Antão, Cape Verde

The end of the rail

As I approached the end of the walk, fond memories filled me.

In the distance, I spotted the road, and there stood our driver, who had organized our logistical support.

Without Neu, accomplishing these walks would have been impossible, or a logistical nightmare.

I was already yearning to relax and rest. At the trail’s end, I anticipated nothing less than extraordinary.

I was intoxicated by the beauty surrounding me.

Perhaps this sense of relaxation was the perfect mood to prepare me for the delightful scenery I was about to enjoy.

Here is where the Ribeira da Torre Valley joins the Ribeira Grande Valley. It was an area of rainwater accumulation.

The road was elevated a couple of meters to prevent it from being submerged during floods.

If this road were to be cut off, the population of Xoxô would become isolated because it is the only access point by car.

On both sides of the road, numerous plantations added a unique green hue to the landscape, with yams standing out prominently.

This scenario served as a dessert for the photographer who had just completed a dream walk.

David Monteiro

February 6, 2024December 2, 2024

National Tiles Museum

Tiles National Museum in Lisbon

The Tiles National Museum in Lisbon is a majestic testament to Portugal’s profound reverence for tile craftsmanship.

The Museum

The impressive Madre de Deus Convent, dating back to the 16th century, houses the museum.

Enhancing the museum’s collection, the convent’s ornate Baroque architecture provides visitors with an immersive experience.

Upon entry, visitors encounter a meticulously curated collection of centuries-old tiles.

The museum showcases Portugal’s vibrant tile tradition, displaying everything from cathedrals to historic scenes.

Exhibits trace the evolution of the “azulejo,” a traditional Portuguese tile, from Moorish art to Renaissance designs.

The museum boasts one of the world’s most extensive collections of Portuguese tiles, spanning from the 15th century to the present day.

It houses thousands of individual pieces, including decorative panels, architectural elements, and contemporary artworks.

From the convent’s rooftop terrace, visitors enjoy stunning views of Lisbon, gaining deeper insight into Portuguese tile artistry.

This unique perspective on the city’s skyline adds to the museum experience’s overall appeal.

About hand-painted tiles

Hand-painted “azulejos,” employing the majestic majolica technique, are crafted with intricate artistry and precision. Here’s an overview of the production process:

- Skilled artisans begin by selecting ceramic tiles with smooth surfaces, ideal for painting. These “azulejos” serve as the canvas for the elaborate designs.
- Talented artists conceptualize the design, drawing inspiration from cultural motifs or custom requests. They meticulously plan the layout to ensure visual coherence and aesthetic appeal.
- Artists use fine-tipped tools to sketch the design directly onto the “azulejos”. This initial sketch guides the painting process, outlining element placement.
- The artisan applies a base layer of majolica glaze to the tiles before painting, creating a smooth and glossy surface for the paint to adhere to.
- Artists paint the intricate design onto the glazed surface of the “azulejos” using delicate brushes and vibrant ceramic pigments. They create depth and dimension by employing precise brushstrokes and layering techniques.
- After painting, the tiles are left to dry completely, allowing the paint to set and cure. The duration of this process may vary depending on environmental conditions and could take several hours or even days.
- Artisans fire the “azulejos” in a high-temperature kiln, permanently setting the paint and fortifying the ceramic material for durability.
- After firing, artisans address any imperfections and conduct a final inspection to ensure quality assurance for the “azulejos”.
- Skilled artisans carefully pack the approved “azulejos”. These hand-painted majolica designs can adorn walls or floors, and the packaging is done meticulously to ensure their safety during transportation.

Hand-painted tiles in the Tiles National Museum, Portugal

In summary

Skilled artisans laboriously combine artistic skill, precision craftsmanship, and meticulous attention to detail, creating stunning hand-painted ceramic art of “azulejos”.

Our company’s “Hand Painted Tiles Tour” includes a visit to this museum.

Enjoy your visit,

David Monteiro

February 6, 2024December 2, 2024

Batalha Monastery, Portugal

The Batalha Monastery and the Illustrious Generation symbolize Portugal’s cultural and political prowess, leaving a lasting legacy in history.

The Batalha Monastery is a pivotal moment in Portugal’s history, marking a significant architectural achievement and a testament to the era’s cultural and political prowess.

Its construction was not merely an endeavor in masonry but a symbol of the nation’s strength and ambition.

Moreover, the descendants of the monarchs who commissioned this monumental structure were remarkable individuals by the standards of their time.

They were renowned for their intellect, leadership, and cultural patronage, earning them the title of the Illustrious Generation.

Note: Please access here to learn more about a tour of this monument.

Let’s go deeper

To delve deeper into this phenomenon, one must explore the context in which these illustrious figures emerged.

The period was characterized by flourishing art, literature, and exploration, fueled by Portugal’s burgeoning power on the world stage.

The monarchy, supported by a growing middle class and a thriving maritime trade, fostered an environment conducive to intellectual and cultural development.

The Illustrious Generation not only inherited the legacy of their forebears but also expanded upon it, leaving an indelible mark on Portugal’s history.

They patronized the arts, sponsored voyages of discovery, and enacted reforms that propelled the nation forward.

Their influence extended beyond the borders of Portugal, shaping the course of European history and contributing to the Renaissance movement.

Their diplomatic endeavors and strategic alliances solidified Portugal’s position as a global power and paved the way for future generations to follow.

UNESCO classification

The UNESCO classification of the Batalha Monastery acknowledges its architectural and historical significance on a global scale.

This Monastery received UNESCO classification in 1983, affirming its global cultural importance and ensuring its preservation for posterity.

The Batalha Monastery

In conclusion, the Batalha Monastery and the Illustrious Generation represent more than just symbols of a bygone era.

They are reminders of Portugal’s rich heritage and enduring legacy, inspiring future generations.

Enjoy your day,

David Monteiro

Note: Not too far from Batalha Monastery, you can find Óbidos, which is also worth visiting.