Aveiro, Portugal, famed for its picturesque canals, colorful moliceiro boats, and delightful sweets, captivates visitors with its unique charm.
Nestled along the central coast of Portugal, Aveiro emerges as a captivating destination with its unique blend of picturesque canals, vibrant culture, and delicious gastronomy.
The city, often referred to as the “Venice of Portugal,” boasts a lively atmosphere that actively invites exploration.
Aveiro’s iconic feature is its intricate network of canals, crisscrossed by charming bridges, where colorful moliceiro boats glide through the waterways.
This aquatic tapestry paints a vibrant picture, reflecting the city’s maritime heritage and providing a delightful experience for locals and tourists alike.
The city’s active embrace of its maritime identity extends to its historic salt flats, where salt production has been a tradition for centuries.
Aveiro’s river front, Portugal
A few Aveiro’s highlights
At Salinas de Aveiro, visitors can see salt extraction and enjoy panoramic views.
Aveiro Cathedral and Convent of Jesus are notable landmarks showcasing Gothic and Baroque architecture.
The city actively preserves its history while embracing modern influences, creating a dynamic urban landscape.
One of Aveiro’s highlights is the vibrant Mercado do Peixe (Fish Market), where the daily catch becomes a lively spectacle.
The market offers fresh seafood and a glimpse into the city’s authentic daily life.
Gastronomy
Gastronomy plays a crucial role in Aveiro’s allure, with the local cuisine reflecting the region’s maritime bounty.
Traditional dishes like “caldeirada de enguias” and ovos moles tantalize, making Aveiro a gastronomic haven for diverse culinary delights.
Aveiro’s salt mines, Portugal
Other Aveiro’s points of interest
Beyond its culinary delights, Aveiro is a gateway to the nearby beaches of Costa Nova, known for their vibrant striped houses and sandy shores.
The seaside escape offers a relaxing contrast to the bustling city center, providing visitors a well-rounded experience.
To conclude
In essence, Aveiro actively invites exploration with its enchanting canals, rich cultural heritage, and delectable cuisine.
When traveling between Lisbon and Porto, or vice versa, Aveiro stands out as a compelling destination, along with other noteworthy stops like Coimbra and Obidos.
Coimbra, Portugal, is a city steeped in history, boasting an ancient university, charming alleys, historic landmarks, and cultural vibrancy.
Nestled along the Mondego River in central Portugal, Coimbra boasts profound historical significance, cultural richness, and academic prestige.
Coimbra seamlessly intertwines ancient charm with modern vitality, with roots dating back to Roman times.
Coimbra’s University, Portugal
Highlights of Coimbra
Established in 1290, the renowned University of Coimbra actively showcases its enduring legacy through structures like the imposing Joanina Library.
UNESCO World Heritage site with university campus and Royal Palace Alcáçova and São Miguel Chapel.
As visitors wander through the city’s historic center, they encounter narrow alleys, vibrant squares, and atmospheric cafes.
The University Hill, captivating scholars and tourists alike, actively provides panoramic views of the city and river.
Coimbra’s university studens on their traditional attire.
Culture
Santa Cruz Monastery’s Manueline architecture and royal tombs make it a cultural must-see.
Its cultural vibrancy further unfolds through lively traditions.
Fado de Coimbra, a Portuguese music, tells tales of love, longing, and academic experience.
The Queima das Fitas, a spirited student festival marking the end of the academic year, actively draws revelers from far and wide, infusing the city with exuberant energy.
Nature
Beyond its cultural and academic significance, Coimbra showcases natural beauty, exemplified by the verdant Mondego River and the scenic Santa Clara-a-Velha Abbey.
The Jardim Botânico, one of Europe’s oldest botanical gardens, actively provides a tranquil retreat for those seeking a peaceful escape amidst lush greenery.
Gastronomy
Coimbra’s cuisine reflects its rich history, blending traditional Portuguese flavors with academic influences.
Local specialties like chanfana (slow-cooked lamb) and pastéis de Santa Clara (conventual pastries) actively invite visitors to savor the unique gastronomic heritage of the region.
Coimbra, Portugal
To conclude
In essence, this city actively invites exploration, where history, culture, academia, and natural beauty converge to create a captivating tapestry.
When traveling between Lisbon and Porto, or vice versa, Coimbra stands out as a compelling destination, along with other noteworthy stops like Obidos and Aveiro.
Pataniscas and codfish cakes (pastéis de bacalhau) stand as quintessential Portuguese snacks, embodying the country’s culinary heritage.
Bars and restaurants across Portugal readily offer codfish cakes, while pataniscas, although enjoyed nationwide, are particularly popular in Lisbon.
Pataniscas, a Portuguese snack made out of codfish
Cod cakes or Pataniscas?
Cod cakes typically resemble a geometric marvel, taking the form of a conical cylinder with two pointed ends and three flat sides.
Despite its shape defying conventional cylinder standards, it serves as an apt descriptor.
Pataniscas, conversely, manifest as golden biscuits, fried to perfection and roughly the size of a palm.
Beyond their distinct shapes, the fundamental contrast between these snacks lies in their bases.
Cod cakes feature a hearty potato base, rendering them dense and rich, while pataniscas boast a wheat flour base, lending them a lighter texture.
For those curious to delve into the art of crafting these savory delights, detailed recipes for both codfish cakes and pataniscas are available in separate posts and along this text.
Portuguese codfish cakes
Snacks or meals?
Both cod cakes and pataniscas serve dual purposes, acting as both snacks and meals when accompanied by bean rice and salad.
Unveiling the origins of pataniscas and codfish cakes
Their origin, steeped in necessity, arises from the pragmatic need to utilize leftover cod to sustain large families amidst limited resources.
Consequently, the cod employed for these delicacies, termed “second-choice cod,” often deviates from the aesthetically pleasing cuts reserved for main dishes.
Essential steps: preparing cod before culinary usage
It’s crucial to note that Portuguese culinary tradition relies on dry, salted cod, requiring meticulous preparation.
Before use, the cod undergoes a soaking process lasting between 24 to 48 hours, contingent upon each piece’s thickness and the recipe’s requirements.
Once adequately hydrated, the cod is shredded, ready to impart its distinct flavor to these iconic snacks.
More about cod
For further insights into the significance of cod in Portuguese cuisine, I invite you to explore the post Cod or Codfish in Portugal.
Understanding the cultural and culinary intricacies surrounding these snacks gives one a deeper appreciation for Portugal’s gastronomic heritage.
Not familiar with them? That’s no surprise. Pataniscas, akin to cod cakes, are a quintessential Portuguese snack.
History background
The history of these snacks traces back to Portugal’s rich culinary heritage.
Originating as a humble dish, it was likely born out of necessity, utilizing readily available ingredients like codfish, eggs, and flour.
Pataniscas were originally a way to make the most of salted cod, a staple in Portuguese cuisine due to its abundance and long shelf life.
Over time, they evolved into a beloved snack, often enjoyed in taverns and homes across Portugal.
Their popularity spread beyond the country’s borders, becoming a symbol of Portuguese culinary tradition.
Today, pataniscas are celebrated for their simplicity, versatility, and delicious flavor.
Whether served as a snack, appetizer, or main course, they continue to hold a special place in Portuguese cuisine, embodying the country’s cultural heritage and culinary ingenuity.
Salt cod, also known as bacalao, is a dried and salted codfish
How to cook pataniscas
Here’s how you make them:
Ingredients:
300g cod
½ onion (chopped)
3 eggs
100g flour
100 to 150ml cod cooking water
Parsley, salt, pepper, olive oil
Olive or frying oil
Instructions:
Mix cod, eggs, onion, parsley, olive oil, salt, and pepper.
Blend until well combined.
Gradually add flour, stirring until dissolved.
Incorporate cod cooking water.
Adjust water for desired consistency.
Heat frying oil, then spoon portions for frying.
Fry until golden, flipping when one side browns.
Drain on paper towels to remove excess oil.
Ready to enjoy!
Embark on my Traditional food tour and adventure through Lisbon’s rich gastronomic landscape with me.
Let’s savor the authentic flavors of traditional Portuguese cuisine, including pataniscas and an array of other delightful dishes.
Enjoy,
David Monteiro
Note: You may find it interesting to read the following articles:
As a Portuguese, mastering the art of cooking codfish cakes, pastéis de bacalhau, is a culinary skill and a cultural heritage passed down through generations.
You can recreate this beloved dish in your kitchen with a few simple ingredients and precise techniques.
Let’s start with the ingredients
Begin by gathering the following ingredients:
– 200g of codfish (*)
– 400g of boiled potatoes
– 1 chopped onion
– 3 eggs
– 3 cloves of garlic, chopped
– Parsley, olive oil, salt, and pepper
– Olive oil or frying oil
(*) In Portugal, we utilize previously salted and dried codfish, which we subsequently desalt and hydrate before incorporating it into our recipes.
Now, let’s dive into the cooking process:
Prepare the Codfish Stew
Start by making a flavorful stew with the chopped onion and olive oil.
Sauté the onion until it turns golden brown, then add the codfish.
Stir the cod until it crumbles and mixes well with the onion.
Next, add the chopped garlic, being careful not to burn it.
Finish by adding chopped parsley, and turn off the heat.
Combine with Mashed Potatoes
Transfer the cod stew into a large bowl.
Meanwhile, mash the boiled potatoes on a plate.
Not using a food processor is crucial as it may affect the texture.
Instead, use a fork to mash the potatoes by hand, leaving small pieces for added texture.
Mix the mashed potatoes with the cod stew until you achieve a uniform mixture.
Incorporate Eggs
Crack the eggs into the mixture and blend until everything is well combined.
This will bind the ingredients, creating a cohesive mixture ideal for shaping into cakes.
Shape and Fry the Codfish Cakes
Heat olive oil or frying oil in a pan.
Using two spoons, shape portions of the mixture into cylindrical cakes with three flat sides.
Be mindful not to overcrowd the pan.
Fry the codfish cakes until they are golden brown on each side, ensuring not to overcook them.
Once fried, transfer them onto a plate lined with kitchen paper to absorb any excess oil.
Serve and Enjoy
Your homemade codfish cakes are now ready to be served.
Whether as a snack, appetizer, or part of a main course, these savory treats will surely delight your taste buds with their crispy exterior and flavorful interior.
In conclusion, mastering the art of cooking pastéis de bacalhau requires attention to detail and respect for tradition.
With this recipe, you can embark on a culinary journey that celebrates the rich flavors of Portuguese cuisine.
Join me for this adventure
I hope you enjoyed this post.
In Portugal, we also have another snack known as pataniscas.
It offers a distinct flavor and texture compared to codfish cakes. You can explore the contrasts between the two dishes here.
If you’re interested in experiencing this adventure or any other from my repertoire, feel free to contact me via my travel agency, Iberactive
The Portuguese gastronomy significantly iconizes codfish.
I don’t know if there’s a tourist, minimally informed, visiting Portugal who doesn’t know that.
Tourists ask three common questions. Here are my reflections on them.
How do Portuguese people consume codfish, and what are the most popular cod dishes?
What is the reason behind the Portuguese consumption of so much cod, and what is its origin?
Does cod always have a very salty taste when served?
As is customary in many other texts, this text contains a mixture of personal opinions and shallow research from diverse literature.
If interested, you can find the information sources here.
Pataniscas, a Portuguese snack made out of codfish
How do Portuguese people consume codfish, and what are the most popular cod dishes?
When discussing cod in Portuguese gastronomy, we are referring to dry and salted cod.
It is also possible to find fresh cod or cod that is not dry and salted in Portugal. However, locating it can prove challenging.
Fresh cod can be hard to find, and meeting someone who has tasted it in Portugal is rare. It’s more common to find someone who has tried it in London.
As a general rule, cod is typically purchased in its dry and salted form in Portugal.
To prepare cod, it must first be soaked in water to rehydrate and remove the salt.
The duration of hydration depends on various factors, with individual preference being the most significant.
Typically, I calculate a soaking time between 24 to 48 hours, with water changes every 12 hours, depending on the thickness of the cod slices and the desired recipe.
As mentioned, opinions on the best methods vary widely among individuals.
The variety of codfish recipes is extensive.
There are even Portuguese sayings that illustrate the multitude of ways to cook cod, such as “1001, 1000, 365,” or “100 ways to cook cod,” like “the 1001 ways of cooking cod.”
Searching for “ways to cook cod” yields several Portuguese books with varying numbers of recipes.
It’s challenging to determine the most common or popular dishes, but I can provide a list of both dishes and snacks commonly found in restaurants or bars:
Dishes: Cod cooked with chickpeas or boiled potatoes, cod “à lagareiro,” cod “à Braz,” cod “Gomes de Sá” style, codfish with cream, baked cod, golden cod with Spanish sauce, “meia desfeita” of cod, etc.
Snacks: “pastéis de bacalhau,” “pataniscas,” codfish pie, cod “rissóis,” etc.
What is the reason behind the Portuguese consumption of so much cod, and what is its origin?
The reason for consuming so much cod is simple:
for a long time, it has provided a cost-effective source of protein
that is easily preserved
and transported to the interior of the country.
After addressing the aforementioned, the million-dollar question arises: how did this tradition originate and persist, given that cod is not found in Portuguese coastal waters?
As cod consumption has become common in Portugal, most people don’t consider how this tradition started, which made my research on the subject challenging.
I also acknowledge that the answers I found may not represent universal truths, but they offer a plausible explanation.
Before delving into the explanation, allow me to emphasize something that may seem obvious:
to consume dry and salted codfish, one needs a method for drying cod, salt, and cod.
Seemingly straightforward, right? Well, the forthcoming explanation will elucidate why I chose to highlight this fact.
A method for drying cod in Portugal
This is quite evident. Portugal’s favorable weather ensured that there were always ample areas available for drying cod.
Salt
Since the time of the Roman occupation – between the 2nd century BC and the 2nd century AD – Europeans have perceived Portuguese salt as of high quality.
During that era, salt was a rare and highly demanded product, commanding high prices.
It held such significance that it became a form of currency, and the word “salary,” denoting regular payment for services rendered, originated from “salt” – “sal” in Portuguese.
Along the Portuguese coast, numerous salt flats have endured to the present day.
The codfish
The Viking era
Portuguese encountered dry and salted cod through trade with the Vikings during the 9th or 10th centuries.
Although Vikings were often associated with raiding, there were periods when their activities became more commercial.
Portugal’s reliance on merchants for cod prompted the establishment of a fleet to fish in abundant seas.
The oldest documented record of cod fishing is a treaty established with Duarte III of England, authorizing a Portuguese fleet to fish for cod on the English coasts.
The Portuguese Navigator’s time
Portugal’s interest in maritime expansion is well-documented, and the achievements of Portuguese navigators in the 15th and 16th centuries are renowned globally.
In 1424, a Portuguese family acquired a map indicating islands where abundant cod fishing was possible. These islands are now known as Newfoundland and Nova Scotia, Canada.
Consequently, Portuguese ships began voyages to these islands in 1424, establishing colonies.
From this historical event, at least two significant ideas emerge:
– This navigational experience likely laid the groundwork for the knowledge that later contributed to Portuguese proficiency in navigation.
– Portuguese arrival in the American continent predates Christopher Columbus’s voyage in 1492; he was born in 1451.
Portugal’s reliance on merchants for cod prompted the establishment of a fleet to fish in abundant seas.
A gap
Portuguese cod fishing in Terra Nova was suspended between the mid-16th and mid-19th centuries due to various reasons, including their focus on maritime expansion.
More recent times
However, cod consumption in Portugal remained high, with cod mostly fished by the English fleet, with whom the Portuguese maintained close commercial ties.
In the mid-nineteenth century, Portuguese attention returned to cod fishing in Newfoundland and Labrador, leading to a resurgence of ships engaged in this activity.
The 20th century and beyond
Cod fishing regained attention in the twentieth century to reduce Portuguese dependence on English fleet for cod procurement.
That coincides with the beginning of Salazar’s rule, and he was not happy with Portugal’s dependency on the British fleet.
He felt the need to find a way to feed the country.
Salazar’s objectives were clear: to strengthen national capacity for cod capture and processing and to ensure abundant and affordable cod supply to the population.
The Bacalhau (codfish) Campaign was launched to support Portuguese shipowners and establish compulsory recruitment of fishermen.
The campaign achieved success, meeting his two main objectives.
Despite initial successes, achieving these objectives required considerable effort and hardship, particularly for the fishermen involved.
Following the Carnation Revolution on April 25, 1974, Portugal entered a democratic period, accompanied by a progressive increase in cod prices.
Despite being a widely consumed product in Portugal, cod is considered expensive and is not accessible as everyday food, often reserved for special occasions such as the Christmas Eve dinner known as Consoada.
Codfish baked in olive oil with potatoes and olives
Does codfish always have a very salty taste when served?
Cod should not be excessively salty when served. When it is, it indicates poor preparation.
Although this statement may seem assertive and subject to personal taste, it’s crucial to consider the perceived saltiness by those who consume it.
I think serving very salty cod, with few exceptions, is a mistake.
Experiencing a dish with overly salty cod may deter one from enjoying cod in the future, creating a negative impression and hindering future culinary experiences.
In households where cooking is infused with love and care, such occurrences are rare, and if they do happen, it’s usually unintentional.
Of course, there will always be those who enjoy salty food, and that’s perfectly fine.
If a dish isn’t salty enough, salt can always be added to taste, but the opposite is not feasible.
Is it clearer now?
I hope I have provided you with a more concrete understanding of the significance of cod in Portuguese gastronomy and culture.
To learn more about cod and properly taste it, join us for the Traditional food tour.
However, the best way to appreciate it is to taste a well-prepared cod dish and then share your thoughts.
Embark on a Tagus river cruise at Escaroupim, Portugal, and experience endless days.
Escaroupim, perfect for a Tagus river cruise
About Escaroupim
Just a 45-minute drive north of Lisbon, lies the quaint village of Escaroupim, nestled along the left bank of the Tagus River, known as Tejo in Portuguese.
Escaroupim stands as one of the many “aldeias avieiras” dotted along the river. Perhaps you’re unfamiliar with the term “aldeia avieira,” but fear not, for its intricacies will be explored in another article.
River boat at Escaroupim
What is an “aldeia avieira”
An “aldeia avieira” is a traditional riverside village along the Tagus River in Portugal.
These villages were historically inhabited by fishermen and their families, known for their unique architecture and cultural practices.
Today, they offer a glimpse into Portugal’s rich maritime heritage.
Tagus river cruise at Escaroupim
About the river cruise itself
Within this charming traditional village, you have the opportunity to board a boat and set sail on a Tagus river cruise, navigating through a network of winding river canals, where flocks of birds converge for their evening feast—an awe-inspiring spectacle.
Moreover, immerse yourself in engaging narratives about the indigenous birdlife from knowledgeable guides.
Come rain or shine, the boats have covers to shield passengers from the elements.
However, the true magic lies in the timing of your excursion, with the sunset reigning supreme.
Capturing memorable moments on the Tagus River
Keep your camera poised, for you never know when a bird or even a horse will emerge before your lens.
Indeed, I once beheld horses leisurely grazing on the riverbank, their hooves submerged in the water, appearing seemingly out of nowhere around a bend.
Now forewarned: keep your camera at the ready.
Exploring off the beaten path: unveiling hidden gems along the Tagus River
This is an escapade far removed from bustling city crowds, where you can also explore neighboring riverside hamlets known as “aldeias avieiras.”
To enhance your journey, consider indulging in the local gastronomy at a riverside restaurant nearby. You’ll find culinary delights to savor just a short stroll from the pier, where the boats await.
Savor every moment; this will undoubtedly be a day etched in memory.
Embark on this adventure or any other wonderful tour with me at Iberactive.com.
Tour operators, brochures, travel books, and other tourist information sources actively promote Tram 28 as the foremost choice among tourists in Lisbon.
This tram, also known as 28E, holds significance, especially for those waiting at bus stops.
Let’s explore its history.
Why it garners such extensive promotion warrants attention.
Whether riding Tram 28 is truly worthwhile is a question worth exploring.
While there’s much to delve into regarding these topics, the finer details are best reserved for my guided tours.
Lisbon tram
Let’s delve into the history of trams in Lisbon, focusing mainly on Tram 28.
Let’s begin with the inception of Lisbon’s tramway system, which includes the rich history of Tram 28.
On August 31, 1901, the “Companhia de Carris de Ferro de Lisboa” launched the tram services in Lisbon.
Initially, sixteen vehicles traversed a route from Cais do Sodré square to Ribamar in the Algés area, tracing the banks of the River Tagus.
The introduction of trams wasn’t without controversy.
Critics voiced concerns over the perceived breakneck speed of these trams, which could reach up to 12 km/h (7.5 mi/h), a significant pace for the time.
They also decried the trams as perilous to pedestrians and sources of infernal and unhealthy noise.
While such arguments may seem quaint today, they resonated in an era accustomed to animal-drawn carriages.
Despite the initial skepticism, trams swiftly ingrained themselves into the fabric of Lisbon’s daily life.
And the Tram 28 was born
In 1906, the first segment of the iconic Tram 28 route was established.
Over subsequent decades, the route gradually expanded, culminating in its present form, stretching from Campo de Ourique to Martim Moniz, bridging two bustling Lisbon districts by the 1930s.
However, starting from the 1960s, as buses proliferated, the popularity of trams waned.
By the end of that decade, discussions arose about removing trams from circulation entirely.
In the early 1970s, many tracks were already dismantled from public roads, and numerous routes were suspended.
However, the tide turned in 1974 with the aftermath of the Carnation Revolution, which halted many of the country’s structural investments, including plans for expanding the bus fleet in Lisbon.
Decline
Despite this, the city’s population grew, creating a pressing need for more public transportation.
With no available investment for new solutions, the revival of some old trams became imperative, once again rendering them invaluable to society.
In any case, shortly thereafter, the surge in the number of cars in Lisbon, coupled with the acceleration of daily life, and the inherent limitation of trams to increase their speed, compounded by their confinement to rails, led to their gradual decline.
Even now, contemporary trams akin to those found in major European cities have been introduced into circulation.
However, they are limited in number and primarily operate on longer routes, such as the one between Praça da Figueira and Algés.
Why it garners such extensive promotion warrants attention.
Understanding Lisbon makes it clear why this route garners immense popularity.
It winds through picturesque Lisbon districts, characterized by narrow, winding streets, where trams glide slowly along aged steel rails, offering a glimpse of Lisbon’s traditional landscape.
Whether riding Tram 28 is truly worthwhile is a question worth exploring.
The renowned Portuguese poet Fernando Pessoa once remarked, “everything is worthwhile if the soul is not small.”
Whether taking Tram 28 is worth it for you remains subjective, but I can outline some of the trip’s advantages and drawbacks.
Pros:
– Trams like the iconic 28 are emblematic of Lisbon’s charm and character.
– Tram 28 follows a picturesque and informative route, offering a glimpse into the heart of Lisbon.
– Riding these vintage trams can be a delightful experience.
Cons:
– Long queues often form for these trams, potentially consuming significant time, a precious commodity, especially if you have limited days in Lisbon.
– Due to its popularity, Tram 28 can become crowded, detracting from the enjoyment of the ride.
– The bustling environment of Tram 28 can attract pickpockets, posing a risk to passengers’ belongings.
Inna Korneeva Drawings
Inna Korneeva
Before concluding, I extend gratitude to artist Inna Korneeva for the illustrations accompanying this article.
Inna Korneeva, a Russian artist who resided in Portugal for a period, developed a deep affection for our country and culture.
The featured illustration depicts Tram 28, while the one directly above showcases Route 15.
Route 15 closely resembles the inaugural tram route established in Lisbon in 1901.
The illustrations, perfectly suited for this article, pay homage to the trams, capturing their essence in the artist’s work.
For more of Inna Korneeva’s artwork, you can explore her portfolio here.
Embark on a journey to Lisbon and immerse yourself in the experience. Join me for a Private Day Tour.
Upon arriving at Quinta da Regaleira in Sintra, Portugal, visitors naturally want to learn about its history, sculptures, paintings, and interpretations.
They seek to understand the ideals represented, uncover the mysteries behind the artworks, explore the particularities of its architecture, and gather other pertinent information.
Our instinct drives us to delve into Quinta da Regaleira’s depths.
However, merely acquiring such information, while crucial, is insufficient to truly comprehend the monument.
In this case, understanding the life history of its original owner, António Augusto Carvalho Monteiro, becomes essential.
Henceforth, for practicality, António Augusto Carvalho Monteiro will be referred to as Carvalho Monteiro or simply CM, as he frequently identified himself at Quinta da Regaleira.
Quinta da Regaleira, Sintra
The chronological sequence of significant events related to Quinta da Regaleira
To provide context within the historical milieu of Carvalho Monteiro’s life and the construction of Quinta da Regaleira, I present a list of pertinent dates:
– 1848, Nov 27th: Carvalho Monteiro is born in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. – 1859: Carvalho Monteiro travels from Brazil to Portugal. – 1871: Carvalho Monteiro graduates in Law and leaves his degree in Philosophy incomplete. – 1879: Luigi Manini arrives in Portugal. – 1893, Dec 11th: CM purchases Quinta da Regaleira for 25 “contos de réis,” the currency at the time. – 1898: CM commissions the project to Luigi Manini. – 1900: Construction of the palace, chapel, and garden commences. – 1905: Construction of the palace gardens begins. – 1908, Feb 1st: King D. Carlos I is assassinated in Terreiro do Paço, Lisbon. – 1910, Oct 5th: Transition from the monarchy regime to a republic. – 1912: Completion of palace works, chapel, and garden. – 1913, Oct: CM is arrested, implicated in the monarchic attempt of 1913 against the republican Afonso Costa. He is later released. – 1913, Dec 25th: Death of Perpetua Augusta Pereira de Melo, Carvalho Monteiro’s wife. – 1918: Conclusion of the garden’s floral decorations. – 1920, Oct 25th: Carvalho Monteiro passes away at Quinta da Regaleira. – 1949: Waldemar Jara d’Orey purchases Quinta da Regaleira. – 1988, Jan 12th: Sale in favor of Aoki Corporation. – 1997: Sintra City Council acquires Quinta da Regaleira from the Japanese group Aoki Corporation. – 1998: Quinta da Regaleira opens to the public.
Where did his money come from?
I take the opportunity to mention that Carvalho Monteiro’s fortune was inherited from his father. The latter traded precious stones, in addition to other ventures.
Carvalho Monteiro’s social network
To comprehend the work undertaken at Quinta da Regaleira, it’s crucial to consider that during his time at the University of Coimbra, Carvalho Monteiro maintained close friendships with notable figures such as Hintze Ribeiro, Bernardino Machado, Guerra Junqueiro, and other prominent personalities of the era.
As this text will primarily cater to non-Portuguese speakers, I recommend researching the aforementioned names.
Given such friendships, one can infer that Carvalho Monteiro was undoubtedly a man of significant cultural stature.
The mysterious Initiation Well of Quinta da Regaleira
A proclivity for esoteric subjects
As a man of the 19th/20th century, he possessed extensive knowledge of esoteric subjects and maintained a remarkably high general culture, akin to contemporary standards.
Historical records indicate that he spoke Latin with fluency comparable to Portuguese and possessed a unique collection of books by Camões.
A devout Catholic, he staunchly supported the monarchy and maintained a personal friendship with King D. Carlos.
Consequently, when D. Carlos was assassinated on February 1st, 1908, Carvalho Monteiro draped the palace with black and purple crepes for several days in a gesture of reverence.
Carlho Monteiro’s personality
Studies on Carvalho Monteiro depict him as a reserved individual with refined tastes, which he enjoyed in the company of family or friends rather than displaying them ostentatiously.
However, following the establishment of the Republic, CM, being a personal friend of the king and possessing considerable wealth, became the target of a shameful campaign aimed at discrediting him.
Although the campaign achieved some success initially, it appears to have ultimately failed to withstand the test of time.
Those seeking to discredit CM portrayed him as miserly.
Yet, for those who knew him intimately, he was recognized as a profoundly generous individual, albeit cautious in his expenditures and humble in his interactions, yet resolute in his convictions.
Carvalho Monteiro within Lisbon’s social circles
He played a significant role as one of the founding members of the Lisbon Zoo. He anonymously supported various charitable endeavors such as the Misericórdia de Sintra and the artistic initiatives of the Royal Theater of São Carlos.
References to Carvalho Monteiro’s purported affiliation with Freemasonry abound, yet this topic remains a point of contention among scholars.
While many argue for his involvement with Freemasonry and interpret various symbols in Quinta da Regaleira through that lens, others assert that no concrete evidence supports such claims.
Carvalho Monteiro’s profound cultural background, religious devotion, and unwavering support for the monarchy are evident throughout Quinta da Regaleira.
And thus, Quinta da Regaleira came into existence
Its owner envisioned Quinta da Regaleira, the palace, and gardens, which appear to have sprung from a fairy tale, and found in Luigi Manini the perfect collaborator for its realization.
What CM articulated, Luigi Manini meticulously recorded and brought to life.
As we explore Quinta da Regaleira, we encounter remnants of Carvalho Monteiro’s personality, and only by considering the characteristics of its original owner, coupled with the expertise of its architect, can we truly grasp the purpose behind each element.
To conclude about Quinta da Regaleira
I hope this brief text has piqued your curiosity to visit Quinta da Regaleira. I aspire to serve as your guide through this monument in the gallery of my favorites.
The Sistelo walkways represent one of the numerous walkway constructions in Portugal.
As implied by the name, these walkways are located in Sistelo, or more precisely, one end of them connects with this village.
Determining the exact length of this walkway proves challenging, as it is unclear where to commence and conclude measurements.
Furthermore, defining the points from which measurements are taken becomes even more problematic when a length is provided.
Sistelo Walkways – bathing in the river Vez
Walking the Sistelo Walkways
So, I’ll state that from the point where we depart from the road until we reach the center of Sistelo, the distance is 6 km.
This is the distance we must traverse if we request a taxi to transport us to the “start” of the walkway. (1)
Additionally, considering the direction towards Sistelo, there is an elevation gain of 250 m and an elevation loss of 160 m.
The route proves highly captivating as it predominantly follows the crystal-clear waters of the Vez River.
Along the way, there are numerous resting spots and opportunities for river bathing, provided the weather conditions permit.
Irrespective of the day’s temperature, the river waters remain consistently cold – almost freezing.
This route has served me well as a pre-planned destination, ideal for its length and pavement type.
Moreover, it has served as an escape from the sweltering heat experienced on trails in Gerês, partly due to its ample shade coverage.
In the photograph below, I am depicted with a group of fellow hikers enjoying a refreshing river bath, seeking relief from the heat… it was truly spectacular.
(1)
The length of the Sistelo Walkways exceeds what has been mentioned here.
The decision to discuss the above-mentioned 6 kilometers was a personal choice.
Sistelo walkways along the river Vez
Cycling
Under certain conditions, bicycles are permitted on the pathways; however, cycling is prohibited on the Vilela/Sistelo section from July 1st to September 30th.
I chose to cycle from the specified starting point to Arcos de Valdevez, a distance of just 16 kilometers but deemed worthwhile.
On the same day, I added approximately 45 kilometers more to my ride, extending it close to Viana do Castelo on another route. I will detail this journey in a separate post.
Near Sistelo, the river valley narrows compared to the area closer to Arcos de Valdevez, and the terrain becomes steeper.
Upon reaching Arcos de Valdevez, the path becomes flat, and the valley widens.
Sistelo Walkways Map
Concerning walkways in Portugal
Walkway installation sparks hiking controversy.
These individuals are often criticized for their lack of respect for nature when access is made more accessible, among other arguments.
However, these walkways have been highly sought after by less experienced hikers, contributing to Sistelo’s growing popularity.
The introduction of walkways has brought prosperity to the people of Sistelo, which is undoubtedly a positive development.
Indeed, there is room for debate regarding the increased environmental impact resulting from the construction of the walkways.
What do you think?
If you want to embark on this adventure and others like it, you can contact me through my company, Iberactive.
Have fun.
David Monteiro
Note: If you’re passionate about this topic, you might find the Paiva Walkways worth exploring in your reading.
