Cod or codfish in Portugal

Salt cod, also known as bacalao, is a dried and salted codfish

Cod or codfish in Portugal

The Portuguese gastronomy significantly iconizes codfish.

I don’t know if there’s a tourist, minimally informed, visiting Portugal who doesn’t know that.

Tourists ask three common questions. Here are my reflections on them.

- How do Portuguese people consume codfish, and what are the most popular cod dishes?
- What is the reason behind the Portuguese consumption of so much cod, and what is its origin?
- Does cod always have a very salty taste when served?

As is customary in many other texts, this text contains a mixture of personal opinions and shallow research from diverse literature.

If interested, you can find the information sources here.

Pataniscas, a Portuguese snack made out of codfish

How do Portuguese people consume codfish, and what are the most popular cod dishes?

When discussing cod in Portuguese gastronomy, we are referring to dry and salted cod.

It is also possible to find fresh cod or cod that is not dry and salted in Portugal. However, locating it can prove challenging.

Fresh cod can be hard to find, and meeting someone who has tasted it in Portugal is rare. It’s more common to find someone who has tried it in London.

As a general rule, cod is typically purchased in its dry and salted form in Portugal.

To prepare cod, it must first be soaked in water to rehydrate and remove the salt.

The duration of hydration depends on various factors, with individual preference being the most significant.

Typically, I calculate a soaking time between 24 to 48 hours, with water changes every 12 hours, depending on the thickness of the cod slices and the desired recipe.

As mentioned, opinions on the best methods vary widely among individuals.

The variety of codfish recipes is extensive.

There are even Portuguese sayings that illustrate the multitude of ways to cook cod, such as “1001, 1000, 365,” or “100 ways to cook cod,” like “the 1001 ways of cooking cod.”

Searching for “ways to cook cod” yields several Portuguese books with varying numbers of recipes.

It’s challenging to determine the most common or popular dishes, but I can provide a list of both dishes and snacks commonly found in restaurants or bars:

Dishes: Cod cooked with chickpeas or boiled potatoes, cod “à lagareiro,” cod “à Braz,” cod “Gomes de Sá” style, codfish with cream, baked cod, golden cod with Spanish sauce, “meia desfeita” of cod, etc.

Snacks: “pastéis de bacalhau,” “pataniscas,” codfish pie, cod “rissóis,” etc.

What is the reason behind the Portuguese consumption of so much cod, and what is its origin?

The reason for consuming so much cod is simple:

- for a long time, it has provided a cost-effective source of protein
- that is easily preserved
- and transported to the interior of the country.

After addressing the aforementioned, the million-dollar question arises: how did this tradition originate and persist, given that cod is not found in Portuguese coastal waters?

As cod consumption has become common in Portugal, most people don’t consider how this tradition started, which made my research on the subject challenging.

I also acknowledge that the answers I found may not represent universal truths, but they offer a plausible explanation.

Before delving into the explanation, allow me to emphasize something that may seem obvious:

to consume dry and salted codfish, one needs a method for drying cod, salt, and cod.

Seemingly straightforward, right? Well, the forthcoming explanation will elucidate why I chose to highlight this fact.

A method for drying cod in Portugal

This is quite evident. Portugal’s favorable weather ensured that there were always ample areas available for drying cod.

Salt

Since the time of the Roman occupation – between the 2nd century BC and the 2nd century AD – Europeans have perceived Portuguese salt as of high quality.

During that era, salt was a rare and highly demanded product, commanding high prices.

It held such significance that it became a form of currency, and the word “salary,” denoting regular payment for services rendered, originated from “salt” – “sal” in Portuguese.

Along the Portuguese coast, numerous salt flats have endured to the present day.

The codfish

The Viking era

Portuguese encountered dry and salted cod through trade with the Vikings during the 9th or 10th centuries.

Although Vikings were often associated with raiding, there were periods when their activities became more commercial.

Portugal’s reliance on merchants for cod prompted the establishment of a fleet to fish in abundant seas.

The oldest documented record of cod fishing is a treaty established with Duarte III of England, authorizing a Portuguese fleet to fish for cod on the English coasts.

The Portuguese Navigator’s time

Portugal’s interest in maritime expansion is well-documented, and the achievements of Portuguese navigators in the 15th and 16th centuries are renowned globally.

In 1424, a Portuguese family acquired a map indicating islands where abundant cod fishing was possible. These islands are now known as Newfoundland and Nova Scotia, Canada.

Consequently, Portuguese ships began voyages to these islands in 1424, establishing colonies.

From this historical event, at least two significant ideas emerge:

– This navigational experience likely laid the groundwork for the knowledge that later contributed to Portuguese proficiency in navigation.

– Portuguese arrival in the American continent predates Christopher Columbus’s voyage in 1492; he was born in 1451.

Portugal’s reliance on merchants for cod prompted the establishment of a fleet to fish in abundant seas.

A gap

Portuguese cod fishing in Terra Nova was suspended between the mid-16th and mid-19th centuries due to various reasons, including their focus on maritime expansion.

More recent times

However, cod consumption in Portugal remained high, with cod mostly fished by the English fleet, with whom the Portuguese maintained close commercial ties.

In the mid-nineteenth century, Portuguese attention returned to cod fishing in Newfoundland and Labrador, leading to a resurgence of ships engaged in this activity.

The 20th century and beyond

Cod fishing regained attention in the twentieth century to reduce Portuguese dependence on English fleet for cod procurement.

That coincides with the beginning of Salazar’s rule, and he was not happy with Portugal’s dependency on the British fleet.

He felt the need to find a way to feed the country.

Salazar’s objectives were clear: to strengthen national capacity for cod capture and processing and to ensure abundant and affordable cod supply to the population.

The Bacalhau (codfish) Campaign was launched to support Portuguese shipowners and establish compulsory recruitment of fishermen.

The campaign achieved success, meeting his two main objectives.

Despite initial successes, achieving these objectives required considerable effort and hardship, particularly for the fishermen involved.

Following the Carnation Revolution on April 25, 1974, Portugal entered a democratic period, accompanied by a progressive increase in cod prices.

Despite being a widely consumed product in Portugal, cod is considered expensive and is not accessible as everyday food, often reserved for special occasions such as the Christmas Eve dinner known as Consoada.

Codfish baked in olive oil with potatoes and olives

Does codfish always have a very salty taste when served?

Cod should not be excessively salty when served. When it is, it indicates poor preparation.

Although this statement may seem assertive and subject to personal taste, it’s crucial to consider the perceived saltiness by those who consume it.

I think serving very salty cod, with few exceptions, is a mistake.

Experiencing a dish with overly salty cod may deter one from enjoying cod in the future, creating a negative impression and hindering future culinary experiences.

In households where cooking is infused with love and care, such occurrences are rare, and if they do happen, it’s usually unintentional.

Of course, there will always be those who enjoy salty food, and that’s perfectly fine.

If a dish isn’t salty enough, salt can always be added to taste, but the opposite is not feasible.

Is it clearer now?

I hope I have provided you with a more concrete understanding of the significance of cod in Portuguese gastronomy and culture.

To learn more about cod and properly taste it, join us for the Traditional food tour.

However, the best way to appreciate it is to taste a well-prepared cod dish and then share your thoughts.

Enjoy your meal.

David Monteiro

November 27, 2020December 2, 2024

Tagus river cruise at Escaroupim, Portugal

Escaroupim, Portugal, some days are forever

Embark on a Tagus river cruise at Escaroupim, Portugal, and experience endless days.

Escaroupim, perfect for a Tagus river cruise

About Escaroupim

Just a 45-minute drive north of Lisbon, lies the quaint village of Escaroupim, nestled along the left bank of the Tagus River, known as Tejo in Portuguese.

Escaroupim stands as one of the many “aldeias avieiras” dotted along the river. Perhaps you’re unfamiliar with the term “aldeia avieira,” but fear not, for its intricacies will be explored in another article.

What is an “aldeia avieira”

An “aldeia avieira” is a traditional riverside village along the Tagus River in Portugal.

These villages were historically inhabited by fishermen and their families, known for their unique architecture and cultural practices.

Today, they offer a glimpse into Portugal’s rich maritime heritage.

About the river cruise itself

Within this charming traditional village, you have the opportunity to board a boat and set sail on a Tagus river cruise, navigating through a network of winding river canals, where flocks of birds converge for their evening feast—an awe-inspiring spectacle.

Moreover, immerse yourself in engaging narratives about the indigenous birdlife from knowledgeable guides.

Come rain or shine, the boats have covers to shield passengers from the elements.

However, the true magic lies in the timing of your excursion, with the sunset reigning supreme.

Capturing memorable moments on the Tagus River

Keep your camera poised, for you never know when a bird or even a horse will emerge before your lens.

Indeed, I once beheld horses leisurely grazing on the riverbank, their hooves submerged in the water, appearing seemingly out of nowhere around a bend.

Now forewarned: keep your camera at the ready.

Exploring off the beaten path: unveiling hidden gems along the Tagus River

This is an escapade far removed from bustling city crowds, where you can also explore neighboring riverside hamlets known as “aldeias avieiras.”

To enhance your journey, consider indulging in the local gastronomy at a riverside restaurant nearby. You’ll find culinary delights to savor just a short stroll from the pier, where the boats await.

Savor every moment; this will undoubtedly be a day etched in memory.

Embark on this adventure or any other wonderful tour with me at Iberactive.com.

David Monteiro

November 25, 2020December 2, 2024

Tram 28, Lisbon, Portugal

Tour operators, brochures, travel books, and other tourist information sources actively promote Tram 28 as the foremost choice among tourists in Lisbon.

This tram, also known as 28E, holds significance, especially for those waiting at bus stops.

- Let’s explore its history.
- Why it garners such extensive promotion warrants attention.
- Whether riding Tram 28 is truly worthwhile is a question worth exploring.

While there’s much to delve into regarding these topics, the finer details are best reserved for my guided tours.

Let’s delve into the history of trams in Lisbon, focusing mainly on Tram 28.

Let’s begin with the inception of Lisbon’s tramway system, which includes the rich history of Tram 28.

On August 31, 1901, the “Companhia de Carris de Ferro de Lisboa” launched the tram services in Lisbon.

Initially, sixteen vehicles traversed a route from Cais do Sodré square to Ribamar in the Algés area, tracing the banks of the River Tagus.

The introduction of trams wasn’t without controversy.

Critics voiced concerns over the perceived breakneck speed of these trams, which could reach up to 12 km/h (7.5 mi/h), a significant pace for the time.

They also decried the trams as perilous to pedestrians and sources of infernal and unhealthy noise.

While such arguments may seem quaint today, they resonated in an era accustomed to animal-drawn carriages.

Despite the initial skepticism, trams swiftly ingrained themselves into the fabric of Lisbon’s daily life.

And the Tram 28 was born

In 1906, the first segment of the iconic Tram 28 route was established.

Over subsequent decades, the route gradually expanded, culminating in its present form, stretching from Campo de Ourique to Martim Moniz, bridging two bustling Lisbon districts by the 1930s.

However, starting from the 1960s, as buses proliferated, the popularity of trams waned.

By the end of that decade, discussions arose about removing trams from circulation entirely.

In the early 1970s, many tracks were already dismantled from public roads, and numerous routes were suspended.

However, the tide turned in 1974 with the aftermath of the Carnation Revolution, which halted many of the country’s structural investments, including plans for expanding the bus fleet in Lisbon.

Decline

Despite this, the city’s population grew, creating a pressing need for more public transportation.

With no available investment for new solutions, the revival of some old trams became imperative, once again rendering them invaluable to society.

In any case, shortly thereafter, the surge in the number of cars in Lisbon, coupled with the acceleration of daily life, and the inherent limitation of trams to increase their speed, compounded by their confinement to rails, led to their gradual decline.

Even now, contemporary trams akin to those found in major European cities have been introduced into circulation.

However, they are limited in number and primarily operate on longer routes, such as the one between Praça da Figueira and Algés.

Why it garners such extensive promotion warrants attention.

Understanding Lisbon makes it clear why this route garners immense popularity.

It winds through picturesque Lisbon districts, characterized by narrow, winding streets, where trams glide slowly along aged steel rails, offering a glimpse of Lisbon’s traditional landscape.

Whether riding Tram 28 is truly worthwhile is a question worth exploring.

The renowned Portuguese poet Fernando Pessoa once remarked, “everything is worthwhile if the soul is not small.”

Whether taking Tram 28 is worth it for you remains subjective, but I can outline some of the trip’s advantages and drawbacks.

Pros:

– Trams like the iconic 28 are emblematic of Lisbon’s charm and character.

– Tram 28 follows a picturesque and informative route, offering a glimpse into the heart of Lisbon.

– Riding these vintage trams can be a delightful experience.

Cons:

– Long queues often form for these trams, potentially consuming significant time, a precious commodity, especially if you have limited days in Lisbon.

– Due to its popularity, Tram 28 can become crowded, detracting from the enjoyment of the ride.

– The bustling environment of Tram 28 can attract pickpockets, posing a risk to passengers’ belongings.

Inna Korneeva

Before concluding, I extend gratitude to artist Inna Korneeva for the illustrations accompanying this article.

Inna Korneeva, a Russian artist who resided in Portugal for a period, developed a deep affection for our country and culture.

The featured illustration depicts Tram 28, while the one directly above showcases Route 15.

Route 15 closely resembles the inaugural tram route established in Lisbon in 1901.

The illustrations, perfectly suited for this article, pay homage to the trams, capturing their essence in the artist’s work.

For more of Inna Korneeva’s artwork, you can explore her portfolio here.

Embark on a journey to Lisbon and immerse yourself in the experience. Join me for a Private Day Tour.

Carpe diem,

David Monteiro

November 17, 2020July 16, 2025

Quinta da Regaleira and Carvalho Monteiro, Portugal

Quinta da Regaleira and Carvalho Monteiro

Upon arriving at Quinta da Regaleira in Sintra, Portugal, visitors naturally want to learn about its history, sculptures, paintings, and interpretations.

They seek to understand the ideals represented, uncover the mysteries behind the artworks, explore the particularities of its architecture, and gather other pertinent information.

Our instinct drives us to delve into Quinta da Regaleira’s depths.

However, merely acquiring such information, while crucial, is insufficient to truly comprehend the monument.

In this case, understanding the life history of its original owner, António Augusto Carvalho Monteiro, becomes essential.

Henceforth, for practicality, António Augusto Carvalho Monteiro will be referred to as Carvalho Monteiro or simply CM, as he frequently identified himself at Quinta da Regaleira.

The chronological sequence of significant events related to Quinta da Regaleira

To provide context within the historical milieu of Carvalho Monteiro’s life and the construction of Quinta da Regaleira, I present a list of pertinent dates:

– 1848, Nov 27th: Carvalho Monteiro is born in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.
– 1859: Carvalho Monteiro travels from Brazil to Portugal.
– 1871: Carvalho Monteiro graduates in Law and leaves his degree in Philosophy incomplete.
– 1879: Luigi Manini arrives in Portugal.
– 1893, Dec 11th: CM purchases Quinta da Regaleira for 25 “contos de réis,” the currency at the time.
– 1898: CM commissions the project to Luigi Manini.
– 1900: Construction of the palace, chapel, and garden commences.
– 1905: Construction of the palace gardens begins.
– 1908, Feb 1st: King D. Carlos I is assassinated in Terreiro do Paço, Lisbon.
– 1910, Oct 5th: Transition from the monarchy regime to a republic.
– 1912: Completion of palace works, chapel, and garden.
– 1913, Oct: CM is arrested, implicated in the monarchic attempt of 1913 against the republican Afonso Costa. He is later released.
– 1913, Dec 25th: Death of Perpetua Augusta Pereira de Melo, Carvalho Monteiro’s wife.
– 1918: Conclusion of the garden’s floral decorations.
– 1920, Oct 25th: Carvalho Monteiro passes away at Quinta da Regaleira.
– 1949: Waldemar Jara d’Orey purchases Quinta da Regaleira.
– 1988, Jan 12th: Sale in favor of Aoki Corporation.
– 1997: Sintra City Council acquires Quinta da Regaleira from the Japanese group Aoki Corporation.
– 1998: Quinta da Regaleira opens to the public.

Where did his money come from?

I take the opportunity to mention that Carvalho Monteiro’s fortune was inherited from his father. The latter traded precious stones, in addition to other ventures.

Carvalho Monteiro’s social network

To comprehend the work undertaken at Quinta da Regaleira, it’s crucial to consider that during his time at the University of Coimbra, Carvalho Monteiro maintained close friendships with notable figures such as Hintze Ribeiro, Bernardino Machado, Guerra Junqueiro, and other prominent personalities of the era.

As this text will primarily cater to non-Portuguese speakers, I recommend researching the aforementioned names.

Given such friendships, one can infer that Carvalho Monteiro was undoubtedly a man of significant cultural stature.

The mysterious Initiation Well of Quinta da Regaleira

A proclivity for esoteric subjects

As a man of the 19th/20th century, he possessed extensive knowledge of esoteric subjects and maintained a remarkably high general culture, akin to contemporary standards.

Historical records indicate that he spoke Latin with fluency comparable to Portuguese and possessed a unique collection of books by Camões.

A devout Catholic, he staunchly supported the monarchy and maintained a personal friendship with King D. Carlos.

Consequently, when D. Carlos was assassinated on February 1st, 1908, Carvalho Monteiro draped the palace with black and purple crepes for several days in a gesture of reverence.

Carlho Monteiro’s personality

Studies on Carvalho Monteiro depict him as a reserved individual with refined tastes, which he enjoyed in the company of family or friends rather than displaying them ostentatiously.

However, following the establishment of the Republic, CM, being a personal friend of the king and possessing considerable wealth, became the target of a shameful campaign aimed at discrediting him.

Although the campaign achieved some success initially, it appears to have ultimately failed to withstand the test of time.

Those seeking to discredit CM portrayed him as miserly.

Yet, for those who knew him intimately, he was recognized as a profoundly generous individual, albeit cautious in his expenditures and humble in his interactions, yet resolute in his convictions.

Carvalho Monteiro within Lisbon’s social circles

He played a significant role as one of the founding members of the Lisbon Zoo. He anonymously supported various charitable endeavors such as the Misericórdia de Sintra and the artistic initiatives of the Royal Theater of São Carlos.

References to Carvalho Monteiro’s purported affiliation with Freemasonry abound, yet this topic remains a point of contention among scholars.

While many argue for his involvement with Freemasonry and interpret various symbols in Quinta da Regaleira through that lens, others assert that no concrete evidence supports such claims.

Carvalho Monteiro’s profound cultural background, religious devotion, and unwavering support for the monarchy are evident throughout Quinta da Regaleira.

And thus, Quinta da Regaleira came into existence

Its owner envisioned Quinta da Regaleira, the palace, and gardens, which appear to have sprung from a fairy tale, and found in Luigi Manini the perfect collaborator for its realization.

What CM articulated, Luigi Manini meticulously recorded and brought to life.

As we explore Quinta da Regaleira, we encounter remnants of Carvalho Monteiro’s personality, and only by considering the characteristics of its original owner, coupled with the expertise of its architect, can we truly grasp the purpose behind each element.

What to say more about Quinta da Regaleira?

I hope this brief text has piqued your curiosity to visit Quinta da Regaleira. I aspire to serve as your guide through this monument in the gallery of my favorites.

You can join us for a visit to Quinta da Regaleira along with our Sintra monuments and Cascais Tour.

Enjoy!

David Monteiro

November 16, 2020December 2, 2024

Sistelo Walkways, Portugal

Sistelo Walkways, Portugal

The Sistelo walkways represent one of the numerous walkway constructions in Portugal.

As implied by the name, these walkways are located in Sistelo, or more precisely, one end of them connects with this village.

Determining the exact length of this walkway proves challenging, as it is unclear where to commence and conclude measurements.

Furthermore, defining the points from which measurements are taken becomes even more problematic when a length is provided.

Sistelo Walkways - bathing in the river Vez — Sistelo Walkways – bathing in the river Vez

Walking the Sistelo Walkways

So, I’ll state that from the point where we depart from the road until we reach the center of Sistelo, the distance is 6 km.

This is the distance we must traverse if we request a taxi to transport us to the “start” of the walkway. (1)

Additionally, considering the direction towards Sistelo, there is an elevation gain of 250 m and an elevation loss of 160 m.

The route proves highly captivating as it predominantly follows the crystal-clear waters of the Vez River.

Along the way, there are numerous resting spots and opportunities for river bathing, provided the weather conditions permit.

Irrespective of the day’s temperature, the river waters remain consistently cold – almost freezing.

This route has served me well as a pre-planned destination, ideal for its length and pavement type.

Moreover, it has served as an escape from the sweltering heat experienced on trails in Gerês, partly due to its ample shade coverage.

In the photograph below, I am depicted with a group of fellow hikers enjoying a refreshing river bath, seeking relief from the heat… it was truly spectacular.

(1)

The length of the Sistelo Walkways exceeds what has been mentioned here.

The decision to discuss the above-mentioned 6 kilometers was a personal choice.

Cycling

Under certain conditions, bicycles are permitted on the pathways; however, cycling is prohibited on the Vilela/Sistelo section from July 1st to September 30th.

I chose to cycle from the specified starting point to Arcos de Valdevez, a distance of just 16 kilometers but deemed worthwhile.

On the same day, I added approximately 45 kilometers more to my ride, extending it close to Viana do Castelo on another route. I will detail this journey in a separate post.

Near Sistelo, the river valley narrows compared to the area closer to Arcos de Valdevez, and the terrain becomes steeper.

Upon reaching Arcos de Valdevez, the path becomes flat, and the valley widens.

Concerning walkways in Portugal

Walkway installation sparks hiking controversy.

These individuals are often criticized for their lack of respect for nature when access is made more accessible, among other arguments.

However, these walkways have been highly sought after by less experienced hikers, contributing to Sistelo’s growing popularity.

The introduction of walkways has brought prosperity to the people of Sistelo, which is undoubtedly a positive development.

Indeed, there is room for debate regarding the increased environmental impact resulting from the construction of the walkways.

What do you think?

If you want to embark on this adventure and others like it, you can contact me through my company, Iberactive.

Have fun.

David Monteiro

Note: If you’re passionate about this topic, you might find the Paiva Walkways worth exploring in your reading.

November 1, 2020December 2, 2024

Paiva Walkways, Portugal

Paiva Walkways - Suspended wooden walkways meander through Paiva River gorge

Paiva Walkways, Portugal

The Paiva Walkways are suspended wooden walkways that meander through the Paiva River gorge, offering breathtaking views of nature’s splendor.

The English translation of what we refer to in Portuguese as “Passadiços do Paiva” is walkways.

I found several translations for “Passadiço” on the Internet: passageway, boardwalk, trailhead, and even catwalk. Here, we’ll call them walkways.

What are the walkways?

Walkways, often constructed from wood, provide easy access to natural areas that might be challenging for less skilled individuals.

Approaching these walkways reveals paved corridors, typically made of wood or other materials, extending through valleys, rivers, or other scenic locations.

Difficulty levels vary based on elevation gain rather than technical obstacles.

The Passadiços dos Paiva or Paiva Walkways

The “Passadiços do Paiva” specifically span 8700m in length.

This linear route, running from Espiunca to Praia Fluvial do Areinho, involves a 627m elevation gain and 475m elevation loss.

While GPS measurements may have inaccuracies, they offer a general idea of the terrain’s challenges before walking.

A success story

Perhaps the most successful case of walkways in Portugal, these walkways inspired the construction of many others.

The decision to build them occurred in 2013, with inauguration at the end of June 2015.

Unfortunately, about two months after the inauguration, a significant fire in September led to their closure for repairs.

They reopened in early 2016, only to suffer another fire in August.

Fully reopened in 2017, they have since been operational.

In 2015, during their two months of operation, they recorded close to 200,000 visits, with some days registering 8,000 visits.

Later, a maximum daily limit of 3,500 visits was imposed due to their popularity.

Despite their success, there have been protests by environmental organizations, citing damage to the ecosystem caused by tourist pressure.

Nevertheless, the success of the Paiva Walkways has encouraged the construction of many others, such as the Sistelo Walkways.

I will share information about some of these walkways I frequently visit.

To conclude

I hope you’re curious about these structures, and I look forward to your visit so we can explore one of these walkways together.

If you want to embark on this adventure and others like it, you can contact me through my company, Iberactive.

Carpe diem,
David Monteiro

October 27, 2020December 2, 2024

The origin of the Monastery of Alcobaça, Portugal

Monastery of Alcobaça, a UNESCO World Heritage site, traces its roots to the 12th century as a Cistercian order sanctuary.

The Order of Císter’s origin

The Order of Saint Benedict

To understand why the Monastery of Alcobaça stands where it does, we must delve into the origins of the Order of Saint Benedict, founded in 529 AD at the Abbey of Montecassino.

Guided by the motto “Ora et Labora” (pray and work), these black-robed monks attracted many followers and donations, evolving from a simple existence to wield great power beyond their rightful influence.

The order was deviating from its path

In the 10th century, almost five centuries after the Order had started, Europe experienced chaotic times, with great promiscuity between ecclesiastical power and feudal power.

This distance from the original order principles began to create protests within a group of monks, which some feudal lords shared.

In 910 AD, Guilherme The Pious, Duke of Aquitaine, donated some land to build a Benedictine monastery that would depend solely on Rome’s power.

In this monastery, the dissident monks could create an order to return to the Benedictines’ original purity.

The Order of Cluny

Bernão, Abbot of Baume, assumed leadership of the new Order, now known as the Order of Cluny.

This order emerged as a dominant force in the Middle Ages.

Its independence, fueled by generous donations, led to the supervision of numerous Benedictine monasteries.

However, this prosperity deviated from its founding principles, prompting the birth of the Cistercian Order in 1098.

The Cisterian Order

Led by Robert of Molesme, a select group of monks established the Cistercian Order at Cîteaux Abbey, near Burgundy.

The Benedictine monks of this movement distinguish themselves from other Benedictians by:

– wearing a white habit,

– embracing a life devoid of luxuries,

– and sustaining themselves through field work and prayer.

This movement quickly garnered sponsors among feudal lords, thriving in the burgeoning Portuguese nation in the 12th century.

In Portugal, as in other European kingdoms, Cistercians made two significant contributions:

- introducing the Gothic style, albeit in its nascent stage,
- and pioneering new agronomic concepts through their farms, which became vital conduits for disseminating agricultural practices and culture.

Order of Cistercians in Portugal

In 1139, D. Afonso Henriques, the first king of Portugal, granted João Círita, who would later become Master of the Monastery of São João Baptista of Tarouca, a license to build a Monastery of the Order of Cistercians in Portugal.

During the conquest of Santarém, which concluded in 1147, D. Afonso Henriques dispatched D. Pedro Afonso to France to request intervention from Bernardo de Claraval in Rome to support his claim to the Portuguese crown.

Bernardo of Claraval, a pivotal figure as a Cistercian, played a crucial role at the time.

Studies emphasize Bernardo de Claraval’s intervention in Rome as pivotal to Portugal’s independence.

Historical records raise doubts regarding whether D. Pedro Afonso was D. Afonso Henriques’ half-brother or his illegitimate son.

During the visit to Claraval, it was decided to donate lands to the Order of Císter, where the Monastery of Alcobaça stands today.

The subsequent conquest of Santarém facilitated the construction of the Abbey in Alcobaça, situated 60 km northwest of Santarém.

Afonso Henriques liberated Portugal from the Moors from north to south.

Consequently, following the conquest of Santarém, D. Afonso Henriques continued his southern expansion to secure more territories, underscoring the monks’ crucial involvement in the newly acquired lands of Alcobaça.

Construction of the Alcobaça Monastery

The donation of land to the Order dates back to 1147, shortly after the conquest of Santarém.

Construction of the provisional church commenced in 1152, followed by D. Afonso Henriques formalizing the land assignment to the Cistercian Order in 1153.

The current building’s construction began in 1178, with 1222 marking its completion.

Comparing Alcobaça Monastery with Claraval Abbey, one can observe that the Portuguese monument is a descendant of the French one, showcasing numerous similarities.

This introductory text on the Monastery of Alcobaça aims to whet your appetite for a visit to this magnificent monument.

Would you like to delve deeper into this subject? Join me for one of my Private Tours.

Carpe diem

David Monteiro

October 19, 2020December 2, 2024

The Lusitano Horse at Alter Stud Farm, Portugal

Welcome to the heart of Portugal’s Alentejo region, where the majestic Lusitano horse reigns supreme at the historic Alter Stud Farm.

In Alentejo, the Alter Stud Farm invites you to discover one of the world’s most esteemed horse breeds.

The Alter Stud Farm’s history

Founded in 1748 by King João V, the Alter Stud Farm is a testament to centuries of tradition and dedication.

This storied institution, with its charming cobblestone pathways and elegant architecture, has preserved the purity of the Lusitano lineage for generations.

Here, history meets passion, creating an unparalleled experience for horse enthusiasts and history buffs alike.

The Lusitano horse, known for its grace, strength, and intelligence, thrives in the serene environment of Alter.

Once the prized mounts of Portuguese royalty and warriors, these noble creatures now captivate visitors with their spirited performances and gentle demeanor.

At Alter Stud Farm, you can witness the remarkable bond between horse and rider, a relationship honed through meticulous training and mutual respect.

The Alentejo region

Alentejo’s picturesque scenery provides the perfect backdrop for exploring the rich heritage of the Lusitano.

As you wander through the stud farm, the scent of cork oak and olive trees fills the air, and the rhythmic sounds of hooves on ancient stone transport you to a bygone era.

The farm’s experienced trainers and caretakers offer guided tours that explore Lusitano breeding and the farm’s history.

Immerse yourself in the charm of Alentejo and the elegance of the Lusitano horse at Alter Stud Farm.

Join me for a visit to the Lusitano horse

Whether you’re a seasoned equestrian or a curious traveler, this unique destination promises an unforgettable journey into the heart of Portuguese culture and history.

Come and experience the living legacy of the Lusitano horse, where tradition, beauty, and excellence come together in perfect harmony.

Join me for a private visit to this and other sites. Check out my tours at iberactive.com.

If you don’t see a tour to your preferred destination, we can definitely tailor one to your liking.

David Monteiro

October 19, 2020December 2, 2024

Hot air balloon ride at Alentejo, Portugal

Hot air balloon ride, an unforgettable adventure in Alentejo, Portugal

Hot air balloon ride at Alentejo, Portugal

Embark on an unforgettable adventure with a hot air balloon ride in Alentejo, Portugal.

Though not an obvious choice, this experience promises to leave a lasting impression.

Seized the chance of a hot air balloon ride

I hesitated to take a hot-air balloon trip in Alentejo for a long time, always postponing it until a more opportune moment.

Finally, the stars aligned, and the perfect opportunity presented itself.

Filled with excitement, I seized the chance.

The experience

The experience exceeded all my expectations.

Meeting before sunrise, we prepared to embark on our journey as the first light of day painted the sky.

Everything unfolded perfectly as planned, enhancing the magic of the moment.

Floating above the picturesque landscape, I felt a profound sense of peace.

The serene beauty of Alentejo from above is indescribable, but words like breathtaking and serene come to mind.

Yet, these words only scratch the surface.

To truly grasp the essence, you must experience it yourself.

Where to?

Our journey took us near Monsaraz, offering a stunning view of the Alqueva Dam.

This vantage point revealed Alentejo’s hidden gems, from sprawling vineyards to tranquil waters, all bathed in the soft morning light.

What stands out most is the scenery and the tranquility that envelops you.

The gentle glide of the balloon, the panoramic vistas, and the serene silence create a meditative state, making you feel uniquely connected to the world.

More than just a sightseeing tour

This hot air balloon ride is more than just a sightseeing tour; it’s a journey of the soul.

The awe-inspiring views and the soothing atmosphere make it a deeply rewarding experience.

Each moment spent drifting above Alentejo’s landscapes is etched in my memory, a vivid reminder of the beauty and peace above the hustle and bustle of everyday life.

Join me

A hot air balloon ride in Alentejo is a must-try for an extraordinary adventure that offers visual splendor and inner calm.

Embrace the opportunity and let this serene experience captivate your heart.

If you’re interested in experiencing this adventure or any other from my repertoire, feel free to contact me via my travel agency, Iberactive

Carpe Diem,
David Monteiro

October 19, 2020December 2, 2024

Monsaraz, a medieval village, Portugal

Monsaraz - Where to go and what to see in Portugal

Monsaraz: A Medieval Village in Portugal

Discover the Charm of Monsaraz

Approaching Monsaraz, you immediately notice the extensive vineyards crowned by a massive elevation with a castle and a medieval town at the top.

This village, much older than Portugal, boasts a history stretching back to prehistoric times. It witnessed Roman occupation, Visigothic rule, and Moorish control before becoming part of modern Portugal.

A Rich Historical Tapestry

Monsaraz’s history is a testament to its strategic importance.

The village was first conquered from the Moors in 1167 by Geraldo Geraldes for the first Portuguese king, Afonso Henriques.

Although the Moors briefly retook Monsaraz, the Portuguese permanently reclaimed it in 1232 during the reign of Dom Afonso II.

As you stroll through its narrow streets, you can almost hear the echoes of its medieval past.

The village’s appearance remains unchanged from five centuries ago, aside from modern sanitary and electrical infrastructure.

A National Monument

In 1946, authorities declared Monsaraz a National Monument, recognizing its sturdy castle walls.

From these ancient fortifications, you can admire the vastness of the Alqueva Dam.

Inaugurated in 2004, the dam spans 250 km² at full capacity, making it the largest artificial lake in Western Europe.

The breathtaking view from the castle walls offers a stunning contrast between the medieval village and the modern engineering marvel.

A Village of Wonders

Monsaraz gained significant tourist attention in 2017 when it won the “7 Wonders of Portugal” contest in the villages category.

The village’s architecture, characterized by shale walls and lime coatings, gives it a distinctive white and prestigious appearance.

This charming aesthetic, combined with its rich history, makes Monsaraz a must-visit destination.

Exploring Beyond Monsaraz

While Monsaraz is captivating, don’t miss the opportunity to explore the surrounding Alentejo region.

A short drive away, you’ll find the Alqueva Dam, an engineering feat that provides water and energy and creates a picturesque landscape perfect for outdoor activities.

Taste the Local Flavors

People know the Alentejo region for its culinary delights.

In Monsaraz, savoring a traditional lamb stew or “migas” (a dish made from leftover bread) is a delightful experience.

Pair your meal with a visit to the Esporão Wine Cellar, where you can taste some of Portugal’s finest wines.

The local Sharish Gin, crafted with regional botanicals, also offers a unique and refreshing spirit.

Experience Monsaraz

Explore the village of Monsaraz in depth.

Take the time to wander its historic streets, soak in the panoramic views from its castle walls, and indulge in the rich flavors of the Alentejo region.

This medieval gem’s blend of history, culture, and natural beauty promises an unforgettable experience.

I hope to guide you through this charming town soon.

If you’re interested in experiencing this adventure or any other from my repertoire, feel free to contact me via my travel agency, Iberactive

David Monteiro