Hiking to Cape Roca, Europe’s mainland westernmost point, Portugal

Hiking to Cape Roca offers a breathtaking trail and stunning views, perfect for those passionate about landscape photography.

Quite close to Lisbon lies Europe’s mainland westernmost point, Cape Roca.

The cape also sits near Sintra, and many Sintra, tours incorporate a visit there.

Please check our company’s tours here.

Cape Roca’s coordinates are 38° 46’49.59″N 9° 29’56.19″W. As depicted in the featured photo of this article, it perches atop a high point and boasts impressive sea landscape views, naturally befitting its status as a cape.

Accessible by car, consider indulging in a spectacular walking experience if you love hikes and have the time.

This hike is one of the most spectacular hikes near Lisbon.

You can explore both north and south from Cape Roca on foot.

Two different walks, logistics

For a clearer breakdown, I’ll categorize the hikes into two sections:

1) Southward: From Forte do Guincho to Cape Roca

2) Northward: From Cape Roca to the Dinosaurs’ footprints

Please note: The concept is to hike south or north, passing Cape Roca. However, you can either reach Cape Roca and continue on one trail or something similar.

This isn’t a loop trail but a linear one, so there’s always the challenge of returning to the starting point or finding transportation from the endpoint.

If you’re hiking with friends and have at least two vehicles, you can leave one car at the endpoint and, upon arrival, drive back to retrieve the vehicles left at the starting point.

Alternatively, you can consider taking a bus back to the starting point.

Armeria pseudarmeria

Along the trails, you can try to find a rare flower, the Armeria pseudarmeria.

This species is at risk of extinction because tourists pick it up due to its beauty during blooming and because it only grows along these cliffs, a somewhat restricted area.

Geology

If you are interested in geology, granite is king in this area. Along the coast, you will find magnificent cliffs, often higher than 150m/492ft (+/-) and high tall standalone rocks looking like coastal guardians searching for the enemy boats at the horizon.

About the walking trails

I use these trails to assess Portuguese guests’ fitness to the mountain tours I promote.

Walking these trails at a slow pace can be considered to have a moderate difficulty level.

However, by increasing the speed, just a little bit, the difficulty level of these trails will increase and become strenuous.

On the other hand, the terrain, on both paths, is uneven, with gravel and not suited for inexperienced walkers.

Be sure to wear walking boots and take walking poles with you. You might need them.

Also, at specific points, you will find some higher steps that will require you to grab on something, like a branch or a rock.

Although one can not consider these situations as rock climbing, they can represent an obstacle for less experienced people.

Let’s check the two trails

1) South: Hiking to Cape Roca from Forte do Guincho

Hiking to Cape Roca from Forte do Guincho is a classic on Lisbon’s outskirts.

Nearly every adventure organization, whether a company, association, or informal group, has embarked on this journey.

It’s a captivating route, one I never tire of traversing, and it offers unique charms depending on the season.

I vividly recall my inaugural hike in June 2000, on what felt like the hottest day of the year.

The trail meanders through valleys, covering 8 kilometers and an elevation gain of 830 meters. It presents continuous ascents and descents.

Commencing at the 17th-century Forte do Guincho, part of Portugal’s coastal defense line established after the Dec’1640 revolution, the route offers various paths, creating length and terrain variances.

As it’s a linear trail, returning to the starting point poses a logistical challenge, but groups with two vehicles can strategically leave one at the endpoint.

Alternatively, one can explore bus options, though schedules may be limited.

For those seeking a return journey, the coastal walk offers captivating vistas in both directions.

However, it’s essential to consider the trail’s difficulty, as walking it one way is moderate, while covering it twice is strenuous.

Notable along the route are the ruins of Espinhaço Fortress, constructed during the 17th-century Restoration War.

2) North: from Cape Roca to Dinosaurs footprints

This walk closely resembles the one previously described but is shorter and features more Points of Interest (POIs).

Covering a distance of 6.1 km (3.8 mi) with a 600 m elevation gain, it commences at Cape Roca, near the parking lot, positioned on the left side of the road.

Once you embark on the right track, the route becomes predominantly clear.

However, attention is required when traversing Ursa Beach, the first beach encountered, as both the descent to and ascent from the beach are steep and potentially slippery.

En route to Adraga Beach, the trail leads to Fojo, a sizable hole providing a panoramic view of the sea—exercise caution in this area.

The journey culminates at the dinosaurs’ footprints if undertaken one-way.

During inclement weather, exercise caution on the wooden steps, as they may become slippery. Key POIs include Ursa Beach, ideal for long exposure photography,

Fojo, a notable geological feature, Adraga Beach, boasting white sands and a sea-view restaurant offering fresh seafood, and the dinosaurs’ footprints, featuring 66 imprints dating back 110 to 115 million years; note that ongoing restoration efforts are underway due to a wall collapse.

Note: The end of this trail lacks coffee shops, restaurants, or any other infrastructure, only featuring some houses. If you require dining options, either backtrack to Adraga Beach, approximately 1.5 km from the trail’s end, or continue along the path for an additional 1 km to reach Praia Grande. At Praia Grande, several restaurants and bars are available, and you can also access bus services from there.

To conclude

Well, I hope you enjoy the walks as much as I do.

If you want to embark on this adventure or others like it, please contact me.

Have fun.

Carpe diem,

David Monteiro

November 17, 2020December 2, 2024

Quinta da Regaleira and Carvalho Monteiro, Portugal

Quinta da Regaleira and Carvalho Monteiro

Upon arriving at Quinta da Regaleira in Sintra, Portugal, visitors naturally want to learn about its history, sculptures, paintings, and interpretations.

They seek to understand the ideals represented, uncover the mysteries behind the artworks, explore the particularities of its architecture, and gather other pertinent information.

Our instinct drives us to delve into Quinta da Regaleira’s depths.

However, merely acquiring such information, while crucial, is insufficient to truly comprehend the monument.

In this case, understanding the life history of its original owner, António Augusto Carvalho Monteiro, becomes essential.

Henceforth, for practicality, António Augusto Carvalho Monteiro will be referred to as Carvalho Monteiro or simply CM, as he frequently identified himself at Quinta da Regaleira.

The chronological sequence of significant events related to Quinta da Regaleira

To provide context within the historical milieu of Carvalho Monteiro’s life and the construction of Quinta da Regaleira, I present a list of pertinent dates:

– 1848, Nov 27th: Carvalho Monteiro is born in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.
– 1859: Carvalho Monteiro travels from Brazil to Portugal.
– 1871: Carvalho Monteiro graduates in Law and leaves his degree in Philosophy incomplete.
– 1879: Luigi Manini arrives in Portugal.
– 1893, Dec 11th: CM purchases Quinta da Regaleira for 25 “contos de réis,” the currency at the time.
– 1898: CM commissions the project to Luigi Manini.
– 1900: Construction of the palace, chapel, and garden commences.
– 1905: Construction of the palace gardens begins.
– 1908, Feb 1st: King D. Carlos I is assassinated in Terreiro do Paço, Lisbon.
– 1910, Oct 5th: Transition from the monarchy regime to a republic.
– 1912: Completion of palace works, chapel, and garden.
– 1913, Oct: CM is arrested, implicated in the monarchic attempt of 1913 against the republican Afonso Costa. He is later released.
– 1913, Dec 25th: Death of Perpetua Augusta Pereira de Melo, Carvalho Monteiro’s wife.
– 1918: Conclusion of the garden’s floral decorations.
– 1920, Oct 25th: Carvalho Monteiro passes away at Quinta da Regaleira.
– 1949: Waldemar Jara d’Orey purchases Quinta da Regaleira.
– 1988, Jan 12th: Sale in favor of Aoki Corporation.
– 1997: Sintra City Council acquires Quinta da Regaleira from the Japanese group Aoki Corporation.
– 1998: Quinta da Regaleira opens to the public.

Where did his money come from?

I take the opportunity to mention that Carvalho Monteiro’s fortune was inherited from his father. The latter traded precious stones, in addition to other ventures.

Carvalho Monteiro’s social network

To comprehend the work undertaken at Quinta da Regaleira, it’s crucial to consider that during his time at the University of Coimbra, Carvalho Monteiro maintained close friendships with notable figures such as Hintze Ribeiro, Bernardino Machado, Guerra Junqueiro, and other prominent personalities of the era.

As this text will primarily cater to non-Portuguese speakers, I recommend researching the aforementioned names.

Given such friendships, one can infer that Carvalho Monteiro was undoubtedly a man of significant cultural stature.

The mysterious Initiation Well of Quinta da Regaleira

A proclivity for esoteric subjects

As a man of the 19th/20th century, he possessed extensive knowledge of esoteric subjects and maintained a remarkably high general culture, akin to contemporary standards.

Historical records indicate that he spoke Latin with fluency comparable to Portuguese and possessed a unique collection of books by Camões.

A devout Catholic, he staunchly supported the monarchy and maintained a personal friendship with King D. Carlos.

Consequently, when D. Carlos was assassinated on February 1st, 1908, Carvalho Monteiro draped the palace with black and purple crepes for several days in a gesture of reverence.

Carlho Monteiro’s personality

Studies on Carvalho Monteiro depict him as a reserved individual with refined tastes, which he enjoyed in the company of family or friends rather than displaying them ostentatiously.

However, following the establishment of the Republic, CM, being a personal friend of the king and possessing considerable wealth, became the target of a shameful campaign aimed at discrediting him.

Although the campaign achieved some success initially, it appears to have ultimately failed to withstand the test of time.

Those seeking to discredit CM portrayed him as miserly.

Yet, for those who knew him intimately, he was recognized as a profoundly generous individual, albeit cautious in his expenditures and humble in his interactions, yet resolute in his convictions.

Carvalho Monteiro within Lisbon’s social circles

He played a significant role as one of the founding members of the Lisbon Zoo. He anonymously supported various charitable endeavors such as the Misericórdia de Sintra and the artistic initiatives of the Royal Theater of São Carlos.

References to Carvalho Monteiro’s purported affiliation with Freemasonry abound, yet this topic remains a point of contention among scholars.

While many argue for his involvement with Freemasonry and interpret various symbols in Quinta da Regaleira through that lens, others assert that no concrete evidence supports such claims.

Carvalho Monteiro’s profound cultural background, religious devotion, and unwavering support for the monarchy are evident throughout Quinta da Regaleira.

And thus, Quinta da Regaleira came into existence

Its owner envisioned Quinta da Regaleira, the palace, and gardens, which appear to have sprung from a fairy tale, and found in Luigi Manini the perfect collaborator for its realization.

What CM articulated, Luigi Manini meticulously recorded and brought to life.

As we explore Quinta da Regaleira, we encounter remnants of Carvalho Monteiro’s personality, and only by considering the characteristics of its original owner, coupled with the expertise of its architect, can we truly grasp the purpose behind each element.

To conclude about Quinta da Regaleira

I hope this brief text has piqued your curiosity to visit Quinta da Regaleira. I aspire to serve as your guide through this monument in the gallery of my favorites.

You can join us for a visit to Quinta da Regaleira along with our Sintra monuments and Cascais Tour.

Enjoy!

David Monteiro

January 9, 2020December 2, 2024

Sintra, what to do and where to go, Portugal

Sintra, what to do and where to go

Are you facing the dilemma of having too many options when you only have one day to visit Sintra? Let me help you.

Sintra is a profoundly romantic environment, and its palaces, which seem to have come out of a Walt Disney fairy tale, are internationally known.

They authentically tell stories and also carry our history until the present day.

National Palace of Sintra — Sintra what to do – visiting the National Palace is a compelling option.

Sintra, the Portuguese capital of Romanticism

It is called the Portuguese capital of Romanticism, and it presents a possible scenario from the Romantic period.

Every time I visit Sintra, I fantasize about elegant 19th-century gentlemen strolling along its streets, accompanied by their mistresses carrying small and long umbrellas.

Yes, I intentionally refer to mistresses, as during the 19th century, it was common for elegant men to maintain a chalet and a mistress in Sintra.

This is not a matter of right or wrong but rather a reflection of history.

Were the umbrellas meant to shield their holders from the harsh sun or prying eyes?

I’ll leave you to ponder that question.

Eça de Queiroz

Eça de Queiroz, one of my favorite Portuguese writers, could certainly weave a tale involving a secret couple hosting the gentleman’s best friend and his beloved at their chalet for tea or dinner in the evening.

Such a romantic subplot could easily feature in a novel by Eça de Queirós, a prominent 19th-century Portuguese writer.

“Os Maias” is one of his famous novels, which many of my generation had to study during high school.

Significant portions of Eça de Queirós’ book are set in Sintra and Lisbon.

Sintra during the 19th century

Significant events occurred during the 19th century in Sintra.

Additionally, Sintra’s warm summer climate and the often-present haze contribute to creating its mystical and romantic atmosphere.

Walking in Sintra effectively transports you to the romantic ambiance of the 19th century.

This period was so pivotal to Sintra that it’s difficult to imagine the place without the events that unfolded during that time.

To elucidate, here are some notable events:

1808: The signing of the Convention of Sintra concluded the first French invasion.
- 1808: Lord Byron’s visit to Sintra.
- 1838: Ferdinand II acquired the Convent of Nossa Senhora da Pena (now Pena Palace) and the Moorish Castle.
- 1858: Major reconstruction efforts at Monserrate.
- 1887: Inauguration of the Lisbon-Sintra train line.
- 1892: The sale of Quinta da Regaleira to António Augusto de Carvalho Monteiro by the barons of Regaleira.

This concise list showcases significant landmarks and monuments in Sintra today.

These events also contribute to the romanticized image of the village.

For instance, Lord Byron’s visit to Sintra, known for his famous version of Don Juan and other works that celebrated Sintra as a romantic destination, exemplifies this connection.

Sintra, World Heritage Site by UNESCO

UNESCO classified the cultural landscape of Sintra as a World Heritage Site in 1992, marking a crucial milestone in its global promotion.

Sintra, a “must-visit” destination

Sintra has become a “must-visit” destination for travelers considering Portugal.

It is conveniently located less than an hour away from Lisbon by train, with the journey starting from Rossio train station in the heart of Lisbon.

Traveling by train is a straightforward, fast, and economical option compared to driving.

Navigating Sintra by car can be frustrating for those unfamiliar with the area.

Parking is challenging, and heavy tourist traffic may hinder reaching the historical center.

Upon arrival in Sintra, visitors are encouraged to visit the Tourist Office.

The staff at the Tourist Office are known for their exceptional friendliness and professionalism.

They will provide you with various options for your day’s activities.

What to visit?

The main challenge lies in selecting attractions to visit with only half a day or one day available.

While this website typically offers various walking options, I will focus solely on monuments for now.

With numerous monuments to choose from and limited time, deciding can be daunting. The selection depends on personal preferences.

Here’s a summary of key points for each destination for those with limited time:

- The National Palace of Sintra or Pena Palace
- The Moorish Castle
- The Quinta da Regaleira
- Sintra village itself

I apologize for omitting other spectacular monuments; however, a selection had to be made.

The duration of your visit will vary based on your interests and attention to detail. For example, a photographer may spend more time than a casual observer.

While I won’t delve into the specifics of each monument, you can find ample information online or in travel guides.

Instead, I’ll provide a general overview of what to expect and approximate visit durations to assist in planning your time effectively.

The National Palace of Pena

The National Palace of Pena, also known as Pena Palace, and its Park consist of two main areas: the Palace and the Park.

Visiting the Palace typically takes an hour and a half to two hours, while exploring the Park can take forty-five minutes to one hour.

The Palace

During the 16th century, builders constructed a monastery in honor of Saint Jerónimo.

The 1755 earthquake, which devastated Lisbon, severely damaged the monastery.

As a result of the earthquake, the remaining monks left the monastery.

In the first half of the 19th century, King Fernando II, who served as regent alongside Queen D. Maria II, purchased and transformed the monastery ruins into the monument visitors can explore today.

Born in Vienna, Austria, King Fernando II brought both modern and classic architectural concepts from Northern Europe to Portugal, shaping the Palace according to his foreign vision.

Through this grand project, he aimed to demonstrate his commitment to Portugal and his worthiness as a consort to Queen D. Maria II, who hailed from one of Europe’s oldest royal bloodlines.

The Park

The Park offers an ideal setting for a leisurely stroll.

Visitors can enjoy serene lakes, elevated viewpoints providing scenic vistas of the lush woodland and rugged terrain, and stunning panoramic views of the sea.

Within the Park, you’ll encounter a diverse array of captivating trees and plants, some of which are not indigenous to the region.

Following the 19th-century trend of incorporating exotic species into gardens and parks, D. Fernando introduced numerous unfamiliar plant species to Portugal.

Additionally, a sizable pond, completed with swans and their distinctive shelters, was constructed.

A highlight of the Park is the Giant, a statue that offers a breathtaking vantage point overlooking Pena Palace and its surroundings.

The National Palace of Sintra

The National Palace of Sintra stands out as one of the iconic landmarks of the village, featured prominently in numerous brochures.

Its distinctive feature, the two massive chimneys, makes it easily recognizable.

Situated in the heart of the village’s bustling tourist area, it is often called the “Palácio da Vila” (Village’s Palace).

One significant reason to prioritize a visit to this monument is its convenience.

While it is undeniably a spectacular place with rich historical significance, its central location makes it ideal for those with limited time.

A typical visit lasts about an hour and a half.

What makes this monument particularly fascinating is its sense of traversing its entire history during the tour.

Having stood since the 14th century, with significant renovations in the 15th century, it offers a unique glimpse into different eras.

As a former Royal Palace, it boasts beautifully adorned rooms, such as the coat of arms room, each brimming with historical significance.

One of the tour’s highlights is the kitchen, which provides a captivating glimpse into the past, particularly with its distinctive chimneys that have become iconic features of the village’s skyline.

The Moorish Castle

The Moorish Castle, as its name suggests, was mostly constructed during the Moorish occupation period.

While there is limited evidence, some speculate that this site may have initially housed constructions from the Visigothic era.

Strategically positioned for military purposes, it occupies the highest area on the outskirts of Sintra.

Visitors from the castle can capture numerous photo opportunities overlooking Sintra and, notably, the Pena Palace, which is often regarded as one of the most photographed spots from this vantage point.

Being a medieval castle, visitors should expect a Spartan environment.

Occasionally, temporary exhibitions may be found in some of the castle’s rooms.

A typical visit to the Castle lasts approximately one hour.

The Quinta da Regaleira

I must express my admiration for Quinta da Regaleira for several compelling reasons.

Beyond its status as an extraordinary monument, Quinta da Regaleira embodies the realization of a dream—a vision brought to life by an individual who was neither a King nor an Aristocrat but the son of a merchant.

This is a testament to the notion that personal fortunes can be utilized to create enduring legacies.

Accessible within a ten-minute walk from the historic center of Sintra, a visit to this site typically lasts one and a half to two hours.

Towards the end of the 19th century, Carvalho Monteiro acquired Quinta da Regaleira from the barons of Regaleira.

With the technical expertise of the Italian stage designer and architect Luigi Manini, he constructed this unique palace.

As a travel and monument guide myself, I always recommend guided tours.

For Quinta da Regaleira, this suggestion is particularly crucial. Understanding the significance of this monument often requires the insights provided by a knowledgeable local guide.

Within the premises of Quinta da Regaleira, visitors can explore various points of interest, including the Regaleira Tower, the Palace, the Chapel of the Holy Trinity, the Initiatic Well, and the garden.

Undoubtedly, Quinta da Regaleira holds a special place among my favorite spots in Sintra.

Perhaps one day, I may even have the pleasure of guiding you through its enchanting grounds.

Sintra what to do: visiting the illage itself it is very pleasant

The village of Sintra

The village of Sintra epitomizes romanticism in Portugal.

Sintra bustles with tourists exploring its narrow streets, yet a short stroll and a taste of its renowned pastries are essential experiences before departing the area.

Understanding Sintra’s ambiance requires some insight into 19th-century Portugal, particularly Lisbon.

Upon arrival at the village center from the train station, the imposing Sintra’s National Palace, distinguished by its two large chimneys, commands attention.

The heart of the village lies at the Palace Square.

Allocate approximately one hour to explore the village.

For guidance and efficient time management, visit the tourist office to collect urban walking leaflets.

Regardless of your chosen route, there are certain highlights not to be missed:

- Indulge in the traditional delicacies: “Queijadas de Sintra” (Sintra’s cheesecakes) and “Travesseiros” (Pillows), typically available at the Periquita coffee shop.
- Sample other lesser-known traditional treats such as “Fofos de Belas,” “Agualvas,” and “Nozes Douradas.”

If you plan to dine in Sintra, seek out a restaurant offering local dishes such as:

- “Leitão de Negrais” (Negrais-style suckling pig),
- Roasted Lamb,
- Sintra’s beef, or
- one of the many freshly grilled fish options.

To conclude

In conclusion, it’s important to note that the aim of this post is not to provide a comprehensive description of all the monuments or attractions in Sintra.

Rather, the goal is to offer some information to assist you in deciding what to see or do during your visit.

If you want to join me for a guided tour at Sintra, please check here for more information.

You can find extensive literature about each monument online.

Enjoy your day!

David Monteiro