Ribeira da Torre walking trail, Santo Antão, Cabo Verde

The Ribeira da Torre walking trail fascinated me and ranked among the most beautiful trails I knew in Santo Antão, Cape Verde. However, I found it challenging to walk downhill or uphill.

On the day I tackled it, I hiked the Cabo de Ribeira to Cova trail in the morning, enjoyed a pleasant lunch, and then set out on this trail in the afternoon.

I wouldn’t recommend following my footsteps due to the intense afternoon heat. Nevertheless, given my time constraints, I had no other option.

The beginning of the Ribeira da Torre Walking trail

After relishing a delightful lunch, I set out on my journey.I’ll have to detail that lunch in another post. 

Locating the beginning of the trail posed a bit of a challenge. 

It took a couple of attempts on similar tracks before I finally found the right one—the one I had been aiming for, naturally.

This path served as the only possible connection with the other side of the valley, originating from Ribeira Grande valley.

From our vantage point at the top, we could see the steep descent to the valley bottom.

It was nearly a 5km downhill journey to reach the end of the valley. But what made it even more daunting was the 1200m of elevation loss we had to navigate.

Nevertheless, the breathtaking view over the Ribeira da Torre valley will forever be etched in my memory as a highlight of my hiking experiences.

Anyone with some walking experience and physical preparation would have found it hard to resist the allure of this scenery. 

Challenge accepted.

The Ribeira da Torre walking trail

The Ribeira da Torre walking trail spanned a total of 8km, featuring a diverse terrain with 1300m of elevation loss and 160m of elevation gain.

After lunch, I ventured to an area with relay antennas and explored the surroundings, adding to the overall length of the walk.

In total, I estimated I covered about 2 km before beginning the descent.

The start of the walk presented steep and rugged terrain. Peering down almost vertically, I pondered how to navigate the descent.

Thankfully, steps carved into the rocks provided a solution, offering a more manageable alternative to descending on extremely steep trails.

These steps, though, seemed tailored for giants; even as a tall and naturally long-legged person, I found them challenging. Meanwhile, my hiking companion grumbled with each step.

The descent felt endless, and fatigue became a constant companion

 Some sections of the trail offered breathtaking views, resembling balconies jutting out from the slope, while others resembled cobblestone pathways winding along the contours.

Eventually, we reached a flatter area, forming a platform amidst the long descent. Here, we encountered a plantation area teeming with life.

I observed potatoes, cassava, various vegetables, and a stream of water—a source of vitality in this picturesque landscape.

Xoxô

From the top of the valley, I observed the cluster of houses making up the little village named Xoxô.

Beside the village, a majestic rocky pillar stood proudly, towering over the landscape. Its somewhat phallic appearance caught my eye.

I couldn’t shake the thought of the isolation in which these people lived. However, the beauty of the entire scene overwhelmed me.

As I traversed the village, a group of children joyfully surrounded me.

It was clear that we were the highlight of their day, and I couldn’t resist capturing some photos of them.

Interestingly, they weren’t particularly interested in seeing the photos; rather, they were thrilled to be photographed themselves.

The trail was a dream come true for every walker.

The end of the rail

As I approached the end of the walk, fond memories filled me.

In the distance, I spotted the road, and there stood our driver, who had organized our logistical support.

Without Neu, accomplishing these walks would have been impossible, or a logistical nightmare.

I was already yearning to relax and rest. At the trail’s end, I anticipated nothing less than extraordinary.

I was intoxicated by the beauty surrounding me.

Perhaps this sense of relaxation was the perfect mood to prepare me for the delightful scenery I was about to enjoy.

Here is where the Ribeira da Torre Valley joins the Ribeira Grande Valley. It was an area of rainwater accumulation.

The road was elevated a couple of meters to prevent it from being submerged during floods.

If this road were to be cut off, the population of Xoxô would become isolated because it is the only access point by car.

On both sides of the road, numerous plantations added a unique green hue to the landscape, with yams standing out prominently.

This scenario served as a dessert for the photographer who had just completed a dream walk.

David Monteiro