Sao Jorge Castle, Lisbon, Portugal
The Sao Jorge Castle overlooks Lisbon from its hilltop perch.
Cobbled sidewalks beneath your feet reveal the meticulous craftsmanship of its construction.
Each stone cube, carefully laid, measures no more than three fingers wide, held together by compact sand that both unites them and allows water to seep through.
Adorned with caravels, waves, and geometric shapes in darker stones, the castle’s light-colored stones contrast with occasional hues of dark pink or blue.
Amidst 18th-century architecture, the castle stands as a magnificent protector of the city, dominating the skyline.
Long lines to visit Sao Jorge Castle
Should you brave the long lines to visit? That’s the question.
Fernando Pessoa, the renowned Portuguese poet, famously wrote, “Everything is worthwhile if the soul is not small.”
However, one’s perspective on worthiness depends on personal interests and available time.
I’ve previously explored this question in another article.
If your interests lie in urban art and you have only two days in Lisbon, there are likely better options than the Castle.
Nonetheless, consider engaging a guide for a richer experience if you want to visit.
The Castle of São Jorge holds more than meets the eye.
Without a guide, you’ll see a medieval castle with a stunning view over Lisbon and the Tagus river.
Perhaps you’ll do some research beforehand or bring along a tourist guidebook, discovering that the Castle was conquered by our first king, D. Afonso Henriques, in 1147.
That’s perfectly acceptable.
However, with guiding services, you’ll interpret the breathtaking view and delve into centuries of the monument’s existence, including sieges, earthquakes, and monumental building works.
I won’t delve into the Castle’s entire history here—it’s too vast for this context, and I’m not a historian.
There are excellent books on the subject.
Alternative ways to learn about Lisbon’s castle
Moreover, history books aren’t the only valuable reading before visiting a site.
Novels can ignite our imagination, enhancing tourist experiences.
Picture the Castle’s conquest by the Moors through ‘History of the Siege of Lisbon’ by José Saramago.
Explore key moments in the Castle’s history, offering insights into Lisbon’s diverse wartime scenarios.
Roman Period (BC)
- 138 – Decimus Junius Brutus, a Roman, conquers the future Olisipo (Lisbon), previously Felicitas Julia. He discovers a Celtiberian fortification, enhanced by the Romans.
Post-Roman era witnesses Barbarian and Christian occupations:
- 411 to 418 – Alans occupy without significant resistance.
- 418 to 453 – Visigoths, serving the Roman Empire, conquer the city. Alans retreat to North Africa.
- 457 – Suevi seize the town after tumultuous clashes and shifting alliances with Rome.
- 460 – under King Theodoric II, Visigoths recapture Olissipo by Emperor Avito’s order.
- 469 – Suevi, led by King Remismundo, reclaims Olissipo.
- During the 5th century, the town adopts names like Ulixbuna or Ulixbona.
- 585 – Visigoth King Leovigildo asserts control.
- 6 ?? – Construction of a new fortification (15 hectares / 37 acres) and initial Christian churches commence.
Muslim occupation
- 714/719 – Abd al Aziz Muça’s Muslim army seizes the city, renaming it Ulisbona, Al-Lishbuna, Aschbouna, or Al-Ushbuna, marking the start of Muslim rule.
- 798 – Afonso II (Christian) sacks the town.
- 800 (beginning) – Period of confusion.
- 844- Vikings, with over 100 ships, besiege the Castle for 10 days, damaging walls and looting the area.
- 857 – Another Viking assault fails, leaving scant records.
- 966 – Third Viking attack, repelled by strong Muslim resistance. The Vikings are defeated near Silves, Algarve.
- The city’s name evolves to Lisipona, Lisibona, Lisbona, Lixboa.
- 956 – Ordonho III, king of Leon, plunders Lisbon, damaging the walls.
- 1015/1093 – Moorish taifas of Badajoz and Seville alternately dominate the city.
- 1060 – King Fernando Magno of Leon briefly conquers Lisbon.
- 1109 – Lisbon falls into the hands of Sir, son of Abu Becre, ushering in a period of stability until 1147.
Christian occupation
- 1147 – D. Afonso Henriques, Portugal’s first king, conquers the Castle.
- 1384 – King Juan I of Castile, Spain, lays siege to the Castle. The Spanish army abandons the siege due to a plague outbreak, which devastates the troops and the king.
- No significant wartime events occur after these dates.
Modern era
- In the 1940s, significant rehabilitation efforts are undertaken on the Castle.
To conclude
Romans, barbarians, Moors, and Christians have both constructed and razed this fortress for nearly two millennia.
Some tales of bravery endure, like that of Martim Moniz, a Portuguese captain who sacrificed himself by blocking a door during the Castle’s conquest in 1147, allowing his troops to enter.
Yet, some shameful acts by the Christians during that same event linger as a reminder to avoid repeating such mistakes.
São Jorge Castle is one of the city’s most visited monuments. Whether you choose to explore its history is yours to decide. Regardless, seize the day.
Do you want to learn more about this subject? Please join me for one of my Private Tours.
Enjoy your day.
David Monteiro
PS: In Portuguese, the correct spelling is São Jorge, not Sao, as written in this text. However, I’ve simplified it for your convenience, considering keyboard limitations.