Hiking the Pico Pequeno at Fogo Island, Cape Verde

The ascent to Pico Pequeno on Fogo Island, in Cape Verde, was an excellent surprise.

The hike, initially unremarkable, turned out to be pleasantly surprising with stunning views and unique geological features.

Before the preparation

Before proceeding with this text, I have to explain the following:

- Chã das Caldeiras is a village located in the crater of the large volcano on Fogo Island, at approximately 2000 meters above sea level, where I planned to stay for two nights.
- Pico Pequeno is a small volcanic cone that, like Chã das Caldeiras, is located within the crater of the island’s large volcano and where the lava resulting from the 2014 eruption was expelled.

During the preparation

My main goal in staying two nights in Cha das Caldeiras was to ascend the Pico Grande volcano at 2829 meters.

I would increase the chances of this ascent by staying in Cha das Caldeiras for two nights.

Thus, I would have three days and two nights, and spending one day on the ascent of Pico Grande, two days would remain to fill.

I decided that the hike to the top of Pico Pequeno would take place on the first day since it was between the point where the taxi would drop us off and Cha das Caldeiras.

The trail to ascend Pico Pequeno

The trail to ascend Pico Pequeno starts where the old road that gave access to Cha das Caldeiras ends.

Nowadays, this road is unusable because it was interrupted by three meters of lava expelled during the 2014 eruption.

There is no technical difficulty to consider in this ascent. The trail is clear and constantly and gradually uphill.

When we reach the top of this volcanic cone, we have to surround it from the top if we want to go to Cha das Caldeiras and/or if we want to have a privileged view into the volcanic cone from where the aforementioned lava was expelled.

At the highest point, there were two aspects that caught my attention and that I had not anticipated:

- the beautiful rock formations rich in sulfur,
- and the secondary volcanic reactions manifested through the release of vapors so hot that it made it impossible to sit on the ground to have a snack.

Named Pico Pequeno, this peak makes the nearby large volcano appear gigantic when viewed from here.

Nevertheless, as we are at an altitude that allows us to have a wide view of the large crater.

The descent, although steep and requiring extra attention, does not present major difficulties.

The trail is approximately 6.5 kilometers long with 300 meters of accumulated positive elevation gain.

If you have the opportunity to hike here, I hope you enjoy it.

Carpe diem,

David Monteiro

Fogo Island, Cape Verde

Its designation as "Pequeno" (small or short) is in reference to the immense size and stature of the main volcano.

Fogo Island, Cape Verde

The trail is relatively straightforward and lacks any significant technical challenges.

Fogo Island, Cape Verde

The lava expelled during the 2014 eruption now blankets the old road to Chã das Caldeiras.

Fogo Island, Cape Verde

A sight of Chã das Caldeiras.

Fogo Island, Cape Verde

Capture photographs of the Pico Pequeno trail for this article.

Fogo Island, Cape Verde

Sulfur on rocks lends captivating hues.

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November 28, 2019December 2, 2024

Laginha at sunset, Mindelo, Cape Verde

Laginha Beach, Mindelo's tranquil oasis, sundown serenity.

Laginha at sunset, Mindelo, Cape Verde

Laginha Beach, located in Mindelo, São Vicente, Cape Verde, isn’t just another beach destination—it’s an experience, especially at sunset.

Amidst the golden hour, there’s an undeniable allure that captivates visitors.

Laginha at sunset

Forget the clichés; the magic of this beach at sunset is palpable.

An inexplicable sensation envelops you as the warm waters gently lap against the shore and the sun gracefully dips behind Mount Cara.

The promise of post-swim drinks only adds to the enchantment.

Google “Laginha” and you’ll be inundated with images, though most capture its splendor in daylight.

But it’s at sunset when this beach truly shines.

The beach is serene as the day’s warmth gives way to a gentle coolness, and the relentless wind relents, offering moments of tranquil stillness.

Gather your friends and family

Groups of locals, seemingly rooted to the spot, epitomize Laginha’s carefree spirit. Life unfolds before them, oblivious to the outside world.

Meanwhile, from the shoreline, the twinkling lights of nearby terraces beckon, signaling the start of an evening filled with fried moray and ice-cold beers.

Simple pleasures

Indeed, Laginha epitomizes life’s simple pleasures—a reminder that amidst the chaos, there are moments of pure bliss waiting to be savored.

And as the sun sets over this idyllic beach, casting a warm glow over its sands, one can’t help but feel grateful for such moments of serenity in an ever-changing world.

Music

Laginha Beach in São Vicente, Cape Verde, resonates with vibrant music.

Local musicians infuse the air with rhythmic beats and soulful melodies, reflecting the island’s rich musical heritage.

From traditional morna to lively coladeira, the sounds of São Vicente add to the beach’s allure, creating a harmonious atmosphere.

Have fun,

David Monteiro

November 28, 2019December 2, 2024

Walking along the coast at Santo Antão, Cape Verde

Walking along the coast at Santo Antão, Cape Verde

There is a walk from Cruzinha to Ponta do Sol along the cliff over the sea.

This is one of the best we can have in Santo Antão island.

The winding trail seems to lead us around part of the island.

The ride to Cruzinha by car took us so long I start to doubt if we were going to the right place.

Fortunatly, the GPS confirmed our route as right.

From Ribeira Grande to Cruzinha it’s 25Km by a road that takes almost an hour’s drive.

However, it is a decent hour spent, with more picture opportunities than time to stop.

We crossed places where any traveler wants to stop and appreciate the uniqueness of people and customs.

Being a Cape Verdean and being the home island of much of my family, I feel a constant familiarity.

I began to get lost in the duality between wanting to start the walk and the need I have to stop at every moment.

A blacksmith … how long there haven’t been blacksmiths working like in the old days?

Here, with high skilled precision, old metal is used for new usages.

Around here, tools are scarce, and imported equipment is too expensive for these people’s pockets.

This route takes us to remote and old areas of the island where there are few new houses.

One of the visual problems of the island is the lack of plaster on the exteriors of the buildings. That gives a degrading look to the localities.

Later, during my travels in Cape Verde, I realized it is an overall problem of the country and not only from this island.

Cruzinha has almost no new houses, so it doesn’t suffer from this problem.

Its remote location is both its cross and its blessing.

The path to follow goes along the cliff and starts near the harbor.

The sea was a bit rough, and the fishing boats were waiting for a better opportunity to go catch some fish.

The trail is evident, one can’t miss it.

A well-maintained cobblestone road marks the start of our walk.

I wanted to have a bright day, but the fog was not cooping with me.

You can easily understand we were walking on a path long ago made.

Being so exposed to the sea and still in such good shape can only mean it was initially very well done.

You better see the photos I’m leaving here to understand how the trail is. Otherwise, I will be repeating adjectives like gorgeous, amazing, or impressive.

It is 15.5 km between Cruzinha and Ponta do Sol.

The elevation gain is concentrated almost entirely in a specific passage, between Corvo and Fontainhas.

The trail has a total of 780m of elevation gain, of which 625m are in the referred section.

We have to walk at least halfway to get to Formiga where you can find have a couple of bars where to buy some food and drinks.

After Formiga you will find Corvo and Fontainhas, two tiny villages before reaching Ponta do Sol.

About Fontainhas it is good to read the following:

https://viajes.nationalgeographic.com.es/a/10-pueblos-mejores-vistas-mundo_9109/2

The landscape needs no explanation. Just see the photos.

A resistant fog joined during the walk.

Photos with clear skies will have to wait for a better occasion.

Until then, I keep the memories of one of the most exciting trails I know.

Good walks,

David Monteiro

Santo Antão Island