Without a doubt, all these walks are very impressive.
However, when you analyze their locations, you’ll notice they are all in the island’s interior.
Walking trail in Madeira – Caminho Velho do Rancho
Not promoted coastal walking trails
I found nothing interesting while searching for a coastal trail to hike near Funchal, the island capital.
Although I understand that these slopes are steep, that alone isn’t a sufficient reason for the lack of walking trails because they certainly exist.
I can comprehend that my fellow tour operators primarily promote a specific set of trails, like the levadas, causing others to be forgotten.
Cape Girão, Madeira, Portugal
Walking from Cabo Girão to Lido
Being fond of hiking with sea views, I couldn’t resist visiting Cabo Girão while in Madeira and attempting to return to Funchal, which promised all these elements.
As I prepared for my walk, I found no defined path between Cabo Girão and Funchal, or even to Lido.
The Lido/Funchal section didn’t seem appealing to me for walking.
Despite the absence of a trail and my strong desire to find one, I remained undeterred and decided to explore the area nonetheless.
During the bus journey to Cape Girão, I encountered a gentleman whom, regrettably, I failed to note down his name.
He mentioned he was born and raised in those locales.
This gentleman informed me of a path I could descend from very close to Cape Girão to the entrance of Câmara de Lobos.
Walking trail in Madeira – Caminho Velho do Rancho
The Caminho Velho do Rancho walking trail
I encountered a level of spectacularity beyond my expectations, akin to the wonders depicted in the featured photograph of this text.
The trail, known as “Caminho Velho do Rancho,” is easily located.
Head downhill from Capo Girão towards Câmara de Lobos, keeping as close to the coast as possible, and you’ll find the indications for it.
This path descends sharply amid houses and farmland adorned with corn, strawberries, and various vegetables.
As I descended and gazed at the coastline, I couldn’t help but feel fascinated by the view.
However, navigating the trail isn’t without its challenges.
The slope is so steep that it demands our constant attention, leaving little room for distraction.
Nonetheless, periodic pauses are essential to relish the breathtaking scenery.
This trail is relatively short, with a length of about 1 kilometer and an elevation loss of approximately 200 meters.
Yet, it exudes a rustic charm and offers views fit for royalty.
This duality of characteristics is what lends the walk its allure.
Furthermore, it provides an opportunity to engage with locals without the throngs of tourists often encountered on other trails.
Praia Formosa, Madeira
After walking this short trail and along the coast towards Funchal (Lido)
I continued walking along the coast toward Lido after completing the short trail.
I will write about this second part of the morning in another post.
Walking trail on Madeira – Caminho Velho do Rancho
To conclude
The Caminho Velho do Rancho walking trail, is a must-do trail when we go to Madeira.
Walking from Cape Girao to Lido, Madeira, Portugal
Walking from Cape Girao to Lido, passing through Câmara de Lobos, enables us to explore various locations in Madeira with the tranquility afforded only by walking.
Cape Girão, Madeira, Portugal
Walking from Cape Girao
Some sites claim that Cabo Girão stands about 580m high, making it the tallest cape in Europe.
Being there, I can readily believe it.
On the glass platform, as we peer down at the small fajãs below, we feel as though we’re hovering—except for the set of dots printed on the glass, which completely spoils that sensation.
Okay, I understand; many people need those dots to alleviate their vertigo.
While these dots exist to mitigate the feeling of vertigo, I believe they also detract from the platform’s intended purpose.
Nevertheless, a visit is still worthwhile.
Walking from Cape Girao starts here
Right here is where this walk begins, leading us down to the bathing area of the Lido.
It’s a 9.5 km trek, primarily downhill, quite demanding on the legs.
Following mostly along the coastal line, this route entails a 650m elevation loss.
The journey commences by guiding us along the Caminho Velho do Rancho, as mentioned in another text.
While it provides an excellent start, the remainder of the walk is no less appealing.
Câmara de Lobos
If Câmara de Lobos is on your list of places to visit in Madeira, then this hike offers an excellent means to accomplish that goal.
During this walk, you’ll traverse through Câmara de Lobos on foot, and like myself, you may choose to pause there for lunch.
Explaining the origin of the name Câmara de Lobos, we can refer to the town’s website:
“In 1419, precisely on July 1st, João Gonçalves Zarco and Tritão Vaz Teixeira anchored at Madeira Island, in the Machico area. Upon their arrival on Madeira Island, they began exploring the southern region. On the first day of exploration, they reached this land, which they named Câmara de Lobos due to the abundant presence of sea lions on the south coast.”
In Portuguese, “Câmara de Lobos” translates to an area, bay, or chamber with wolves.
Also in Portuguese, sea lions are called sea wolves, hence the idea of a sea lion chamber.
The numerous bars and restaurants in Câmara de Lobos offer us the opportunity for lunch, with a variety of options to choose from.
You can indulge in your meal at one of these establishments.
Additionally, a wooded area near the fishing port provides a chance for a brief respite in the shade, perhaps enjoying your sandwich while gazing out at the sea. You’ll find a water faucet there, and the water is potable.
Walkway along the sea, near Câmara de Lobos
Towards Formosa Beach
A pathway stretches along the coastline from here to the Formosa Beach area, offering a peaceful and highly picturesque stroll with the sea always to our right.
Praia Formosa, Madeira, Portugal
At the onset of Praia Formosa (Formosa Beach), public restrooms are available.
Given its status as a beach area, if you’ve brought bathing gear, you might also enjoy some time on the beach.
Available restaurants
Immediately beyond this point, you’ll encounter an area with several excellent beachside restaurants.
To cater to all tastes, as we say in Portugal, there are two very distinct restaurants available.
One of the restaurants boasts a more sophisticated appearance, featuring modern design and meticulously presented dishes.
In contrast, the other restaurant offers a more approachable atmosphere, with ample terrace seating and, in my opinion, a selection of more authentic options.
Honestly, the first restaurant failed to impress me. Its menu seemed contrived, overly geared towards tourists… not my cup of tea.
The second restaurant, while somewhat modest, exuded a clean and sincere charm.
Upon perusing its menu, I was pleased to find a range of local options tailored to the tastes of the community.
Can you guess which option I chose? I bet you can.
Limpets at Madeira
A plate of limpets, a bifana in Bolo do Caco, and a couple of beers were my choices to start… Bingo! Everything was delicious and authentic.
Not familiar with bifana? It’s a pork steak sandwich, highly esteemed in Portugal.
After unwinding at the beach, enjoying a snack, or perhaps both, you can continue your journey by passing through the Bathing Area of Ponta Gorda or Poças do Governador.
Poças do Governador offers paid access to sea swimming pools, making it an excellent spot to while away some time.
The walk concludes at the Lido, an area known for its resorts.
Certainly, one could make less flattering remarks about this bustling hub of tourism activity.
Nevertheless, it’s a relatively small area compared to the expanse of the island, and it’s where the island’s tourism industry initially flourished.
It’s all about finding the right balance, and for me, it seems to strike just that.
From here, you have the option to catch a bus or hail a taxi to Funchal, if need be.
Walking from Cape Girão to Lido, Madeira, offers an opportunity to spend your day actively without exerting yourself too strenuously.
Many of the adventures featured on this website can be arranged through my travel agency at Iberactive.com.
The cork stopper is the first thing we see when we open a bottle of good wine, and there is a 50% chance of it being a Portuguese cork.
A bottle of good wine requires a top-quality cork stopper. The cork’s physical characteristics and the sobriety and distinction it adds to the wine are essential.
However, cork has vast applications beyond stoppers.
Nowadays, we find cork used in footwear, clothing, mechanical joints, thermal insulation, acoustic insulation, flooring, steering wheel covers, mobile phone covers, etc.
Please note that Cork has a very discreet but classy presence.
Cork piles from Portugal.
Have you ever wondered where cork comes from?
Well, Portuguese cork is one of the topics that generate the most questions during my tours, alongside questions about wine.
It indicates a specific knowledge about Portugal, considering cork is one of the country’s most important products.
Allow me to present some quantitative data to explain the importance of cork in Portugal and the world:
Portugal produces 49.6% of the world’s cork (100,000 tons, 2010).
Portugal exports € 985.2 million out of a total of € 1578.2 million, representing 62.4% of the world cork market share.
The cork oak is Portugal’s second most prevalent tree, occupying 23% of the forested areas in 2010.
The cork tree with the harvest year painted on it
How is cork made from the cork oak?
I will outline the essential sequence from planting cork oak trees to producing cork stoppers.
However, I need to separate it into four sections: the “montado,” the cork oak, the cork, and the cork stopper.
What is a “montado”
The “montado,” predominantly found in Portugal’s southern region of Alentejo, comprises an ecosystem where cork oaks, holm oaks, livestock, various bird species, and cereal plantations coexist.
It significantly influences Portuguese culture, shaping lifestyle, gastronomy, and traditional music.
Despite its prevalence in Alentejo, cork oaks also thrive in scattered areas across the country.
Notably, the “montado” fosters biodiversity and sustains vital agricultural practices.
During winters, it evokes nostalgia with its golden cereal fields and warm breezes.
Cattle like Alentejo sheep, Mertolenga cows, and black pigs forage on cork oak acorns, enhancing local delicacies. However, not all cork oak clusters constitute a “montado.”
Those lacking a comprehensive ecosystem are termed “sobreiral.”
These areas lack biodiversity and often have trees planted closer together for more intensive cropping.
Despite variations, the “montado” remains integral to Portugal’s identity and environmental sustainability.
It symbolizes the harmonious coexistence of nature and human activity, preserving traditions while supporting modern agricultural practices.
As visitors explore the “montado,” they encounter painted numbers on cork oak trees, marking the last cork stripping year—a testament to its enduring importance and cyclical nature.
Whistler, the oldest cork tree
Facts about cork oaks
The cork oak, scientifically known as Quercus suber, is an oak family tree.
Like other oaks, it bears acorns, which black pigs feed on, enhancing pork taste.
These medium-sized trees, about 15 meters high and never more than 25 meters, can live for 200 years or more.
The oldest cork oak in the world is in Portugal, in Águas de Moura village, called Whistler, or Sobreiro Assobiador in Portuguese, due to the numerous birds often found there.
Whistler was planted in 1783 and stands over 14 meters high.
2018, this Portuguese cork oak won the European distinction of “The Tree Of The Year.”
Since 1820, this cork oak has been stripped about twenty times. In 1991 alone, 1,200 kg of cork was removed, yielding over 100,000 cork stoppers.
Portuguese cork production
The outer layer of the cork oak trunk consists of dead plant cells, known as cork.
Removing cork from the tree does not harm it; it is comparable to trimming nails for humans.
Cork extraction is exclusive to cork oaks.
The process of cork growth is lengthy.
In Portugal, it is believed that cork harvesting from self-planted trees is rare. This is because of the following reasons.
The first stripping occurs when the tree reaches 25 years of age, provided its trunk perimeter is at least 70 cm at a height of 1.3 m from the ground. This yields cork known as “virgin,” with low commercial value.
At 34 years, the second stripping takes place, nine years after the initial one. Although not suitable for cork stoppers, this cork is ideal for granules and other products, termed as “secundeira” or the second one.
Subsequent strippings occur every nine years from the age of 43 and onwards. This cork, known as “amadia” or reproduction cork, possesses the quality required for cork stoppers or other cork products.
Following this, cork-stopper production begins.
Before delving into this, let’s discuss the stripping process.
Stripping cork oaks remains a manual process, with no foreseeable replacement with machinery.
It involves skillfully using an ax to remove large cork boards, done during the hot period from mid-May to late August when temperatures can reach up to 45º C.
The boards are then transported to the factory, where they are boiled to remove impurities and flattened for calibration before being used in production.
Different products are manufactured based on the quality of the boards.
Though I can’t detail all cork products here, let’s focus on cork stoppers. Additionally, I’ve included some informative links for further exploration.
In 2016, Portugal’s cork industry generated a turnover of €1,466 million, with €785 million attributed to the manufacturing of cork stoppers, constituting 53.5% of the cork market in Portugal.
Yes, astonishing!
Did you know that cork stoppers were initially crafted from rectangular cork pieces, which were then manually adjusted to the desired diameter?
It wasn’t until the early 20th century that the machine, known as Galorpa, was invented for this purpose, initiating industrial production of stoppers.
While I won’t delve into the entire production process, two steps stand out:
Visual selection. Although each cork stopper undergoes electronic inspection, human discernment is crucial in determining their quality.
Marking is also vital. Each cork stopper is branded with ink or fire, bearing the distinctive mark of the customer, ensuring the wine’s authenticity upon opening. Now you understand why the sommelier presents you with the cork stopper after opening an expensive bottle of wine.
The well-known commercial threat posed by plastic, rubber stoppers, and metal caps to the cork stopper market persists.
While artificial stoppers are increasingly prevalent in less expensive wines and in many countries, this trend has yet to catch on in Portugal.
However, some cork alternatives, such as the Helix system by Corticeira Amorim, are being introduced to compete against artificial corks, for which I extend my sincerest wishes for success.
Montado area – cork trees and much more
The environmental impact
This section may offer many pleasant surprises.
In an era where the world is increasingly attentive to environmental concerns, understanding how each industry contributes to reducing its ecological footprint is crucial.
The Portuguese cork industry’s contribution couldn’t be more significant, as it absorbs more carbon from the environment than it produces.
According to a document by Corticeira Amorim, the largest cork company in Portugal:
The worldwide scientific community acknowledges that greenhouse gas emissions cause global warming.
Forests play a crucial role in combating this phenomenon by absorbing carbon dioxide through photosynthesis, storing it in trees and soil.
The long lifespan of cork oak trees makes them particularly effective at storing carbon.
Studies comparing cork stoppers to alternatives like aluminum and plastic show that cork is the most environmentally friendly choice, minimizing carbon footprint.
Cork oak forests have the remarkable ability to absorb 14.7 tons of CO2 per hectare, with the Western Mediterranean alone storing around 30.66 million tons of CO2.
To conclude this subject, I’d like to recommend one of the best documentaries I’ve encountered: “BBC Cork Forest in a Bottle.“
I hope my insights have contributed to enhancing your understanding of Portuguese cork and helped you appreciate the cork products available for purchase in Portugal.
To gain a comprehensive understanding of the geographical context in which both Port and Douro wines thrive, I extend an invitation for you to consult this detailed map.
As hinted in the aforementioned article, just before the emergence of Port wine in its present form, there existed a distinct type known as fortified table wine. I won’t delve into the details of this precursor in this post.
With that clarification, let’s delve into the contemporary realm of Port wine as it exists nowadays.
However, it’s essential to note that in the Douro Valley, you’ll encounter both Port wine and Douro wines.
In summary,
Port wine is a fortified wine, and
Douro wine is either still or table wine, depending on your preferred terminology.
For the scope of this post, our primary focus will be on exploring the nuances of Port wine.
Quinta do Crasto Portwine storage, in the Douro Valley, Portugal
The most important grape varieties
Take a moment to check on the labels of Portwine in a supermarket or liquor store.
Upon inspecting the section where grape varieties are listed, you’ll observe that they are the same grapes used in the production of Douro wines.
Naturally, it’s important to acknowledge that while the exact grape varieties may not be identical in every case, after reviewing several labels, you’ll discern the most commonly employed grapes for crafting both Port and Douro wines.
For red wines: Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinto Cão, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Amarela, and Sousão.
For white wines: Códega, Malvasia Fina, Gouveio, Rabigato, Moscatel Galego Branco, and Viosinho.
These grape varieties listed above represent the predominant choices for winemaking across the Douro Valley.
In essence, this implies that both Portwine and Douro wines often share the same grape varieties in their production.
If Portwine and Douro wines are made from the same grapes, what makes these wines to be so different?
The answer lies in the production method.
In a simplified manner, the production of Douro wine follows a series of steps, much like the majority of still wines: harvest -> stomping -> fermentation -> maturation -> bottling.
However, the process takes a distinct turn for Port wine just a couple of days into fermentation.
While the fermentation of Douro wine typically spans six to seven days, the trajectory for Portwine is markedly different.
In the production of Portwine, we deviate from the norm by halting the fermentation process after two or three days, and adding wine spirits.
Throughout this article, I will delve into the criteria for determining the optimal moment to cease fermentation and guide you on the appropriate quantity of wine spirits to incorporate.
Why stop the fermentation?
By halting the fermentation process and introducing wine spirits, we achieve the following:
A naturally sweet wine, relying solely on the sugar from grapes without the need for additional sugars.
A wine with an alcohol content ranging between 19 and 22 degrees (1), achieved through the incorporation of high-quality 77% wine spirits.
Note (1): An exception is noted for a specific type of white Port with 16.5% alcohol.
There exist various types of Portwine, each adhering to its unique production “formula” to achieve the final product we savor.
Here are some insights on determining when to cease fermentation, considering the varying sweetness levels:
For Extra Dry Port (White), fermentation stops when sugar concentration falls below 40g/liter.
Very Sweet Port (White) requires a sugar concentration exceeding 130g/liter.
Most Port wines (Red) typically exhibit a sugar concentration during fermentation between 90 and 130g/liter, with a common range of 100 to 120g/liter.
As fermentation progresses, sugar concentration decreases. The longer the fermentation, the more sugar transforms into alcohol, resulting in lower sugar concentration.
Regarding the addition of wine spirits to the fermented product:
Most barrels, with a 550-liter capacity, see the addition of 115 liters of wine spirits for every 435 liters of fermenting wine, culminating in a final 550-liter product.
Since 2012, the range for adding wine spirits varies from 60 to 120 liters.
The introduction of wine spirits prompts the cessation of yeast fermentation in the wine.
Having done this, do we have Portwine?
This marks the initial phase in the creation of Portwine. However, depending on the specific type of Port we aim to produce, there are additional crucial steps to consider.
Now, let’s delve into the distinctive characteristics of various types of Portwine, seizing the opportunity to elucidate their unique qualities.
Portwine barrel, named “balseiro” in Portuguese
The types of Portwine.
If you conduct an internet search on the various types of Portwine, most articles typically categorize them as Ruby, Tawny, and White.
However, I’d like to take a distinctive approach: Rose or Pink, White, and Red.
There’s a reason behind this choice.
This isn’t a technical article but rather an entertaining one. Based on my experience, I’ve found that people grasp the information more effectively when we begin the explanation from the very basics.
So, let’s embark on this journey from the start.
Rosé Portwine (Pink)
It stands alone without any subcategories.
Crafted from red grapes but with minimal contact with the grape skins during a gentle maceration process.
These wines are best enjoyed in their youth, and, in my view, served at cooler temperatures, ideally between 8 and 10 degrees Celsius.
Rosé Portwine is a versatile choice, often utilized in cocktails or simply served over ice.
To the best of my knowledge, the inaugural Rosé Port to hit the market was Croft Pink, introduced at the onset of the 21st century.
White Portwine
Typically crafted from white grapes, White Portwine offers various subcategories: very dry or extra dry, dry, half-dry, sweet, and ‘lágrima’ (tear), also known as very sweet.
Traditionally, White Portwine is expected to be consumed relatively young, with two to three years of maturation in 20,000-liter barrels or larger, marking the readiness for consumption.
However, contemporary practices have seen some White Port Wines aging for extended periods, reaching the excellence of their well-aged red counterparts.
An intriguing note: as White Portwine ages, it transforms into an amber hue, akin to its aged red counterparts.
White Portwine serves as an exceptional choice for appetizers. Consider pairing a White Portwine, such as Lágrima from Ramos Pinto, with a ‘wedding’—a fig with an almond inside—for an exquisite tasting experience.
In modern times, the trend of enjoying Port Tonics has emerged. This refreshing long drink involves blending ⅓ Extra Dry White Port with ⅔ tonic water, ice, lemon, and a peppermint leaf—a truly top-notch combination. Explore various recipes for this drink, savor the flavors, and share your favorite!
Red Portwine
I’ve saved the discussion on red Portwines for last, as they warrant more extensive and intricate explanations.
Red Port Wines can be broadly categorized into two families: Ruby and Tawny.
All other designations of red Port wines stem from these foundational classifications.
Ruby
Ruby wines, known for a solid red color, mature in large ‘balseiros’ for two to three years. These barrels, resembling half barrels on short legs, hold 20,000 to 125,000 liters.
The slow oxidation in ‘balseiros’ maintains the intense red hue, preventing an undesirable brownish color. Analogous to an apple browning upon exposure, wine undergoes a similar process over time, transitioning from red to brownish or dark amber.
Within the Ruby family, special subcategories like Ruby, Reserva, Late Bottled Vintage (LBV), and Vintage exist. While other subcategories exist, two will be briefly explained without overextending.
Vintage (Ruby)
It’s the highest-rated Portwine, produced from exceptional grapes of a single year, often aging for years or even centuries.
Vintage Port matures for two to three years in a ‘balseiro’ before bottling, containing sediments aiding further evolution.
For optimal taste, it’s advisable to wait three to four years post-bottling before consumption. The history of Vintage intertwines with bottle design evolution, beginning in the 18th century.
If seeking a Portwine for aging, Vintage is a natural choice, pairing excellently with dark chocolate, sharp cheeses, and melon.
LBV – Late Bottled Vintage (Ruby)
Named for being declared vintage but bottled later than regular Vintage, LBV wines often match Vintage quality.
LBV spends four to six years in a vat before bottling. Contrary to Vintage, LBV can be consumed immediately post-bottling but also ages well.
These wines offer Vintage-like quality (almost), ready for immediate consumption, a benefit over waiting for Vintages.
As of my knowledge, Taylor pioneered LBV in 1970, using wines from the 1965 harvest, inspiring other brands.
Tawny
These wines age in oak casks, initially in large barrels for around four years, then in 550-liter barrels for heightened oxidation.
Tawny ports are identifiable by the label, often indicating aging years like 10, 20, or 30.
Tawnys result from blending various lots, showcasing the advertised age characteristics. Despite the label inscription, it signifies the blend’s average age.
Due to slow oxidation, Tawnys exhibit a paler, brownish, or amber color compared to ruby wines.
Old Tawnies are among the priciest Ports. Once bought, Tawny is ready for immediate consumption.
Younger Tawnys make great aperitifs, while older ones pair well with dried fruits, chocolate desserts, cheeses, or just by themselves.
If you have a 30 or 40-year-old Tawny, savor it without distractions. Pause, relax with a friend, and relish.
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I aimed to offer an overview of Portwine, yet topics like:
a little more history of each of the wines and estates;
how does a wine become a vintage;
the importance of the wine-spirits in the Portwine;
the differences between brandy and wine-spirits;
Portwine and the Portuguese culture;
and so much more.
Future posts will delve into these themes.
Carpe Diem
David Monteiro
Websites where you can learn more about Douro wine and Portwine:
Background of the Douro Valley wine region, Portugal
The Douro Valley’s origin, development, and the birth of Port wine constitute a brief yet fascinating history.
What prompted the emergence of the Douro Valley wine region?
It began over 300 years ago.
Despite its youth, the Douro Valley, with vineyards, Port wine, and farms, holds cultural significance.
For Portugal, a nation rich in ancient structures, three centuries hardly classify as old.
Blame Colbert, Louis XIV’s Finance Minister, for initiating the world’s significant mountainous wine region in 1667.
Now, let’s delve into the repercussions of Colbert’s decision and its impact on the region’s evolution.
The Douro Valley and its vineyards and terraces
A brief history of the Douro Valley wine region. The oldest demarcated wine region in the world
In 1667, the Devolution War strained France and England’s relations, adding to their historical conflicts.
This war’s involvement extended beyond Spain and France, drawing in additional countries.
Amid escalating tensions, Jean-Baptiste Colbert, Louis XIV’s Finance Minister, imposed a blockade on English imports.
As expected, Charles II retaliated, imposing stringent restrictions on French products entering England, particularly limiting wine imports.
Consequently, French wine faced a ban from entering British territory, pushing England to seek alternative wine sources.
By the 17th century, England and Portugal’s longstanding relationship, established since the Treaty of Windsor in 1386, became pivotal.
In Viana do Castelo, Portugal, English and Scottish merchants, among others, thrived before the rupture between France and England.
The strained relations prompted the English and Scots, based in Viana do Castelo, to seize an opportunity—exporting Portuguese wines to England.
The first wines to be shipped out
Initially, the shipped wine hailed from the Vinho Verde region, known as the “Portuguese red,” a light and spicy wine.
However, this variety didn’t resonate with the English, accustomed to fuller-bodied, fruity French wines.
To meet demand, merchants turned to the Douro Valley, where a wine, later known as Port wine, became the solution.
Yet, this story does not delve into the Port Wine we recognize today.
With a suitable table wine found in the Douro Valley, merchants faced the challenge of transporting it to Viana do Castelo.
For those unfamiliar with the geography, the Douro Valley concludes at Porto, where the river meets the Atlantic Ocean. Viana do Castelo lies 40 minutes north of Porto.
In the 17th century, supplying wine to Viana do Castelo meant laborious tasks:
1) Transport the barrels along the river Douro until Porto;
2) In Porto, the process involved transferring wine barrels from riverboats to a vessel capable of coastally transporting them to Viana do Castelo;
3) In Viana do Castelo, the barrels were transferred to another ship for transportation to England.
To streamline, merchants moved cellars from Viana do Castelo to Porto, specifically to Vila Nova de Gaia.
Shipping from Porto led to the designation of Port Wine, with the oldest recorded export dating back to 1678.
By 1710, most Viana do Castelo merchants relocated their cellars to Vila Nova de Gaia.
To preserve wine during the trip to England, merchants added spirit, a precursor to fortifying Port wine.
Claims credit the English for Port’s “invention,” yet this fortification process differed from the Portuguese navigators’ 15th-century method.
Did I just say that the English invented Port wine?
Well, well, well:
The process of fortifying this wine differs from the later and current fortification methods used today.
Moreover, to the best of my knowledge, Portuguese navigators in the 15th century had already employed a similar fortification method.
So, the claim appears unsubstantiated.
Returning to the narrative, wine traded for cod gained momentum in 1703 with the Treaty of Methuen—a substantial trade agreement between Portugal and England.
The treaty introduced preferential tariffs for Portuguese wines in England, reciprocated by preferential tariffs on English textiles imported to Portugal.
However, it is essential to note that this agreement faced dissent in Portugal, a topic warranting a separate post.
During this period, brandy was consistently added to wines before shipment, meeting the rising demand in England.
However, the surge in demand led to nefarious practices.
Merchants, attempting to mimic Port, resorted to adding various ingredients like elderberry juice, battery sugar, and pepper to inferior wines.
This deceptive behavior inflicted severe harm on the wine trade, a cornerstone of Portuguese exports.
Consequently, all stakeholders in the wine industry experienced a drastic decline in prices due to fraudulent practices.
His efforts aimed to elevate Portuguese wine to unprecedented levels of quality and recognition.
Allow me to provide some context on Sebastião José de Carvalho e Melo. Following his triumphant response to the Great Earthquake of 1755, he garnered immense power and earned the king’s confidence.
The “Companhia Geral de Agricultura”
In 1756, the Marquis of Pombal established the Companhia Geral de Agricultura e Vinhas do Alto Douro, a state-owned monopoly company. Through this entity, Pombal gained control over the Port wine trade with England and Brazil.
The Marquis of Pombal implemented a forceful but effective strategy: all wine bound for England and Brazil had to pass through the Companhia Geral de Agricultura e Vinhas do Alto Douro.
This company, under Pombal’s control, not only regulated sales prices but also ensured:
– The enhancement of product quality.
– The demarcation of the wine region.
– The profitability of the entire wine trade’s value chain.
Demarcation of the Douro Valley wine region
Pombal simultaneously established the Company and demarcated the Douro Valley wine region, marked by 335 granite pillars.
This demarcation specified the region responsible for providing grapes for Port wine production.
These 335 granite pillars, erected in two phases (201 in 1756 and 134 in 1761), declare the Douro Valley as the world’s oldest demarcated wine region.
In 1757, a survey classified Douro’s vineyards. Quality determined the wine’s fate:
Exceptional quality meant export as “feitoria” wines.
Lower quality destined wines for domestic consumption, termed branch wines.
Today, wine fortification involves adding brandy to halt fermentation, resulting in sweeter Port wines with higher alcohol content than traditional wines.
For deeper insights into Port wine and its production, feel free to explore further by pressinghere.
The widespread adoption of this fortification method began in the latter half of the 18th century, taking nearly a century to gain universal acceptance.
To my knowledge, the first Vintage Port dates back to 1775. However, the definitive turning point came with the 1820 harvest, showcasing modern fortification techniques and unprecedented quality.
The Douro Valley, classified by UNESCO as Worldwide Heritage
Classification of the Douro Valley Wine Region as World Heritage Site by UNESCO
Reflecting on the notion that Colbert’s actions initiated this process, one might jest that the French minister’s measures in 1667 ultimately led to the Douro Valley earning World Heritage Site status in 2001.
Indeed, UNESCO acknowledged 24,600 hectares of the Douro Valley as a World Heritage Site in that year.
Though said in jest, envision the colossal domino effect from 1667 to 2001, connecting pivotal events:
Disruption of France-England trade, initiating Portuguese wine export to England.
Shifting wine trade from Viana do Castelo to Vila Nova de Gaia in the 17th century.
Commencing the sale of Douro Valley wines.
Constructing terraces in the Douro Valley.
Since 1667, remarkable human interventions shaped the Douro Valley, capturing our attention and creating the extraordinary landscape we appreciate today.
The Douro Valley is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the first demarcated wine region in the world
The terraces
Before concluding, an integral aspect of the Valley deserves recognition—the terraces.
Over time, the Douro Valley underwent a transformative journey with the construction of these terraces.
In the present day, terraces form an inseparable part of the Valley, bestowing a unique character upon its landscape.
Though vineyards have adorned the Douro Valley since ancient times—dating back to Roman occupation—their commercial planting emerged only in the 16th century.
Picture the pre-17th century landscape, characterized by slopes covered in cereal fields. Today, our gaze extends across vineyards, neatly arranged in terraces, creating a captivating horizon.
The Douro Valley extending beyond the wine region
The Douro Valley, outside the wine region
Consider exploring the segment of the Douro Valley lying beyond the demarcated wine region.
Contrast this area with the wine-producing region—where vineyards extend across the hills as far as the eye can see.
In contrast, the non-classified Douro Valley boasts greater biodiversity, smaller farms, and a distinct, breathtaking beauty. It’s a visit worth making.
Thus, while we appreciate the Douro Valley landscape, the terraces stand out the most. But who built them?
The origins remain unclear, but before the 17th century, people began constructing terraces.
Detailed records exist for farm (quinta) construction, but terrace development lacks documentation.
Terraces seemed to emerge naturally in the landscape, crafted by hand, mainly by men and children since women didn’t participate then.
Many terrace builders, called “Gallegos,” were Galicians.
Sadly, their names were never recorded, yet their contribution shaped the Douro Valley’s landscape.
Finishing
With this text, I aim to lay the groundwork for understanding the Douro Valley’s inception.
I plan to revisit, exploring challenges and various perspectives in the future.
The Portuguese Rooster, known as Galo de Barcelos or the Barcelos Rooster, has become one of Portugal’s iconic symbols.
Has it always held such significance? What is its meaning?
When traveling in Portugal, one cannot escape encountering the Galo de Barcelos.
The Galo de Barcelos, also referred to as the Barcelos Rooster or the Portuguese Rooster, goes by several names but symbolizes the same thing.
These roosters can be found not only in souvenir shops offering a variety of items but also in other commercial establishments such as restaurants, bars, and even fashion stores.
In any city or town, Galos de Barcelos are always available for sale, crafted from materials ranging from clay to porcelain to metal.
One notable aspect nowadays is that the majority of those available for sale in Portugal are produced in China or other countries with more economical production methods.
This reflects the globalization phenomenon, from which even the Portuguese Roosters cannot escape.
Most frequently asked questions
Let me address some of the most frequently asked questions I receive about the Galo de Barcelos:
– What does the Rooster of Barcelos, or Portuguese Rooster, symbolize?
– Is there a backstory to the Portuguese Rooster?
– Are they found throughout the country?
– How can one purchase an authentic Portuguese Barcelos Rooster?
I’ll attempt to provide answers to these questions, acknowledging that there may be alternative explanations or stories unknown to me.
I extend an invitation to anyone with differing perspectives or additional stories to share them via email.
On this website, as with all others, whenever I acquire a deeper understanding of the subject, I revisit the article to incorporate updates.
Thus, this website remains a work in progress, open to potential revisions.
The construction of Galo de Barcelos as a national icon is the result of a blend of legend and historical events.
This mixture encompasses the element of time, as both the legend and the historical facts originate from distant periods.
The Legendary Tale of the Portuguese Rooster, also known as the Barcelos Rooster
In the 16th century, two Galician pilgrims journeyed along the Portuguese Way of Santiago, passing through Barcelos and lodging in Barcelinhos, a town across the Cávado River.
The innkeeper, enamored with the younger pilgrim, attempted to seduce him, but he remained steadfast in his pilgrimage.
Enraged by his rejection, she falsely accused him of stealing silver cutlery, leading to his imminent execution by hanging.
Desperate to prove his son’s innocence, the father appealed to the judge, who, while dining on a roasted chicken, demanded proof of innocence: the rooster on his plate must crow.
Miraculously, the roasted bird rose and sang.
Rushing to the gallows, they arrived just in time to witness the boy miraculously saved from hanging, his execution halted by divine intervention attributed to Santiago.
This version, among many, highlights the enduring legend of the Barcelos Rooster.
Note: This legend exists in various versions, with differences in the number of pilgrims, the stolen object, the story’s resolution, and more. I chose this particular rendition for its compelling narrative and captivating elements.
A more concise explanation of the origins of the Rooster of Barcelos, as it is recognized today
In 1931, during the rise of the Estado Novo regime in Portugal, Leitão de Barros, a prominent filmmaker and member of the Organizing Committee of the International Congress of Critique, sought representative gifts for foreign delegates.
Portuguese Rooster, a Portuguese icon
He enlisted the help of Artur Maciel, a knowledgeable Minho journalist, to procure gifts from the Feira de Barcelos.
Maciel purchased clay roosters, richly decorated, spending 400 Escudos, the Portuguese currency at the time.
These roosters were presented to foreign entities at the congress.
António Ferro, a renowned writer and politician overseeing the National Propaganda Secretariat, was impressed and showcased the roosters at an International Fair in Geneva in 1935.
This marked the first significant appearance of the modern Barcelos Rooster as an icon of Portugal.
Subsequently, at the Exhibition of the Portuguese World in 1940, the rooster gained widespread popularity and became a staple in Portuguese households nationwide.
Significance of the Portuguese Rooster
As a Portuguese, rather than a tour guide or a history enthusiast, I find it challenging to articulate the precise meaning of the Rooster of Barcelos.
When encountering a Rooster of Barcelos, thoughts about its significance aren’t typically at the forefront.
However, a Portuguese saying, “The truth always comes out on top,” encapsulates the essence of the Barcelos Rooster in both legend and reality.
In the legend, the unjustly accused boy is miraculously saved, reflecting the theme of truth prevailing.
Moreover, the Rooster symbolizes Portugal’s rural heritage, crafted by skilled artisans, embodying a glimpse into the Portuguese soul.
Despite the complexities of its origin stories, the underlying truth shines through, underscoring the resilience and authenticity inherent in Portuguese culture.
Tips for purchasing an authentic Barcelos Rooster
Throughout history, the Rooster of Barcelos has undergone various transformations, resulting in a plethora of shapes and forms.
Currently, the most popular rendition can be explored on the Barcelos City Hall website, offering valuable insights for selection.
As for purchasing options, it largely depends on your location.
In metropolitan areas, veer away from souvenir shops unless that aligns with your preferences.
To conclude
I trust you found this insight into the Galo de Barcelos, or the Portuguese Rooster, enlightening.
If you have alternate stories or anecdotes, please share them, as tales and legends abound like the grains of sand on a beach.
IMPORTANT: Please send me your best picture of a Galo de Barcelos.
Was the Marquis of Pombal an iron-handed visionary or an Enlightenment despot?
Sebastião José de Carvalho e Melo, count of Oeiras and marquis of Pombal, one of the key players in Portugal’s history, remains a controversial figure.
What is certain is that he wielded relentless power over the country, granted directly by King D. José I, who held him in the highest esteem and regard.
As a dictator, the Marquis of Pombal dismantled the entrenched powers of the old aristocracy surrounding the king and eradicated the considerable influence of the Society of Jesus, the Jesuits.
Sebastião José also modernized universities and initiated measures to abolish slavery.
However, he also executed individuals through dubious trials, employing hanging and brutal methods.
There exists a direct connection between the Douro Valley and the history of the Marquis of Pombal.
How will we assess the Marquis of Pombal?
Even today, scholars debate his actions.
This article doesn’t serve as a historical treatise but rather as a simple chronicle of events to offer insight into Sebastião José de Carvalho e Melo, the Marquis of Pombal.
Put simply, there are two pivotal periods in Portugal’s history where the Marquis of Pombal held prominence:
managing the aftermath of the Great Earthquake of 1755 in Lisbon and subsequently overseeing the city’s reconstruction,
and establishing the world’s first demarcated wine region, the Douro Valley wine region.
However, his influence on the country’s governance extended much further.
He transformed education, disrupted the established power dynamics within the kingdom, and shaped Portugal’s foreign policy, notably impacting Brazil’s exports, among other interventions.
Timeline of the Marquis of Pombal’s Life
To gain insight into this character, I’ll enumerate several events I deem pivotal in his life:
1699: Sebastião José de Carvalho e Melo, later known as the Marquis of Pombal, is born.
1750: Appointed as Secretary of State for Internal Affairs by King Joseph I of Portugal.
1755: Great Lisbon Earthquake devastates the city; Pombal leads the reconstruction efforts and implements significant urban reforms.
1756: Assumes the position of Prime Minister of Portugal, consolidating power and implementing numerous reforms.
1759: Expels the Jesuits from Portugal and its colonies, seizing their assets and influence.
1760: Implements economic policies aimed at modernizing Portugal’s economy and reducing dependency on foreign powers.
1761: Reorganizes the educational system, establishing secular schools and promoting scientific education.
1777: Retires from political life after King Joseph I’s death and the accession of Queen Maria I.
1782: Dies in Pombal, Portugal, at the age of 82.
The Marquis of Pombal’s life was characterized by significant political, social, and economic reforms, making him a central figure in Portuguese history.
Major achievements of the Marquis of Pombal
I’m enumerating only the Marquis of Pombal’s most significant achievements:
Reconstruction efforts and urban reforms following the Great Lisbon Earthquake of 1755.
Consolidation of power as Prime Minister of Portugal, implementing significant administrative and economic reforms.
Expulsion of the Jesuits from Portugal and its colonies, leading to the seizure of their assets and influence.
Modernization of Portugal’s economy through strategic economic policies.
Reorganization of the educational system, promoting secular education and scientific knowledge.
Initiatives to promote Portugal’s independence from foreign powers and enhance national sovereignty.
Advocacy for social reforms and initiatives aimed at improving the welfare of the population.
These achievements established the Marquis of Pombal as a central figure in shaping Portugal’s history and modernization efforts.
Executions, hostilities, and injustices
Throughout this process, he left behind a record of executions, hostilities, and injustices, some of which are outlined below:
Following the uprising in Porto in 1757, authorities hanged, dismembered bodies, and sent people into exile.
The Távora family, accused of attacking the king’s life, faced execution, with their arms and legs broken with a hammer before being burned alive, among other brutal killings.
Numerous individuals were hanged after swift trials for theft of buildings damaged by the Great Earthquake.
Etc, etc.
The statue of King D. José I in Lisbon, commemorating the monarch who elevated the Marquis of Pombal.
How and when did the Marquis of Pombal acquire such immense power?
Some historians concur that Sebastião José truly became the relentless ruler he was during the management of the consequences of the Great Earthquake of 1755.
After the earthquake, King D. José I erected an impressive tent on the outskirts of Lisbon and relocated the entire royal family there, opting not to reside in a brick house again.
Sebastião José remained in Lisbon, overseeing the city’s reconstruction and enforcing punishment for those who did not adhere to his directives. It was from this point onwards that his power began to soar.
In 1759, he was granted the title of Count of Oeiras, and in 1769, he was elevated to the position of Marquis of Pombal.
The Marquis’ decline
In 1777, D. Maria I, the daughter of King D. José I, ascended to the throne as the acclaimed queen of Portugal upon her father’s death.
With King D. José I’s passing, the golden era of the Marquis of Pombal came to an end, marking the beginning of his decline.
The Marquis was promptly banished to his estates, and his trial commenced.
Among the numerous individuals imprisoned during the Marquis of Pombal’s reign and subsequently released was the bishop of Coimbra, who had been incarcerated for approximately ten years for preaching against French humanist teachings.
Despite the charges brought against him, it was not possible to convict the Marquis of Pombal because he possessed written evidence indicating that he had acted on behalf of the king.
In 1782, Sebastião José de Carvalho e Melo passed away on his estate in Pombal.
Can we arrive to a conclusion?
Was he a dictator, a despot, a tyrant?
Undoubtedly controversial.
With his rule, Portugal transitioned from being viewed as a backward and obscure nation to fully embracing the Enlightenment, albeit at the expense of numerous injustices that enriched both the country and himself.
Dictator?
Certainly.
How else should we assess him?
I’m interested in your perspective.
Have a nice day,
David Monteiro
Note: The tours where I talk about the Marquis of Pombal’s life:
