Caminho Velho do Rancho, a must-do walking trail on Madeira, Portugal

Walking trail on Madeira: the Caminho Velho do Rancho, an essential walking trail experience.

Caminho Velho do Rancho, a must-do walking trail on Madeira, Portugal

Almost by chance, I stumbled upon the Caminho Velho do Rancho walking trail on Madeira Island. It was a lucky day.

When I think of walking trails in Madeira, I usually start googling, and the “levadas” trails are most likely at the top of the list.

Walking along the Levadas

Levadas are irrigation canals or aqueducts that you can walk along.

They are pretty famous walks, and I will also write about them.

Other famous hikes include Encumeada, Pico do Areeiro to Pico Ruivo, and several others.

Without a doubt, all these walks are very impressive.

However, when you analyze their locations, you’ll notice they are all in the island’s interior.

Walking trail in Madeira – Caminho Velho do Rancho

Not promoted coastal walking trails

I found nothing interesting while searching for a coastal trail to hike near Funchal, the island capital.

Although I understand that these slopes are steep, that alone isn’t a sufficient reason for the lack of walking trails because they certainly exist.

I can comprehend that my fellow tour operators primarily promote a specific set of trails, like the levadas, causing others to be forgotten.

Walking from Cabo Girão to Lido

Being fond of hiking with sea views, I couldn’t resist visiting Cabo Girão while in Madeira and attempting to return to Funchal, which promised all these elements.

As I prepared for my walk, I found no defined path between Cabo Girão and Funchal, or even to Lido.

The Lido/Funchal section didn’t seem appealing to me for walking.

Despite the absence of a trail and my strong desire to find one, I remained undeterred and decided to explore the area nonetheless.

During the bus journey to Cape Girão, I encountered a gentleman whom, regrettably, I failed to note down his name.

He mentioned he was born and raised in those locales.

This gentleman informed me of a path I could descend from very close to Cape Girão to the entrance of Câmara de Lobos.

The Caminho Velho do Rancho walking trail

I encountered a level of spectacularity beyond my expectations, akin to the wonders depicted in the featured photograph of this text.

The trail, known as “Caminho Velho do Rancho,” is easily located.

Head downhill from Capo Girão towards Câmara de Lobos, keeping as close to the coast as possible, and you’ll find the indications for it.

This path descends sharply amid houses and farmland adorned with corn, strawberries, and various vegetables.

As I descended and gazed at the coastline, I couldn’t help but feel fascinated by the view.

However, navigating the trail isn’t without its challenges.

The slope is so steep that it demands our constant attention, leaving little room for distraction.

Nonetheless, periodic pauses are essential to relish the breathtaking scenery.

This trail is relatively short, with a length of about 1 kilometer and an elevation loss of approximately 200 meters.

Yet, it exudes a rustic charm and offers views fit for royalty.

This duality of characteristics is what lends the walk its allure.

Furthermore, it provides an opportunity to engage with locals without the throngs of tourists often encountered on other trails.

After walking this short trail and along the coast towards Funchal (Lido)

I continued walking along the coast toward Lido after completing the short trail.

I will write about this second part of the morning in another post.

Walking trail on Madeira – Caminho Velho do Rancho

To conclude

The Caminho Velho do Rancho walking trail, is a must-do trail when we go to Madeira.

Have fun.

David Monteiro

March 31, 2020December 2, 2024

Walking from Cape Girao to Lido, Madeira, Portugal

Walking from Cape Girao to Lido, passing through Câmara de Lobos, enables us to explore various locations in Madeira with the tranquility afforded only by walking.

Walking from Cape Girao

Some sites claim that Cabo Girão stands about 580m high, making it the tallest cape in Europe.

Being there, I can readily believe it.

On the glass platform, as we peer down at the small fajãs below, we feel as though we’re hovering—except for the set of dots printed on the glass, which completely spoils that sensation.

Okay, I understand; many people need those dots to alleviate their vertigo.

While these dots exist to mitigate the feeling of vertigo, I believe they also detract from the platform’s intended purpose.

Nevertheless, a visit is still worthwhile.

Walking from Cape Girao starts here

Right here is where this walk begins, leading us down to the bathing area of the Lido.

It’s a 9.5 km trek, primarily downhill, quite demanding on the legs.

Following mostly along the coastal line, this route entails a 650m elevation loss.

The journey commences by guiding us along the Caminho Velho do Rancho, as mentioned in another text.

While it provides an excellent start, the remainder of the walk is no less appealing.

Câmara de Lobos

If Câmara de Lobos is on your list of places to visit in Madeira, then this hike offers an excellent means to accomplish that goal.

During this walk, you’ll traverse through Câmara de Lobos on foot, and like myself, you may choose to pause there for lunch.

Explaining the origin of the name Câmara de Lobos, we can refer to the town’s website:

“In 1419, precisely on July 1st, João Gonçalves Zarco and Tritão Vaz Teixeira anchored at Madeira Island, in the Machico area. Upon their arrival on Madeira Island, they began exploring the southern region. On the first day of exploration, they reached this land, which they named Câmara de Lobos due to the abundant presence of sea lions on the south coast.”

In Portuguese, “Câmara de Lobos” translates to an area, bay, or chamber with wolves.

Also in Portuguese, sea lions are called sea wolves, hence the idea of a sea lion chamber.

The numerous bars and restaurants in Câmara de Lobos offer us the opportunity for lunch, with a variety of options to choose from.

You can indulge in your meal at one of these establishments.

Additionally, a wooded area near the fishing port provides a chance for a brief respite in the shade, perhaps enjoying your sandwich while gazing out at the sea. You’ll find a water faucet there, and the water is potable.

Towards Formosa Beach

A pathway stretches along the coastline from here to the Formosa Beach area, offering a peaceful and highly picturesque stroll with the sea always to our right.

At the onset of Praia Formosa (Formosa Beach), public restrooms are available.

Given its status as a beach area, if you’ve brought bathing gear, you might also enjoy some time on the beach.

Available restaurants

Immediately beyond this point, you’ll encounter an area with several excellent beachside restaurants.

To cater to all tastes, as we say in Portugal, there are two very distinct restaurants available.

One of the restaurants boasts a more sophisticated appearance, featuring modern design and meticulously presented dishes.

In contrast, the other restaurant offers a more approachable atmosphere, with ample terrace seating and, in my opinion, a selection of more authentic options.

Honestly, the first restaurant failed to impress me. Its menu seemed contrived, overly geared towards tourists… not my cup of tea.

The second restaurant, while somewhat modest, exuded a clean and sincere charm.

Upon perusing its menu, I was pleased to find a range of local options tailored to the tastes of the community.

Can you guess which option I chose? I bet you can.

A plate of limpets, a bifana in Bolo do Caco, and a couple of beers were my choices to start… Bingo! Everything was delicious and authentic.

Not familiar with bifana? It’s a pork steak sandwich, highly esteemed in Portugal.

After unwinding at the beach, enjoying a snack, or perhaps both, you can continue your journey by passing through the Bathing Area of Ponta Gorda or Poças do Governador.

Poças do Governador offers paid access to sea swimming pools, making it an excellent spot to while away some time.

The walk concludes at the Lido, an area known for its resorts.

Certainly, one could make less flattering remarks about this bustling hub of tourism activity.

Nevertheless, it’s a relatively small area compared to the expanse of the island, and it’s where the island’s tourism industry initially flourished.

It’s all about finding the right balance, and for me, it seems to strike just that.

From here, you have the option to catch a bus or hail a taxi to Funchal, if need be.

Walking from Cape Girão to Lido, Madeira, offers an opportunity to spend your day actively without exerting yourself too strenuously.

Many of the adventures featured on this website can be arranged through my travel agency at Iberactive.com.

Carpe diem.
David Monteiro

January 20, 2020December 2, 2024

The unknown Madeira’s trail of Vereda da Ponta de São Lourenço (PR8), Portugal

Vereda da Ponta de São Lourenço, Madeira

Discover the Hidden Gem: Vereda da Ponta de São Lourenço

Introduction to Madeira’s Trail

Madeira, the stunning island in Portugal, offers many hiking trails, and the Vereda da Ponta de São Lourenço (PR8) is a unique and unforgettable experience.

Surprisingly, this trail isn’t widely promoted, which adds to its charm and exclusivity.

The Landscape: A Striking Contrast

Madeira is renowned for its green and steep terrain, but Vereda da Ponta de São Lourenço is an exception.

“Vereda” translates to a narrow path, and “ponta” means edge.

The trail presents dramatic cliffs and undulating terrain leading to the island’s farthest edge.

It’s a photographer’s paradise, offering leading lines stretching to the horizon, various textures, saturated colors, and a striking contrast of landscapes.

Popular Trails vs. Vereda da Ponta de São Lourenço

When visitors think of hiking in Madeira, the famous “levadas” or aqueducts come to mind.

Trails like Pico do Areeiro to Pico Ruivo are also high on the list.

These popular hikes offer breathtaking views and are well worth the effort. However, overlooking the PR8 trail would be a mistake.

Despite being less frequently mentioned, it offers an experience that’s equally, if not more, memorable.

Journey to the Trail

Vereda da Ponta de São Lourenço is situated in the eastern part of Madeira, away from the more central, crowded trails.

Arriving at the trailhead, you might be surprised by the number of cars parked there, primarily rentals.

This indicates a higher percentage of foreign visitors, though organized hiking companies are notably absent.

Walking the Trail

Starting the hike, you may feel a sense of disappointment seeing a line of hikers ahead.

If solitude is something you value, this might initially be off-putting.

However, as you proceed, the sheer beauty of the surroundings quickly takes over, making you forget about the crowd.

The trail is easy to follow, well-marked, and visible from a distance, enhancing the overall experience.

A Photographer’s Dream

For photographers, Vereda da Ponta de São Lourenço is a dream come true.

The trail offers endless leading lines, diverse textures, vivid colors, and contrasting landscapes.

The constant shift from wide angles to detailed shots, coupled with the presence of people providing scale, creates a dynamic and visually appealing environment.

The Casa do Sardinha: A Mixed Bag

Near the end of the trail, you’ll encounter Casa do Sardinha, an interpretation center and the only building in the vicinity.

The area around Casa do Sardinha is well-maintained, with picnic tables and an inviting atmosphere. However, there’s a downside.

The sanitary facilities were closed or damaged, causing inconvenience for visitors.

The local authorities might claim ongoing maintenance, but the situation remains unprofessional and frustrating.

Environmental Impact

Despite the trail’s popularity, its impact on the natural surroundings is minimal.

The path itself is well-maintained, ensuring that the rest of the landscape remains untouched.

This balance between accessibility and preservation adds to the trail’s appeal.

Conclusion

In conclusion, Vereda da Ponta de São Lourenço is a hidden gem that should not be missed when visiting Madeira.

Its stunning landscapes, ease of access, and photographic opportunities make it a must-see.

Although minor inconveniences, such as the sanitary facilities, make the overall experience well worth it.

So, lace up your hiking boots, grab your camera, and embark on an adventure to discover one of Madeira’s most beautiful and underrated trails.

Join me

If you’re interested in experiencing this adventure or any other from my repertoire, feel free to contact me via my travel agency, Iberactive

Stay safe, enjoy your time, and show respect for nature.

David Monteiro

January 11, 2020December 2, 2024

Hiking trail from Pico do Areeiro to Pico Ruivo, Madeira

Hiking trail from Pico do Areeiro to Pico Ruivo, Madeira

After much anticipation, I finally accomplished the long-delayed project of completing the hiking trail from Pico do Areeiro to Pico Ruivo on a fabulous day.

The path connecting Pico do Areeiro to Pico Ruivo ranks as one of the most exhilarating and frequently traversed trails by regular hikers exploring Madeira.

Hiking trail from Pico do Areeiro to Pico Ruivo

Pico Ruivo, the highest peak of Madeira‘s archipelago

With an altitude of 1862m, Pico Ruivo stands as the highest peak of Madeira’s archipelago, drawing many hikers to its summit.

However, the path linking these two peaks offers a far more magnificent experience than simply ascending the highest summit.

Walking from Pico do Areeiro to Pico Ruivo presents a landscape that can fill our chests and momentarily steal our breath.

The reconstruction of the walking trail and “what people say.”

I remember hearing about significant improvements made to this trail, making it more accessible.

Some criticized these changes, fearing they would diminish the trail’s charm.

While I cannot speak to how it was before the improvements, based on my experience and old photos, I can imagine what it might have been like.

The enhancements made this mountain trail more accessible to a broader range of people and significantly increased safety levels.

However, this doesn’t negate the need for necessary precautions while using the trail.

Nevertheless, now all hikers, with some practice, can venture onto the trail without significant risk.

Just because the trail has been improved doesn’t mean the world has become smaller in adventure possibilities for adrenaline seekers like myself.

That said, I was pleased with the work done on the track. However, as the saying goes, “There is no beauty without a but,” and the price of this improvement is the crowd.

Like me, countless hikers were on this path, resulting in dense lines at certain points.

Finding moments without anyone passing by wasn’t easy so I could take a picture, but it was still possible.

Despite the crowds, walking this trail was worth it.

Starting the hike

The trail begins from the commercial area of Pico do Areeiro, where visitors can utilize the facilities before their usual coffee break.

Being a bustling and accessible area, it attracts crowds of people, capturing selfies against the backdrop of the landscape, emblematic of modern times.

The starting point of the trail is easily discernible.

Clear day, all peaks visible, steep & rugged terrain adorned with wrinkles & ridges.

As I peer into the valley, my imagination takes flight.

Nestled within some of the valleys ahead lie the famous aqueducts of Madeira.

It fills me with anticipation knowing that in the days to come, I’ll be traversing those aqueducts—an exhilarating prospect.

Certain sections of the trail may pose a challenge for those sensitive to vertigo, although handrails are available to assist.

Portuguese often fall short in maintenance.

It’s disheartening to observe that some handrails are already showing signs of wear and are in need of repair.

Along the route, we pass through four tunnels, with two of them requiring the use of a headlight as they extend into darkness.

At the steepest points, a few steps have been carved out or metal ladders installed to facilitate progress.

A mountain shelter or a bar?

At a particular moment, you reach a house resembling a mountain shelter.

This structure appears abandoned, and while I lack all the details of its story, it pains me to witness such a fascinating building left to decay.

Tourists were asking about the abandoned place, unable to understand the reason.

As an entrepreneur, I couldn’t help but ponder the idea of opening a bar here.

If even half of these people purchased something at this location, it would make for a successful business day, providing excellent service for hikers.

We passed the shelter before ascending the final section towards Pico Ruivo.

Pico Ruivo lies just a few hundred meters beyond the shelter house.

As the saying goes, “the devil is in the details,” and the last leg of the journey is often the most challenging.

At the top

Upon reaching the summit, you encounter an unforgettable 360º view, a dream for any landscape photographer.

You find yourself above the clouds, with a thick blanket of white clouds obscuring everything below on the east side as if nothing else exists.

Other walks from here

Starting from the shelter, there is an intriguing walking trail.

While unfamiliar with this trail, I identified it as the “Vereda do Pico Ruivo” walking path.

I felt a sadness that I couldn’t explore at that moment, but perhaps another time.

To complete

At the highest peak of Madeira Island, I paused to contemplate the landscape.

These tranquil moments are truly priceless.

Being there was perfect.

David Monteiro

PS: The Vereda do Pico do Areeiro walking trail is marked as 5.6 km in length in one direction. Considering everything, I covered 14.5 km with an elevation gain/loss of 957m during this walk.

January 7, 2020December 2, 2024

Walking with grasshoppers’ on Porto Santo island, Portugal

Grassopper at Porto Santo, Madeira, Portugal

Walking with grasshoppers’ on Porto Santo island, Portugal

As I embarked on one of my walks in Porto Santo, Madeira, I never anticipated encountering a multitude of grasshoppers along the way.

Portela's viewpoint at Porto Santo Island, Madeira, Portugal — Portela’s viewpoint at Porto Santo Island, Madeira, Portugal

The walk we did that day

From Portela’s Viewpoint to the Porto dos Frades restaurant, there wasn’t a designated walking path, but we found no necessity for one as we followed a dirt trail toward our destination.

Trusting chance and intuition to guide my steps, I felt at ease to capture photographs along the journey.

Though not towering, the hills of Serra de Fora presented a windy terrain under a promising weather forecast despite the arid surroundings untouched by rain for quite some time.

The landscape, adorned with golden straws, resembled the Alentejo region, while the reddish, stony land and scattered houses evoked memories of São Vicente in Cape Verde.

Surprisingly, the area was devoid of tourists or fellow hikers. Passing cars regarded our presence with curious glances, indicating the rarity of walkers in the area.

Grasshopper at Porto Santo, Madeira, Portugal

Grasshoppers, an unexpected spectacle

Yet, as we approached, the most unexpected spectacle awaited us—an eruption of thousands of grasshoppers launching into flight, blending seamlessly with the golden backdrop.

Their sizable forms, resembling adult fingers in length, added a touch of whimsy to our journey. Intrigued, I ventured closer to observe them in their natural habitat, unaware of their presence on Porto Santo island until I delved into research later on.

As it turned out, these grasshoppers had been swept in by African winds, posing potential threats to crops elsewhere.

Though unaware of any agricultural repercussions on the island, their lively presence became a charming aspect of our stay, accompanying us throughout our visit.

Windmill, Porto Santo, Madeira, Portugal

Now, reminiscing about walks in Porto Santo invokes images of grasshoppers in mid-air, a delightful reminder of the unexpected marvels found in nature’s embrace.

David Monteiro

December 11, 2019December 2, 2024

Ana Ferreira summit, at Porto Santo Island, Portugal

Ana Ferreira summit, Porto Santo, Madeira

Ana Ferreira summit, at Porto Santo Island, Portugal

Allow me to introduce you to Pico Ana Ferreira summit at Porto Santo, Madeira.

This summit captured my attention during a bus ride around the island and became a “must-go” destination before its official identification.

Porto Santo island offers more than just sun and beach, as advertisers often overlook.

Upon arrival, I actively sought out single trails, finding them marked and easy to navigate without any ambiguity.

The walk entails minimal elevation changes yet provides an impressive panoramic view that captivates those with hiking and orienteering experience.

This summit, often overlooked in travel literature, invites geologists and photography enthusiasts to discover its hidden wonders firsthand.

Interesting rock formation at Ana Ferreira summit, Porto Santo, Madeira

How do you get there?

I boarded a bus from the center of Vila Baleira to Calheta.

The route to the summit became evident after disembarking near the São Pedro Chapel.

For geology enthusiasts, I recommend briefly explaining the area’s unique rock formations here.

Photography enthusiasts will appreciate the less commonly photographed view of Porto Santo from this vantage point.

The descent followed a straightforward path, leading me to the opposite side of the ascent, towards Calheta.

In Calheta, I indulged in some photography, with the option of enjoying a swim at the lovely beach and relaxing on a beautiful terrace with a well-deserved beer and snacks.

The rock formation you will find at Ana Ferreira summit

The Ana Ferreira Peak is the highest point in the western part of Porto Santo island, standing at an altitude of 283 meters.

At its peak, a spectacular array of prismatic columns develops, formed by volcanic activities thousands of years ago.

the above text is from Wikipedia

The rock we will find there is called mugearite.

The mugearite formed from intermediate-composition magma that evolved through differentiation in a magma chamber located at a certain depth beneath the current crest.

The cooling of the magma occurred slowly within the conduit (dyke) that fed the volcano and primarily took place in two directions: sub-vertical and sub-horizontal. This resulted in a spectacular columnar (or prismatic) jointing with extensive pentagonal/hexagonal cross-section columns.

the above text can be found here.

Carpe Diem.

David Monteiro

December 4, 2019December 2, 2024

The cable car to Fajã da Quebrada Nova, Madeira, Portugal

The cable car to Fajã Quebrada, Madeira, Portugal

On a windy day, experience an unforgettable ride on the cable car connecting Achadas da Cruz with Fajã da Quebrada Nova in Madeira if you enjoy strong emotions.

It is an unforgettable experience.

Exploring Madeira Island’s Cable Car Systems

In Madeira, you can enhance your experience by using the cable car to gain different vantage points.

As far as I know, there are two cable cars on Madeira Island.

- Funchal Cable Car (Teleférico do Funchal): This cable car system operates in Funchal, the capital city of Madeira. It connects the city center to the hilltop parish of Monte, offering panoramic views of the city and the surrounding landscape.
- Achadas da Cruz Cable Car: Located on the north coast of Madeira, this cable car system provides access to the village of Achadas da Cruz and its famous sea cliffs.

Riding cable cars is enjoyable.

We board a small glazed cabin with a pole at its rear, connected to a wire, and ascend and descend the slope.

Along the journey, we capture some photos, express our amazement with “ahh”s… it’s a delightful moment.

Such experiences are always filled with fun.

The Achadas da Cruz to Fajã da Quebrada Nova Cable Car

However, the cable car to Fajã Quedrada Nova stands out in its own category.

Known as the Achadas da Cruz Cable Car, it links the aforementioned village to the top of the cliff and descends to Fajã da Quebrada Nova below.

On a windy day, this cable car accelerates your heartbeat with its mighty winds.

Everything sways and trembles.

The ride transforms into more of a rollercoaster experience than merely a means of descending to the fajã.

Don’t miss out on this unforgettable experience.

Fajã da Quebrada, Madeira, Portugal — Fajã da Quebrada Nova, Madeira, Portugal

About Fajã da Quebrada Nova

At Fajã da Quebrada Nova, we discover a charming little spot.

The village is meticulously maintained, featuring a seaside promenade offering delightful views of the town.

Can you imagine the isolation these people suffered before the construction of the cable car?

The sole path connecting this place to the outside world was incredibly steep.

Enduring the isolation was challenging, alongside the monumental human and animal efforts required to come and go from here.

On the cliff faces, remnants of former waterfalls are visible, now dried up.

Elderly residents sadly reminisce about the diverted water sources and lament having to pay for what was once freely and abundantly available.

This is a subject I will have to investigate another time.

The return journey involves another thrilling swing adventure inside the glass cabin.

What a spectacular place.

David Monteiro