Cruzinha to Ponta do Sol walking trail, Santo Antão, Cape Verde

The Cruzinha to Ponta do Sol walking trail offers one of the best walking experiences in Santo Antão island, Cape Verde.

The winding trail guides us around hidden parts of the island, revealing its beauty.

Heading up to Cruzinha

The car journey to Cruzinha felt interminable, casting doubt on our destination. Fortunately, the GPS confirmed our route.

The 25-kilometer drive from Ribeira Grande to Cruzinha took nearly an hour, but it was well spent, offering more photo opportunities than moments to pause.

As we traversed the landscape, we encountered places where travelers typically pause to appreciate the local customs and people’s uniqueness.

As a Cape Verdean with familial ties to the island, I felt a constant familiarity.

I was torn between the desire to commence the walk and the urge to pause at every intriguing moment.

Witnessing a blacksmith at work made me reflect on the passage of time.

With remarkable precision, they repurpose old metal for new uses.

In this region, tools are scarce, and imported equipment remains prohibitively expensive for the locals.

This route guides us through remote and ancient parts of the island, where new houses are scarce.

One visual issue plaguing the island is the absence of plaster on building exteriors, lending localities a degraded appearance.

This problem extends beyond this island to Cape Verde, as I discovered during my travels.

About Cruzinha

Cruzinha, nestled on the rugged coast of Santo Antão island, captivates with its remote charm and timeless beauty.

Surrounded by dramatic cliffs and the restless sea, this tranquil village boasts traditional architecture and a peaceful atmosphere.

With its lack of modern developments, Cruzinha offers an authentic glimpse into Cape Verdean life, inviting visitors to unwind and immerse themselves in its untouched splendor.

Cruzinha, with its lack of new houses, remains unaffected by this issue. Its remote location serves as both a burden and a boon.

The walking trail

The path begins near the harbor, following the cliff’s edge.

The trail remains unmistakable despite the rough sea and idle fishing boats awaiting better conditions.

Our walk commences on a well-maintained cobblestone road, though my hope for a sunny day was dampened by stubborn fog.

Despite its exposure to the sea, the trail’s enduring quality suggests meticulous initial construction.

I invite you to peruse the photos accompanying this narrative for a visual depiction of the trail, sparing you from repetitive adjectives like “gorgeous,” “amazing,” or “impressive.”

The distance between Cruzinha and Ponta do Sol spans 15.5 km, with most elevation gain concentrated between Corvo and Fontainhas.

This stretch encompasses a total elevation gain of 780m, with 625m occurring within this section.

En route, a stop at Formiga offers a chance to replenish supplies at a couple of bars before continuing toward Corvo and Fontainhas, two quaint villages preceding Ponta do Sol.

Fontainhas, Santo Antão, Cape Verde

Persistent fog enveloped us as we journeyed, obscuring the clear skies ideal for photography.

Nonetheless, I cherish the memories of this exhilarating trail—one of the most captivating I’ve experienced.

Wishing you many enjoyable walks,

David Monteiro

February 26, 2024December 2, 2024

Cova’s walking trail, the volcano at Santo Antão, Cape Verde

Cova's walking trail connecting to Paul Valley

Cova’s walking trail, the volcano at Santo Antão, Cape Verde

While in Santo Antão, Cape Verde, completing the Cova’s walking trail was one of my objectives.

However, I had not yet decided whether to walk it downhill or uphill.

Ultimately, I chose the uphill route because walking downhill tends to strain my knees.

So, I will describe the walk from Cabo da Ribeira to Cova.

The hike between Cova and Cabo da Ribeira in Santo Antão, Cape Verde, is probably the most famous walk on the island.

Cova's walking trail — Cova’s walking trail

Let’s embark on the Cabo da Ribeira to Cova walking trail

As the taxi neared Cabo da Ribeira, situated at the top of the Paúl Valley, I grasped why the locals had advised me against walking uphill from Cova to Cabo da Ribeira, contrary to my preference.

Before me lay the daunting 750-meter ascent from Paul to Cova.

It appeared both challenging and time-consuming, yet unalterable at that moment.

Our driver, Neu, jokingly queried us one last time about our chosen course of action, cautioning, “It might be difficult.”

Having previously researched these trails, such warnings came as no surprise.

Mentally prepared for the arduous task, I anticipated encountering a few fellow travelers.

As I veered off the road, a trail information sign reiterated details I was already acquainted with.

Nonetheless, it was heartening to note Cape Verde’s investment in trail information infrastructure.

During the ascent, we briefly shared the path with a handful of intriguing companions.

A young lad confidently rode a donkey, seemingly unperturbed by the task.

Additionally, a cheerful young couple ascended with evident enjoyment and mutual understanding.

Much of the trail consisted of either dirt or cobblestone paving, with terrain that was uneven yet manageable without excessively tall steps, facilitating both uphill and downhill travel.

Although occasional steeper sections posed potential challenges, especially in wet conditions, the region’s infrequent rainfall and scarcity of water mitigated such concerns.

Progressing steadily uphill, we encountered numerous groups of hikers accompanied by local guides descending from their adventures.

Walking from Cabo de Ribeira to Cova, Santo Antão, Cape Verde

Opportunities for landscape photography

This trail provides numerous opportunities for landscape photography.

However, on that specific day, thick clouds obscured the view, and within moments, the weather deteriorated, completely obscuring my visibility.

The long cobblestone road

The long cobblestone road, depicted in the attached photos, extends on a winding path.

Constructing this centuries-old road was no easy feat when it was initially built.

As I observed it, my mind swirled with thoughts, envisioning the immense effort required to undertake such a monumental task in a country with limited resources like this one.

Undoubtedly, the construction of this road relied heavily on the manual labor of countless Cape Verdeans and the assistance of donkeys transporting materials to remote locations.I express my gratitude to all who contributed to this remarkable endeavor.

Here, we have time on our side

Despite having a schedule to maintain and acknowledging the physical effort required to ascend this walking trail, one can still experience a sense of serenity here.

Time, an abundant resource in this place, is a precious commodity essential for life’s pleasures.

In this environment, there is little rush for nearly anything, mirroring the likely unhurried approach taken in constructing this path.

This walking trail occupies a prominent place in my mind

My maternal family hails from these valleys, specifically the Paul Valley.

As a child, I often heard my parents and uncles discussing this trail as an incredibly challenging endeavor.

Ascending this trail now serves as a tribute to those memories.

Enjoy the walk and photos.

David Monteiro

February 23, 2024December 2, 2024

Ribeira da Torre walking trail, Santo Antão, Cabo Verde

Ribeira da Torre walking trail, Santo Antão, Cape Verde

Ribeira da Torre walking trail, Santo Antão, Cabo Verde

The Ribeira da Torre walking trail fascinated me and ranked among the most beautiful trails I knew in Santo Antão, Cape Verde. However, I found it challenging to walk downhill or uphill.

On the day I tackled it, I hiked the Cabo de Ribeira to Cova trail in the morning, enjoyed a pleasant lunch, and then set out on this trail in the afternoon.

I wouldn’t recommend following my footsteps due to the intense afternoon heat. Nevertheless, given my time constraints, I had no other option.

The beginning of the Ribeira da Torre Walking trail

After relishing a delightful lunch, I set out on my journey.I’ll have to detail that lunch in another post.

Locating the beginning of the trail posed a bit of a challenge.

It took a couple of attempts on similar tracks before I finally found the right one—the one I had been aiming for, naturally.

This path served as the only possible connection with the other side of the valley, originating from Ribeira Grande valley.

From our vantage point at the top, we could see the steep descent to the valley bottom.

It was nearly a 5km downhill journey to reach the end of the valley. But what made it even more daunting was the 1200m of elevation loss we had to navigate.

Nevertheless, the breathtaking view over the Ribeira da Torre valley will forever be etched in my memory as a highlight of my hiking experiences.

Anyone with some walking experience and physical preparation would have found it hard to resist the allure of this scenery.

Challenge accepted.

The Ribeira da Torre walking trail

The Ribeira da Torre walking trail spanned a total of 8km, featuring a diverse terrain with 1300m of elevation loss and 160m of elevation gain.

After lunch, I ventured to an area with relay antennas and explored the surroundings, adding to the overall length of the walk.

In total, I estimated I covered about 2 km before beginning the descent.

The start of the walk presented steep and rugged terrain. Peering down almost vertically, I pondered how to navigate the descent.

Thankfully, steps carved into the rocks provided a solution, offering a more manageable alternative to descending on extremely steep trails.

These steps, though, seemed tailored for giants; even as a tall and naturally long-legged person, I found them challenging. Meanwhile, my hiking companion grumbled with each step.

The descent felt endless, and fatigue became a constant companion

Some sections of the trail offered breathtaking views, resembling balconies jutting out from the slope, while others resembled cobblestone pathways winding along the contours.

Eventually, we reached a flatter area, forming a platform amidst the long descent. Here, we encountered a plantation area teeming with life.

I observed potatoes, cassava, various vegetables, and a stream of water—a source of vitality in this picturesque landscape.

Xoxô

From the top of the valley, I observed the cluster of houses making up the little village named Xoxô.

Beside the village, a majestic rocky pillar stood proudly, towering over the landscape. Its somewhat phallic appearance caught my eye.

I couldn’t shake the thought of the isolation in which these people lived. However, the beauty of the entire scene overwhelmed me.

As I traversed the village, a group of children joyfully surrounded me.

It was clear that we were the highlight of their day, and I couldn’t resist capturing some photos of them.

Interestingly, they weren’t particularly interested in seeing the photos; rather, they were thrilled to be photographed themselves.

The trail was a dream come true for every walker.

Ribeira da Torre, Santo Antão, Cape Verde

The end of the rail

As I approached the end of the walk, fond memories filled me.

In the distance, I spotted the road, and there stood our driver, who had organized our logistical support.

Without Neu, accomplishing these walks would have been impossible, or a logistical nightmare.

I was already yearning to relax and rest. At the trail’s end, I anticipated nothing less than extraordinary.

I was intoxicated by the beauty surrounding me.

Perhaps this sense of relaxation was the perfect mood to prepare me for the delightful scenery I was about to enjoy.

Here is where the Ribeira da Torre Valley joins the Ribeira Grande Valley. It was an area of rainwater accumulation.

The road was elevated a couple of meters to prevent it from being submerged during floods.

If this road were to be cut off, the population of Xoxô would become isolated because it is the only access point by car.

On both sides of the road, numerous plantations added a unique green hue to the landscape, with yams standing out prominently.

This scenario served as a dessert for the photographer who had just completed a dream walk.

David Monteiro

December 13, 2019December 2, 2024

Tarrafal of São Nicolau, São Nicolau Island, Cape Verde

Tarrafal night view, São Nicolau Island, Cape Verde

Tarrafal of São Nicolau, São Nicolau Island, Cape Verde

Tarrafal, situated on São Nicolau island in Cape Verde, boasts its bay that overlooks the sea.

The town is remarkably tranquil, with serene surroundings that offer a sense of peace and calm that envelop visitors upon arrival.

The soothing sound of waves crashing against the shore and the sun’s warm embrace contribute to its tranquil atmosphere.

Tarrafal: A Cursed Name

In the collective memory of the Portuguese, Tarrafal carries a cursed reputation.

However, it’s essential to distinguish this town from the infamous one on Santiago Island.

Although they share the same name, this Tarrafal is on a different island and offers a peaceful ambiance.

About this Tarrafal

Describing it as sweet and quiet would be apt.

What’s lesser known is that this town also served as a deportation site, albeit never experiencing the severity witnessed in Tarrafal on Santiago Island.

With a population estimated between 5000 and 6000 inhabitants, this town is the second most populous area on the island, following Ribeira Brava, the capital.

Life in Tarrafal moves at a leisurely pace, promoting a healthy lifestyle.

Instead of rushing for tomorrow, people embrace the present, ensuring each hour consists of sixty minutes.

The town’s layout directs attention towards the sea, with its streets leading to the harbor and town center, which are nearby.

How to get there

Located at the opposite end of the island from Preguiça Airport and the capital, the journey from the airport to this town can be disorienting due to the lack of straight roads, resembling more of a meandering route.

One must traverse the surrounding mountains to reach Tarrafal from Ribeira Brava Village.

The most efficient mode of transportation to Tarrafal, whether from the airport or Ribeira Brava, is via “Eace,” the local taxis.

“Eace,” or Hiace

The local name for the Toyota Hiace is Eace.

Photography

Approaching Tarrafal from these heights, I instantly realized I’d need to return to capture the village at sunset; it felt inevitable.

The town’s high temperatures lend its sunsets a reddish-blue to purplish-orange hue.

Also, the low velocity of the wind enables one to capture striking contrast photos.

Hidden jewel

Despite a black sand beach, it doesn’t seem to draw many visitors – in truth, there aren’t many people around.

However, there’s a sense that the town awaits the influx of tourists once they discover this hidden paradise.

I hope that day remains far off.

I intend to savor this place to the fullest extent possible.

Have fun,

David Monteiro

December 1, 2019December 2, 2024

The walk to D Amelia Lighthouse, Sao Vicente, Cape Verde

On a hiking trip in São Vicente, Cape Verde, you must explore the trail leading to the D. Amelia Lighthouse, starting near São Pedro, the local fishing community.

São Pedro

From Cesária Évora Airport, São Pedro village catches the eye through the plane’s window.

The tranquil fishing community watches as curious visitors set out on their walks.

Besides fishing, São Pedro offers ample opportunities for observing turtles drawn to the area by abundant marine life.

Embarking on the Trail: Seeking the Starting Point

I head towards the trail opposite the beach hotel, where the firm sand and breathtaking landscapes await.

Foya Branca, the beach resort, attracts windsurfers and kitesurfers with its bustling activity.

The marked trail guides us towards the lighthouse, visible from the beach.

Although internet searches yielded limited information about D. Amélia Lighthouse, Wikipedia provided some insights.

Dona Amelia Lighthouse

“Farol de D. Amélia (also: farol da ponta Machado, Ponta Machado Lighthouse) is a lighthouse in the southwestern point of the island of São Vicente in northwestern Cape Verde. It lies 3 km west of the village of São Pedro. The lighthouse is a white square tower with a lantern and a gallery, 14 m high. The lighthouse was completed in 1894” in Wikipedia

The walking trail

With the trail well-defined, I focused on capturing stunning photographs.

With the trail clearly visible, I immersed myself in photography.

My fingers couldn’t cease snapping shots.

Despite the harsh light, I relentlessly captured one panoramic photo after another.

The sun directly overhead posed a challenge, yet I savored every moment of the experience.

The walk spans 7 km with minimal elevation gain, featuring mixed terrain of dirt trails and sandy beaches.

A delightful walk.

David Monteiro

November 29, 2019December 2, 2024

Hiking the Pico Pequeno at Fogo Island, Cape Verde

The ascent to Pico Pequeno on Fogo Island, in Cape Verde, was an excellent surprise.

The hike, initially unremarkable, turned out to be pleasantly surprising with stunning views and unique geological features.

Before the preparation

Before proceeding with this text, I have to explain the following:

- Chã das Caldeiras is a village located in the crater of the large volcano on Fogo Island, at approximately 2000 meters above sea level, where I planned to stay for two nights.
- Pico Pequeno is a small volcanic cone that, like Chã das Caldeiras, is located within the crater of the island’s large volcano and where the lava resulting from the 2014 eruption was expelled.

During the preparation

My main goal in staying two nights in Cha das Caldeiras was to ascend the Pico Grande volcano at 2829 meters.

I would increase the chances of this ascent by staying in Cha das Caldeiras for two nights.

Thus, I would have three days and two nights, and spending one day on the ascent of Pico Grande, two days would remain to fill.

I decided that the hike to the top of Pico Pequeno would take place on the first day since it was between the point where the taxi would drop us off and Cha das Caldeiras.

The trail to ascend Pico Pequeno

The trail to ascend Pico Pequeno starts where the old road that gave access to Cha das Caldeiras ends.

Nowadays, this road is unusable because it was interrupted by three meters of lava expelled during the 2014 eruption.

There is no technical difficulty to consider in this ascent. The trail is clear and constantly and gradually uphill.

When we reach the top of this volcanic cone, we have to surround it from the top if we want to go to Cha das Caldeiras and/or if we want to have a privileged view into the volcanic cone from where the aforementioned lava was expelled.

At the highest point, there were two aspects that caught my attention and that I had not anticipated:

- the beautiful rock formations rich in sulfur,
- and the secondary volcanic reactions manifested through the release of vapors so hot that it made it impossible to sit on the ground to have a snack.

Named Pico Pequeno, this peak makes the nearby large volcano appear gigantic when viewed from here.

Nevertheless, as we are at an altitude that allows us to have a wide view of the large crater.

The descent, although steep and requiring extra attention, does not present major difficulties.

The trail is approximately 6.5 kilometers long with 300 meters of accumulated positive elevation gain.

If you have the opportunity to hike here, I hope you enjoy it.

Carpe diem,

David Monteiro

Fogo Island, Cape Verde

Its designation as "Pequeno" (small or short) is in reference to the immense size and stature of the main volcano.

Fogo Island, Cape Verde

The trail is relatively straightforward and lacks any significant technical challenges.

Fogo Island, Cape Verde

The lava expelled during the 2014 eruption now blankets the old road to Chã das Caldeiras.

Fogo Island, Cape Verde

A sight of Chã das Caldeiras.

Fogo Island, Cape Verde

Capture photographs of the Pico Pequeno trail for this article.

Fogo Island, Cape Verde

Sulfur on rocks lends captivating hues.

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November 28, 2019December 2, 2024

Laginha at sunset, Mindelo, Cape Verde

Laginha Beach, Mindelo's tranquil oasis, sundown serenity.

Laginha at sunset, Mindelo, Cape Verde

Laginha Beach, located in Mindelo, São Vicente, Cape Verde, isn’t just another beach destination—it’s an experience, especially at sunset.

Amidst the golden hour, there’s an undeniable allure that captivates visitors.

Laginha at sunset

Forget the clichés; the magic of this beach at sunset is palpable.

An inexplicable sensation envelops you as the warm waters gently lap against the shore and the sun gracefully dips behind Mount Cara.

The promise of post-swim drinks only adds to the enchantment.

Google “Laginha” and you’ll be inundated with images, though most capture its splendor in daylight.

But it’s at sunset when this beach truly shines.

The beach is serene as the day’s warmth gives way to a gentle coolness, and the relentless wind relents, offering moments of tranquil stillness.

Gather your friends and family

Groups of locals, seemingly rooted to the spot, epitomize Laginha’s carefree spirit. Life unfolds before them, oblivious to the outside world.

Meanwhile, from the shoreline, the twinkling lights of nearby terraces beckon, signaling the start of an evening filled with fried moray and ice-cold beers.

Simple pleasures

Indeed, Laginha epitomizes life’s simple pleasures—a reminder that amidst the chaos, there are moments of pure bliss waiting to be savored.

And as the sun sets over this idyllic beach, casting a warm glow over its sands, one can’t help but feel grateful for such moments of serenity in an ever-changing world.

Music

Laginha Beach in São Vicente, Cape Verde, resonates with vibrant music.

Local musicians infuse the air with rhythmic beats and soulful melodies, reflecting the island’s rich musical heritage.

From traditional morna to lively coladeira, the sounds of São Vicente add to the beach’s allure, creating a harmonious atmosphere.

Have fun,

David Monteiro

November 28, 2019December 2, 2024

Walking along the coast at Santo Antão, Cape Verde

There is a walk from Cruzinha to Ponta do Sol along the cliff over the sea.

This is one of the best we can have in Santo Antão island.

The winding trail seems to lead us around part of the island.

The ride to Cruzinha by car took us so long I start to doubt if we were going to the right place.

Fortunatly, the GPS confirmed our route as right.

From Ribeira Grande to Cruzinha it’s 25Km by a road that takes almost an hour’s drive.

However, it is a decent hour spent, with more picture opportunities than time to stop.

We crossed places where any traveler wants to stop and appreciate the uniqueness of people and customs.

Being a Cape Verdean and being the home island of much of my family, I feel a constant familiarity.

I began to get lost in the duality between wanting to start the walk and the need I have to stop at every moment.

A blacksmith … how long there haven’t been blacksmiths working like in the old days?

Here, with high skilled precision, old metal is used for new usages.

Around here, tools are scarce, and imported equipment is too expensive for these people’s pockets.

This route takes us to remote and old areas of the island where there are few new houses.

One of the visual problems of the island is the lack of plaster on the exteriors of the buildings. That gives a degrading look to the localities.

Later, during my travels in Cape Verde, I realized it is an overall problem of the country and not only from this island.

Cruzinha has almost no new houses, so it doesn’t suffer from this problem.

Its remote location is both its cross and its blessing.

The path to follow goes along the cliff and starts near the harbor.

The sea was a bit rough, and the fishing boats were waiting for a better opportunity to go catch some fish.

The trail is evident, one can’t miss it.

A well-maintained cobblestone road marks the start of our walk.

I wanted to have a bright day, but the fog was not cooping with me.

You can easily understand we were walking on a path long ago made.

Being so exposed to the sea and still in such good shape can only mean it was initially very well done.

You better see the photos I’m leaving here to understand how the trail is. Otherwise, I will be repeating adjectives like gorgeous, amazing, or impressive.

It is 15.5 km between Cruzinha and Ponta do Sol.

The elevation gain is concentrated almost entirely in a specific passage, between Corvo and Fontainhas.

The trail has a total of 780m of elevation gain, of which 625m are in the referred section.

We have to walk at least halfway to get to Formiga where you can find have a couple of bars where to buy some food and drinks.

After Formiga you will find Corvo and Fontainhas, two tiny villages before reaching Ponta do Sol.

About Fontainhas it is good to read the following:

https://viajes.nationalgeographic.com.es/a/10-pueblos-mejores-vistas-mundo_9109/2

The landscape needs no explanation. Just see the photos.

A resistant fog joined during the walk.

Photos with clear skies will have to wait for a better occasion.

Until then, I keep the memories of one of the most exciting trails I know.

Good walks,

David Monteiro

Santo Antão Island