Douro Valley hiking trail between Pinhão and Provesende, Portugal
Contrary to our initial expectations, the task of locating a predefined hiking trail in the Douro Valley proves to be a notably challenging endeavor.
Two significant factors contribute significantly to this challenge:
Firstly, the majority of these spectacular areas are privately owned, limiting accessibility.
Secondly, the breathtaking steep terrains, though aesthetically pleasing, prove to be unsuitable for leisurely walks.
Nevertheless, a fortuitous alignment of circumstances has fortuitously led to the creation of an enchanting hiking trail connecting Provesende to Pinhão via São Cristóvão.
Embark on this captivating trail for an intimate and up-close stroll through the renowned vineyards, representing a true highlight of the Douro Valley.
As you traverse this mesmerizing landscape, seize the opportunity to capture breathtaking photographs reminiscent of those prominently featured in tourist catalogs, showcasing the UNESCO-designated World Heritage Site.
Adding further allure to this scenic journey, various fruit trees, particularly fig and quince, strategically adorn different points along the way, enhancing the overall experience.
As you approach Pinhão from Provesende, the upper part of São Cristovão unfolds, with majestic almond trees gracefully lining the route.
Casa do Santo and phylloxera
While local brochures meticulously detail the points of interest in Provesende and Pinhão, one standout gem is Casa do Santo.
Casa do Santo, an 18th-century marvel owned by Joaquim Pinheiro de Azevedo Leite Pereira, carries profound historical significance.
In the 1870s and 1880s, Pereira played a pivotal role in a group of researchers who ingeniously discovered a method to combat the spread of phylloxera in Europe.
The Casa stands as a testament to both architectural grandeur and a pivotal chapter in viticulture history.
In a nutshell, phylloxera wreaked havoc on European wine production in the late 19th century, marking a critical turning point in viticultural history.
The walking trail
The trail, categorized as a crossing, facilitates traversal from Provesende to Pinhão or vice versa, providing a flexible exploration option.
Despite my inclination towards uphill walks, in this particular case, descending from Provesende to Pinhão offers a visually stunning experience, with the majestic Douro River in constant view.
Commence your trail exploration in Provesende, starting on the right side facing the church.
For those seeking more detailed information, it is highly advisable to consult the Provesende tourist information office.
Exercise caution, particularly in São Cristóvão after rain, as surfaces may become slippery.
Walk attentively and consider using walking poles for added stability during your enchanting journey.
Hiking trail from Provesende to Pinhão, Douro Valley, Portugal
Douro wine villages
Provesende is one of six wine villages in the Douro, potentially appealing for future visits.
For more information about the Douro Wine Villages, press here.
Have fun,
David Monteiro
Please check here for more information and check the map bellow.
Where is the Douro Valley Demarcated Wine Region located?
Exploring the internationally renowned Douro Valley Demarcated Wine Region, this text unveils its picturesque location.
Originating in Spain’s Sierra de Urbion, the Douro River intricately carves through the valley, eventually meeting the Atlantic near Porto, the city synonymous with “Port Wine.”
Zooming in, the Douro Valley Demarcated Wine Region emerges as a distinctive section of this captivating landscape.
The Douro River’s impressive span of 897km (557mi) encompasses diverse stretches:
with 572km (355mi) in Spain,
112km (70mi) in international territory (Portugal and Spain),
and 213km (132mi) in Portugal (approximate measures).
Focusing on the Demarcated Wine Region’s specific location, it thrives in Portugal, spanning approximately 120 km (75mi) between Barca d’Alva and Barqueiros (Mesão Frio).
Beyond the river valley, the region expands, covering 250,000 hectares in northeastern Portugal, a fact underscored by the Portuguese Wine Club.
Within this extensive area, around 45,000 hectares of vineyards stretch along the Douro River and its tributaries, weaving through the Marão and Montemuro mountains to Barca de Alva.
How to access the Douro Valley from Porto?
To access the Douro Valley from Porto, a scenic route by train is a popular choice.
Departing from São Bento Station in Porto, the train journey unfolds picturesque landscapes.
It traverses vineyard-clad hills and the meandering Douro River, culminating in the heart of the valley
Alternatively, road travel offers flexibility, with a drive taking around 1.5 to 2 hours.
What about accessing the Douro Valley from Lisbon?
From Lisbon, the quickest way is by air.
There are daily flights to Porto or Vila Real.
Alternatively, a train journey from Lisbon to Porto followed by a scenic train ride to the Douro Valley. It provides an immersive travel experience through Portugal’s diverse terrain.
A happy group walking in the Douro Valley, Portugal
Dirt trails or tarred roads when walking in the Douro Valley?
Despite my usual preference for dirt trails, this tarred road provided a unique exception, presenting an uncrowded and breathtaking view.
During the grape harvest, occasional trucks may disrupt, yet the overwhelming scenery renders any inconvenience negligible.
While walks typically seek intimate contact with nature, exceptions, as noted by Fernando Pessoa, unfold their intrinsic worth.
The route, a one-mile uphill road to a viewpoint, served as a warm-up, each walker pacing themselves.
Douro Valley, Portugal
The view over Quinta Nova
Beyond the viewpoint, the walk to Quinta Nova resembled a slow descent on a long valley balcony, with the Douro River flowing below and distant peaks resembling the teeth of a saw.
Despite the current warmth, the clear view, capturing all the peaks on the horizon, retained the cold air from the previous night.
Continuing the journey, the Douro River seemed to suspend time, contributing to an extensive photo collection.
Despite the sunny warmth, nobody lingered in the shade, sensing that the challenging hot days were yet to come.
Beyond the distant landscapes, beauty lay in the proximity of strawberry and almond trees blossoming in March.
As some clients paused at an ideal curve, I exclaimed, “Quinta Nova!” framed in a biblical landscape.
Reaching Quinta Nova’s gate, oleanders welcomed us with their sweet fragrance.
Despite the short walk, diverse stimuli drained participants’ energies, yet they reserved enough for exclamations at the fabulous hotel—a perfect end to a memorable journey.
In shared glances with fellow journeyers, it was evident that collectively, we had transcended the essence of a mere walk on this extraordinary day in the Douro Valley.
To gain a comprehensive understanding of the geographical context in which both Port and Douro wines thrive, I extend an invitation for you to consult this detailed map.
As hinted in the aforementioned article, just before the emergence of Port wine in its present form, there existed a distinct type known as fortified table wine. I won’t delve into the details of this precursor in this post.
With that clarification, let’s delve into the contemporary realm of Port wine as it exists nowadays.
However, it’s essential to note that in the Douro Valley, you’ll encounter both Port wine and Douro wines.
In summary,
Port wine is a fortified wine, and
Douro wine is either still or table wine, depending on your preferred terminology.
For the scope of this post, our primary focus will be on exploring the nuances of Port wine.
Quinta do Crasto Portwine storage, in the Douro Valley, Portugal
The most important grape varieties
Take a moment to check on the labels of Portwine in a supermarket or liquor store.
Upon inspecting the section where grape varieties are listed, you’ll observe that they are the same grapes used in the production of Douro wines.
Naturally, it’s important to acknowledge that while the exact grape varieties may not be identical in every case, after reviewing several labels, you’ll discern the most commonly employed grapes for crafting both Port and Douro wines.
For red wines: Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinto Cão, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Amarela, and Sousão.
For white wines: Códega, Malvasia Fina, Gouveio, Rabigato, Moscatel Galego Branco, and Viosinho.
These grape varieties listed above represent the predominant choices for winemaking across the Douro Valley.
In essence, this implies that both Portwine and Douro wines often share the same grape varieties in their production.
If Portwine and Douro wines are made from the same grapes, what makes these wines to be so different?
The answer lies in the production method.
In a simplified manner, the production of Douro wine follows a series of steps, much like the majority of still wines: harvest -> stomping -> fermentation -> maturation -> bottling.
However, the process takes a distinct turn for Port wine just a couple of days into fermentation.
While the fermentation of Douro wine typically spans six to seven days, the trajectory for Portwine is markedly different.
In the production of Portwine, we deviate from the norm by halting the fermentation process after two or three days, and adding wine spirits.
Throughout this article, I will delve into the criteria for determining the optimal moment to cease fermentation and guide you on the appropriate quantity of wine spirits to incorporate.
Why stop the fermentation?
By halting the fermentation process and introducing wine spirits, we achieve the following:
A naturally sweet wine, relying solely on the sugar from grapes without the need for additional sugars.
A wine with an alcohol content ranging between 19 and 22 degrees (1), achieved through the incorporation of high-quality 77% wine spirits.
Note (1): An exception is noted for a specific type of white Port with 16.5% alcohol.
There exist various types of Portwine, each adhering to its unique production “formula” to achieve the final product we savor.
Here are some insights on determining when to cease fermentation, considering the varying sweetness levels:
For Extra Dry Port (White), fermentation stops when sugar concentration falls below 40g/liter.
Very Sweet Port (White) requires a sugar concentration exceeding 130g/liter.
Most Port wines (Red) typically exhibit a sugar concentration during fermentation between 90 and 130g/liter, with a common range of 100 to 120g/liter.
As fermentation progresses, sugar concentration decreases. The longer the fermentation, the more sugar transforms into alcohol, resulting in lower sugar concentration.
Regarding the addition of wine spirits to the fermented product:
Most barrels, with a 550-liter capacity, see the addition of 115 liters of wine spirits for every 435 liters of fermenting wine, culminating in a final 550-liter product.
Since 2012, the range for adding wine spirits varies from 60 to 120 liters.
The introduction of wine spirits prompts the cessation of yeast fermentation in the wine.
Having done this, do we have Portwine?
This marks the initial phase in the creation of Portwine. However, depending on the specific type of Port we aim to produce, there are additional crucial steps to consider.
Now, let’s delve into the distinctive characteristics of various types of Portwine, seizing the opportunity to elucidate their unique qualities.
Portwine barrel, named “balseiro” in Portuguese
The types of Portwine.
If you conduct an internet search on the various types of Portwine, most articles typically categorize them as Ruby, Tawny, and White.
However, I’d like to take a distinctive approach: Rose or Pink, White, and Red.
There’s a reason behind this choice.
This isn’t a technical article but rather an entertaining one. Based on my experience, I’ve found that people grasp the information more effectively when we begin the explanation from the very basics.
So, let’s embark on this journey from the start.
Rosé Portwine (Pink)
It stands alone without any subcategories.
Crafted from red grapes but with minimal contact with the grape skins during a gentle maceration process.
These wines are best enjoyed in their youth, and, in my view, served at cooler temperatures, ideally between 8 and 10 degrees Celsius.
Rosé Portwine is a versatile choice, often utilized in cocktails or simply served over ice.
To the best of my knowledge, the inaugural Rosé Port to hit the market was Croft Pink, introduced at the onset of the 21st century.
White Portwine
Typically crafted from white grapes, White Portwine offers various subcategories: very dry or extra dry, dry, half-dry, sweet, and ‘lágrima’ (tear), also known as very sweet.
Traditionally, White Portwine is expected to be consumed relatively young, with two to three years of maturation in 20,000-liter barrels or larger, marking the readiness for consumption.
However, contemporary practices have seen some White Port Wines aging for extended periods, reaching the excellence of their well-aged red counterparts.
An intriguing note: as White Portwine ages, it transforms into an amber hue, akin to its aged red counterparts.
White Portwine serves as an exceptional choice for appetizers. Consider pairing a White Portwine, such as Lágrima from Ramos Pinto, with a ‘wedding’—a fig with an almond inside—for an exquisite tasting experience.
In modern times, the trend of enjoying Port Tonics has emerged. This refreshing long drink involves blending ⅓ Extra Dry White Port with ⅔ tonic water, ice, lemon, and a peppermint leaf—a truly top-notch combination. Explore various recipes for this drink, savor the flavors, and share your favorite!
Red Portwine
I’ve saved the discussion on red Portwines for last, as they warrant more extensive and intricate explanations.
Red Port Wines can be broadly categorized into two families: Ruby and Tawny.
All other designations of red Port wines stem from these foundational classifications.
Ruby
Ruby wines, known for a solid red color, mature in large ‘balseiros’ for two to three years. These barrels, resembling half barrels on short legs, hold 20,000 to 125,000 liters.
The slow oxidation in ‘balseiros’ maintains the intense red hue, preventing an undesirable brownish color. Analogous to an apple browning upon exposure, wine undergoes a similar process over time, transitioning from red to brownish or dark amber.
Within the Ruby family, special subcategories like Ruby, Reserva, Late Bottled Vintage (LBV), and Vintage exist. While other subcategories exist, two will be briefly explained without overextending.
Vintage (Ruby)
It’s the highest-rated Portwine, produced from exceptional grapes of a single year, often aging for years or even centuries.
Vintage Port matures for two to three years in a ‘balseiro’ before bottling, containing sediments aiding further evolution.
For optimal taste, it’s advisable to wait three to four years post-bottling before consumption. The history of Vintage intertwines with bottle design evolution, beginning in the 18th century.
If seeking a Portwine for aging, Vintage is a natural choice, pairing excellently with dark chocolate, sharp cheeses, and melon.
LBV – Late Bottled Vintage (Ruby)
Named for being declared vintage but bottled later than regular Vintage, LBV wines often match Vintage quality.
LBV spends four to six years in a vat before bottling. Contrary to Vintage, LBV can be consumed immediately post-bottling but also ages well.
These wines offer Vintage-like quality (almost), ready for immediate consumption, a benefit over waiting for Vintages.
As of my knowledge, Taylor pioneered LBV in 1970, using wines from the 1965 harvest, inspiring other brands.
Tawny
These wines age in oak casks, initially in large barrels for around four years, then in 550-liter barrels for heightened oxidation.
Tawny ports are identifiable by the label, often indicating aging years like 10, 20, or 30.
Tawnys result from blending various lots, showcasing the advertised age characteristics. Despite the label inscription, it signifies the blend’s average age.
Due to slow oxidation, Tawnys exhibit a paler, brownish, or amber color compared to ruby wines.
Old Tawnies are among the priciest Ports. Once bought, Tawny is ready for immediate consumption.
Younger Tawnys make great aperitifs, while older ones pair well with dried fruits, chocolate desserts, cheeses, or just by themselves.
If you have a 30 or 40-year-old Tawny, savor it without distractions. Pause, relax with a friend, and relish.
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I aimed to offer an overview of Portwine, yet topics like:
a little more history of each of the wines and estates;
how does a wine become a vintage;
the importance of the wine-spirits in the Portwine;
the differences between brandy and wine-spirits;
Portwine and the Portuguese culture;
and so much more.
Future posts will delve into these themes.
Carpe Diem
David Monteiro
Websites where you can learn more about Douro wine and Portwine:
Background of the Douro Valley wine region, Portugal
The Douro Valley’s origin, development, and the birth of Port wine constitute a brief yet fascinating history.
What prompted the emergence of the Douro Valley wine region?
It began over 300 years ago.
Despite its youth, the Douro Valley, with vineyards, Port wine, and farms, holds cultural significance.
For Portugal, a nation rich in ancient structures, three centuries hardly classify as old.
Blame Colbert, Louis XIV’s Finance Minister, for initiating the world’s significant mountainous wine region in 1667.
Now, let’s delve into the repercussions of Colbert’s decision and its impact on the region’s evolution.
The Douro Valley and its vineyards and terraces
A brief history of the Douro Valley wine region. The oldest demarcated wine region in the world
In 1667, the Devolution War strained France and England’s relations, adding to their historical conflicts.
This war’s involvement extended beyond Spain and France, drawing in additional countries.
Amid escalating tensions, Jean-Baptiste Colbert, Louis XIV’s Finance Minister, imposed a blockade on English imports.
As expected, Charles II retaliated, imposing stringent restrictions on French products entering England, particularly limiting wine imports.
Consequently, French wine faced a ban from entering British territory, pushing England to seek alternative wine sources.
By the 17th century, England and Portugal’s longstanding relationship, established since the Treaty of Windsor in 1386, became pivotal.
In Viana do Castelo, Portugal, English and Scottish merchants, among others, thrived before the rupture between France and England.
The strained relations prompted the English and Scots, based in Viana do Castelo, to seize an opportunity—exporting Portuguese wines to England.
The first wines to be shipped out
Initially, the shipped wine hailed from the Vinho Verde region, known as the “Portuguese red,” a light and spicy wine.
However, this variety didn’t resonate with the English, accustomed to fuller-bodied, fruity French wines.
To meet demand, merchants turned to the Douro Valley, where a wine, later known as Port wine, became the solution.
Yet, this story does not delve into the Port Wine we recognize today.
With a suitable table wine found in the Douro Valley, merchants faced the challenge of transporting it to Viana do Castelo.
For those unfamiliar with the geography, the Douro Valley concludes at Porto, where the river meets the Atlantic Ocean. Viana do Castelo lies 40 minutes north of Porto.
In the 17th century, supplying wine to Viana do Castelo meant laborious tasks:
1) Transport the barrels along the river Douro until Porto;
2) In Porto, the process involved transferring wine barrels from riverboats to a vessel capable of coastally transporting them to Viana do Castelo;
3) In Viana do Castelo, the barrels were transferred to another ship for transportation to England.
To streamline, merchants moved cellars from Viana do Castelo to Porto, specifically to Vila Nova de Gaia.
Shipping from Porto led to the designation of Port Wine, with the oldest recorded export dating back to 1678.
By 1710, most Viana do Castelo merchants relocated their cellars to Vila Nova de Gaia.
To preserve wine during the trip to England, merchants added spirit, a precursor to fortifying Port wine.
Claims credit the English for Port’s “invention,” yet this fortification process differed from the Portuguese navigators’ 15th-century method.
Did I just say that the English invented Port wine?
Well, well, well:
The process of fortifying this wine differs from the later and current fortification methods used today.
Moreover, to the best of my knowledge, Portuguese navigators in the 15th century had already employed a similar fortification method.
So, the claim appears unsubstantiated.
Returning to the narrative, wine traded for cod gained momentum in 1703 with the Treaty of Methuen—a substantial trade agreement between Portugal and England.
The treaty introduced preferential tariffs for Portuguese wines in England, reciprocated by preferential tariffs on English textiles imported to Portugal.
However, it is essential to note that this agreement faced dissent in Portugal, a topic warranting a separate post.
During this period, brandy was consistently added to wines before shipment, meeting the rising demand in England.
However, the surge in demand led to nefarious practices.
Merchants, attempting to mimic Port, resorted to adding various ingredients like elderberry juice, battery sugar, and pepper to inferior wines.
This deceptive behavior inflicted severe harm on the wine trade, a cornerstone of Portuguese exports.
Consequently, all stakeholders in the wine industry experienced a drastic decline in prices due to fraudulent practices.
His efforts aimed to elevate Portuguese wine to unprecedented levels of quality and recognition.
Allow me to provide some context on Sebastião José de Carvalho e Melo. Following his triumphant response to the Great Earthquake of 1755, he garnered immense power and earned the king’s confidence.
The “Companhia Geral de Agricultura”
In 1756, the Marquis of Pombal established the Companhia Geral de Agricultura e Vinhas do Alto Douro, a state-owned monopoly company. Through this entity, Pombal gained control over the Port wine trade with England and Brazil.
The Marquis of Pombal implemented a forceful but effective strategy: all wine bound for England and Brazil had to pass through the Companhia Geral de Agricultura e Vinhas do Alto Douro.
This company, under Pombal’s control, not only regulated sales prices but also ensured:
– The enhancement of product quality.
– The demarcation of the wine region.
– The profitability of the entire wine trade’s value chain.
Demarcation of the Douro Valley wine region
Pombal simultaneously established the Company and demarcated the Douro Valley wine region, marked by 335 granite pillars.
This demarcation specified the region responsible for providing grapes for Port wine production.
These 335 granite pillars, erected in two phases (201 in 1756 and 134 in 1761), declare the Douro Valley as the world’s oldest demarcated wine region.
In 1757, a survey classified Douro’s vineyards. Quality determined the wine’s fate:
Exceptional quality meant export as “feitoria” wines.
Lower quality destined wines for domestic consumption, termed branch wines.
Today, wine fortification involves adding brandy to halt fermentation, resulting in sweeter Port wines with higher alcohol content than traditional wines.
For deeper insights into Port wine and its production, feel free to explore further by pressinghere.
The widespread adoption of this fortification method began in the latter half of the 18th century, taking nearly a century to gain universal acceptance.
To my knowledge, the first Vintage Port dates back to 1775. However, the definitive turning point came with the 1820 harvest, showcasing modern fortification techniques and unprecedented quality.
The Douro Valley, classified by UNESCO as Worldwide Heritage
Classification of the Douro Valley Wine Region as World Heritage Site by UNESCO
Reflecting on the notion that Colbert’s actions initiated this process, one might jest that the French minister’s measures in 1667 ultimately led to the Douro Valley earning World Heritage Site status in 2001.
Indeed, UNESCO acknowledged 24,600 hectares of the Douro Valley as a World Heritage Site in that year.
Though said in jest, envision the colossal domino effect from 1667 to 2001, connecting pivotal events:
Disruption of France-England trade, initiating Portuguese wine export to England.
Shifting wine trade from Viana do Castelo to Vila Nova de Gaia in the 17th century.
Commencing the sale of Douro Valley wines.
Constructing terraces in the Douro Valley.
Since 1667, remarkable human interventions shaped the Douro Valley, capturing our attention and creating the extraordinary landscape we appreciate today.
The Douro Valley is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the first demarcated wine region in the world
The terraces
Before concluding, an integral aspect of the Valley deserves recognition—the terraces.
Over time, the Douro Valley underwent a transformative journey with the construction of these terraces.
In the present day, terraces form an inseparable part of the Valley, bestowing a unique character upon its landscape.
Though vineyards have adorned the Douro Valley since ancient times—dating back to Roman occupation—their commercial planting emerged only in the 16th century.
Picture the pre-17th century landscape, characterized by slopes covered in cereal fields. Today, our gaze extends across vineyards, neatly arranged in terraces, creating a captivating horizon.
The Douro Valley extending beyond the wine region
The Douro Valley, outside the wine region
Consider exploring the segment of the Douro Valley lying beyond the demarcated wine region.
Contrast this area with the wine-producing region—where vineyards extend across the hills as far as the eye can see.
In contrast, the non-classified Douro Valley boasts greater biodiversity, smaller farms, and a distinct, breathtaking beauty. It’s a visit worth making.
Thus, while we appreciate the Douro Valley landscape, the terraces stand out the most. But who built them?
The origins remain unclear, but before the 17th century, people began constructing terraces.
Detailed records exist for farm (quinta) construction, but terrace development lacks documentation.
Terraces seemed to emerge naturally in the landscape, crafted by hand, mainly by men and children since women didn’t participate then.
Many terrace builders, called “Gallegos,” were Galicians.
Sadly, their names were never recorded, yet their contribution shaped the Douro Valley’s landscape.
Finishing
With this text, I aim to lay the groundwork for understanding the Douro Valley’s inception.
I plan to revisit, exploring challenges and various perspectives in the future.
Was the Marquis of Pombal an iron-handed visionary or an Enlightenment despot?
Sebastião José de Carvalho e Melo, count of Oeiras and marquis of Pombal, one of the key players in Portugal’s history, remains a controversial figure.
What is certain is that he wielded relentless power over the country, granted directly by King D. José I, who held him in the highest esteem and regard.
As a dictator, the Marquis of Pombal dismantled the entrenched powers of the old aristocracy surrounding the king and eradicated the considerable influence of the Society of Jesus, the Jesuits.
Sebastião José also modernized universities and initiated measures to abolish slavery.
However, he also executed individuals through dubious trials, employing hanging and brutal methods.
There exists a direct connection between the Douro Valley and the history of the Marquis of Pombal.
How will we assess the Marquis of Pombal?
Even today, scholars debate his actions.
This article doesn’t serve as a historical treatise but rather as a simple chronicle of events to offer insight into Sebastião José de Carvalho e Melo, the Marquis of Pombal.
Put simply, there are two pivotal periods in Portugal’s history where the Marquis of Pombal held prominence:
managing the aftermath of the Great Earthquake of 1755 in Lisbon and subsequently overseeing the city’s reconstruction,
and establishing the world’s first demarcated wine region, the Douro Valley wine region.
However, his influence on the country’s governance extended much further.
He transformed education, disrupted the established power dynamics within the kingdom, and shaped Portugal’s foreign policy, notably impacting Brazil’s exports, among other interventions.
Timeline of the Marquis of Pombal’s Life
To gain insight into this character, I’ll enumerate several events I deem pivotal in his life:
1699: Sebastião José de Carvalho e Melo, later known as the Marquis of Pombal, is born.
1750: Appointed as Secretary of State for Internal Affairs by King Joseph I of Portugal.
1755: Great Lisbon Earthquake devastates the city; Pombal leads the reconstruction efforts and implements significant urban reforms.
1756: Assumes the position of Prime Minister of Portugal, consolidating power and implementing numerous reforms.
1759: Expels the Jesuits from Portugal and its colonies, seizing their assets and influence.
1760: Implements economic policies aimed at modernizing Portugal’s economy and reducing dependency on foreign powers.
1761: Reorganizes the educational system, establishing secular schools and promoting scientific education.
1777: Retires from political life after King Joseph I’s death and the accession of Queen Maria I.
1782: Dies in Pombal, Portugal, at the age of 82.
The Marquis of Pombal’s life was characterized by significant political, social, and economic reforms, making him a central figure in Portuguese history.
Major achievements of the Marquis of Pombal
I’m enumerating only the Marquis of Pombal’s most significant achievements:
Reconstruction efforts and urban reforms following the Great Lisbon Earthquake of 1755.
Consolidation of power as Prime Minister of Portugal, implementing significant administrative and economic reforms.
Expulsion of the Jesuits from Portugal and its colonies, leading to the seizure of their assets and influence.
Modernization of Portugal’s economy through strategic economic policies.
Reorganization of the educational system, promoting secular education and scientific knowledge.
Initiatives to promote Portugal’s independence from foreign powers and enhance national sovereignty.
Advocacy for social reforms and initiatives aimed at improving the welfare of the population.
These achievements established the Marquis of Pombal as a central figure in shaping Portugal’s history and modernization efforts.
Executions, hostilities, and injustices
Throughout this process, he left behind a record of executions, hostilities, and injustices, some of which are outlined below:
Following the uprising in Porto in 1757, authorities hanged, dismembered bodies, and sent people into exile.
The Távora family, accused of attacking the king’s life, faced execution, with their arms and legs broken with a hammer before being burned alive, among other brutal killings.
Numerous individuals were hanged after swift trials for theft of buildings damaged by the Great Earthquake.
Etc, etc.
The statue of King D. José I in Lisbon, commemorating the monarch who elevated the Marquis of Pombal.
How and when did the Marquis of Pombal acquire such immense power?
Some historians concur that Sebastião José truly became the relentless ruler he was during the management of the consequences of the Great Earthquake of 1755.
After the earthquake, King D. José I erected an impressive tent on the outskirts of Lisbon and relocated the entire royal family there, opting not to reside in a brick house again.
Sebastião José remained in Lisbon, overseeing the city’s reconstruction and enforcing punishment for those who did not adhere to his directives. It was from this point onwards that his power began to soar.
In 1759, he was granted the title of Count of Oeiras, and in 1769, he was elevated to the position of Marquis of Pombal.
The Marquis’ decline
In 1777, D. Maria I, the daughter of King D. José I, ascended to the throne as the acclaimed queen of Portugal upon her father’s death.
With King D. José I’s passing, the golden era of the Marquis of Pombal came to an end, marking the beginning of his decline.
The Marquis was promptly banished to his estates, and his trial commenced.
Among the numerous individuals imprisoned during the Marquis of Pombal’s reign and subsequently released was the bishop of Coimbra, who had been incarcerated for approximately ten years for preaching against French humanist teachings.
Despite the charges brought against him, it was not possible to convict the Marquis of Pombal because he possessed written evidence indicating that he had acted on behalf of the king.
In 1782, Sebastião José de Carvalho e Melo passed away on his estate in Pombal.
Can we arrive to a conclusion?
Was he a dictator, a despot, a tyrant?
Undoubtedly controversial.
With his rule, Portugal transitioned from being viewed as a backward and obscure nation to fully embracing the Enlightenment, albeit at the expense of numerous injustices that enriched both the country and himself.
Dictator?
Certainly.
How else should we assess him?
I’m interested in your perspective.
Have a nice day,
David Monteiro
Note: The tours where I talk about the Marquis of Pombal’s life:
Barco Rabelo, the traditional Douro riverboat, Portugal
Please follow me on this tour
Embarking on a Rabelo boat, a classic wooden vessel in the Douro Valley, is an essential activity during your visit.
In my line of work, the continuous enjoyment of fantastic experiences is a key perk.
While some experiences may lose their allure over time, Rabelo boat trips upstream of Pinhão defy this trend.
It is crucial to clarify that I specifically focus on Rabelo boat excursions upstream of Pinhão, distinct from those near Porto.
Pinhão, seen from a Rabelo boat ride, Douro Valley, Portugal
Pinhão earns its reputation as the heart of Port wine for two compelling reasons:
Many renowned Port wine producers are located in this vicinity.
Pinhão served as a pivotal hub where Rabelo boats loaded wine barrels destined for Vila Nova de Gaia’s warehouses.
Now, let me elucidate why riverboat tours in Pinhão surpass those in front of Porto:
The river here is narrower, enhancing the sense of intimacy.
There’s a noticeable scarcity of boats compared to downstream areas.
The entire region enjoys UNESCO’s World Heritage status, providing a picturesque setting.
More than just the boat ride
In my Douro Valley tours, especially during Rabelo boat trips, I make it a point to include lunch on board whenever possible—a truly fantastic experience.
Repeating this experience never grows old; no Douro tour has left me indifferent.
Rabelo boat. the Douro Valley’s traditional wooden boat.
The old Rabelo boats, now tourist vessels, preserve their historic charm.
Some had an active role in transporting wine, letting us relive Douro River history.
A one or two-hour trip is always tranquil.
Pinhão, nestled between the Valeira Dam and Custuma-Lever Dam, offers calm waters for smooth sailing.
Occasionally, large vessels disrupt the tranquility, though fortunately, this is a rare occurrence.
During the boat tour, we observe vine-covered farmhouses on terraced hillsides, classified as UNESCO World Heritage. Seasonal variations bring distinct colors—autumn’s golds, copper, and reds, or spring’s pink almond blossoms.
Douro Valley, Portugal, UNESCO Worldwide Heritage
Lunch, a diverse, practical, and tasty picnic, is served on the boat, accompanied by the region’s famed Douro wines.
Touriga Nacional, a renowned grape in the region, crafts exceptional wines now recognized beyond the Douro.
The two-hour Rabelo boat ride is always swiftly enjoyed, invoking a desire for repetition.
Today’s memorable experience contrasts with the perilous past—wooden boats navigating turbulent rivers, transporting wine barrels from Douro Valley to Porto.
This serene journey stands in stark contrast to the tumultuous past, where navigating these waters was akin to whitewater rafting with laden wooden boats before the installation of dams.
Some other sources about the Rabelo boat
To provide you with a more comprehensive view, I’ve chosen two videos. Although they have minor issues, they offer insight into what I mentioned.
The first video, dated 1923, showcases Rabelo boats journeying both downstream to Porto and upstream. Regrettably, it’s a silent film.
The second is an extraordinary documentary, rich in captivating details, particularly about how these sturdy boats navigated upstream. Unfortunately, there’s no English version available. Nevertheless, I believe it’s worth watching, and if we ever view it together, I can provide explanations if needed.
The Douro Valley train ride. Is it worth experiencing? Absolutely!
It offers an iconic experience with breathtaking mountain views and serene river scenes.
This train line, officially known as the Linha do Douro, has a rich history dating back to its inauguration in 1887.
Built initially for transporting goods, especially Port wine barrels, the railway played a vital role in the Douro Valley‘s economic development.
The train line stretches along the scenic Douro River, connecting Porto to Pocinho.
Over the years, the Douro Valley train line evolved into a major transportation route, fostering both industrial and touristic activities.
The picturesque journey became famous for its breathtaking views of terraced vineyards, charming villages, and the meandering Douro River.
Despite challenges, the Douro Valley train line remains iconic, drawing tourists for a unique and scenic experience.
The train, though not modern, carries a charming patina.
Let’s envision two scenarios:
You’re exploring Porto and wish to embark on this train ride independently.
Alternatively, you’re part of one of my tours, where a Douro Valley train ride is included.
Douro Valley train ride
Enjoying a Douro Valley train ride on your own, from Porto
You can plan to visit Porto on your own and from there, take a train to visit the Douro Valley.
Yet, if you plan to indulge in this dream independently during your stay in Porto, relying solely on public transportation, you may encounter some challenges.
Consider the sequence of train stations: Porto São Bento, Régua, Pinhão, Pocinho.
The most thrilling section of the Douro Valley lies between Pinhão and Pocinho, encompassing the final third of the 3h20m journey.
Four or five daily trains run each way.
Opt for the 9:10 or 12:55 train from Porto São Bento to Pocinho, returning to Porto at 18:50 or 20:55, respectively—a full-day endeavor.
A cold night at Quinta da Marka, Douro Valley, Portugal
At Quinta da Marka, in the Douro Valley, the chill in my arms hovered between desire and discomfort.
Yet, the serene night’s silence and tranquility held me captive on the balcony.
The wicker chair’s cozy cushions aided my endurance, but bougainvillea petals danced on the breeze, countering my solitude.
The day, now a distant memory, had been unusually warm for late March.
Alone at Quinta da Marka, I relished the solitude.
Despite the daytime warmth, the night embraced a pleasant chill.
The clear sky unveiled constellations, barely obscured by the moonlight. In the corner of my vision, dim lights hinted at the living room’s stillness.
Perhaps I should have turned off all the lights, but the distant dots of light, like Quinta Nova, lingered.
Quinta do Crasto, hidden behind me, remained unseen from the balcony, existing as a reassuring presence.
I pondered dimming the room lights, now imagining the beauty of the enveloping darkness.
The living room’s sparse lighting only hinted at its traditional, comforting decor.
Nestled into the cushioned haven, my eyes grew heavy, embracing the weight of impending sleep.
Earlier that day, upon reaching Quinta Nova with the complete group of guests, I yielded my room to accommodate an unexpected last-minute guest at Quinta Nova. Consequently, I arranged to stay at Quinta da Marka for the subsequent two nights.
Quinta Nova’s allure is undeniable. However, the isolation and possibility for some peace of mind, made Quinta da Marka an ideal alternative.
The day had unfolded spectacularly, with seamless walks, guided tours, and a lively dinner marked by passionate conversations.
Despite the usual and natural demands, positive customers, moderate weather, and flawless details marked the rare and harmonious alignment of stars.
Resisting thoughts of the upcoming day, I yearned only to drift into slumber beneath the stars’ watchful gaze.
